AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
That sucks. I haven’t ever had to replace on except on my truck.
Tell me the truth...
- Thread starter doublebase
- Start date
- Joined
- Oct 19, 2020
- Messages
- 777
I suppose its cheaper to manufacture a combined slave cylinder/throwout bearing than two separate pieces, but it sure is a lot of work to replace a slave cylinder inside the bell housing. Especially considering hydraulic slave cylinders are common failure items, at least in my experience.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Yeah the one on my truck is hydraulic. The original lasted 30 years so wasn’t too bad. They manufacture those cheaper than charge the customer double LOL.
We’ve got a civic in the family which is around 375k.
dealer warranty repaired wiring harness due to inop backup lights
alternator around 200k
head gasket around 350
aftermarket oem-type headlight assemblies due to hazing
it was my mom’s, and is now my brother‘s. It may have had an AC compressor in there somewhere. I started putting amsoil in the AT at some poin.
besides that, just oil, brakes, tires.
dealer warranty repaired wiring harness due to inop backup lights
alternator around 200k
head gasket around 350
aftermarket oem-type headlight assemblies due to hazing
it was my mom’s, and is now my brother‘s. It may have had an AC compressor in there somewhere. I started putting amsoil in the AT at some poin.
besides that, just oil, brakes, tires.
My 2015 1.0L Focus is sitting at 203K miles. No oil burning noticed at all and all the regular things that I would expect that needed to be replaced at my mileage. Here's what I've had to get done outside of normal fluid changes:
Waterpump ~30K miles (warrantied)
Starter ~ 160K miles
Flywheel/Clutch assembly ~ 180K miles
Wheel bearing ~ 196K miles - I had to replace the outer tie rod too because I screwed up the threads. I did the serp belt at the same time but nothing was wrong with the old one.
Forgot to add a couple of evap purge valve, but those are only $60 and 30 minutes. Oh, and engine mount.
Waterpump ~30K miles (warrantied)
Starter ~ 160K miles
Flywheel/Clutch assembly ~ 180K miles
Wheel bearing ~ 196K miles - I had to replace the outer tie rod too because I screwed up the threads. I did the serp belt at the same time but nothing was wrong with the old one.
Forgot to add a couple of evap purge valve, but those are only $60 and 30 minutes. Oh, and engine mount.
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99 GS400, 344k mi
Motor mounts, 2 timing belt services, lower ball joints & caster arms, couple alternators & batteries, on 2nd starter, upstream O2s changed once, lower intake gaskets (probably from over-tightening intake bolts during starter swap), fuel pump, chills couple transmission drain & refills, on 3rd set of dampers - KYB slightly lowered with Eibach springs. Few other random things. This sled is easy to drive & easy to wrench on
Motor mounts, 2 timing belt services, lower ball joints & caster arms, couple alternators & batteries, on 2nd starter, upstream O2s changed once, lower intake gaskets (probably from over-tightening intake bolts during starter swap), fuel pump, chills couple transmission drain & refills, on 3rd set of dampers - KYB slightly lowered with Eibach springs. Few other random things. This sled is easy to drive & easy to wrench on
1uz- that’s impressive, that GS400 really hasn’t asked for much at all. Did you find the kybs improved or harshened the ride?
To be fair...There aren't many transmissions easier to pull than the 5 speed in 2wd Ford Rangers & the Mazda B-clones. In my prime.....I could pull one in 15-20 minutes.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
That’s great. Glad to hear it’s somewhat easy to pull. I haven’t done a whole lot of transmission work in my time but I have pulled a few and installed a few but it was with assistance at school. One of them was a classic beetle like I have because my teacher had several of them. I think we had that one out in about 45 minutes because you can’t hardly find any tools at that place because they just get thrown everywhere.
Well....Your Mazda B2200 is all Mazda.....Not a rebadged Ford Ranger like the later B2300/B3000/B4000.
AutoMechanic
Site Donor 2025
Yeah that is true. It’s not extremely hard to work on not sure how a transmission removal would go in it.
Number of times I replaced those same items in 606k miles on my Mazda:
0 engine mounts
2? mufflers
0 Two charcoal canisters
0 Two EVAP vent solenoids
1 EGR valve
0 [non-power] steering rack
1½ Front calipers
0 fuel lines [except one section]
0 brake lines
0 gas tank
0 front subframe
0 V-Tec solenoid
0 Sway bar links front and back twice
0 Sway bar bushings five times
1 Front axles
0 Upper control arms front
1½ lower ball joints front
2 Radiator
2 Struts front
1 Outer tie rods
0 Brake hoses front [did change rear ones]
Plus a few more things that would take me a while to remember or look up, most of them after 300k.
0 engine mounts
2? mufflers
0 Two charcoal canisters
0 Two EVAP vent solenoids
1 EGR valve
0 [non-power] steering rack
1½ Front calipers
0 fuel lines [except one section]
0 brake lines
0 gas tank
0 front subframe
0 V-Tec solenoid
0 Sway bar links front and back twice
0 Sway bar bushings five times
1 Front axles
0 Upper control arms front
1½ lower ball joints front
2 Radiator
2 Struts front
1 Outer tie rods
0 Brake hoses front [did change rear ones]
Plus a few more things that would take me a while to remember or look up, most of them after 300k.
'87 VW Golf GL est. 530,000miles (these all had odometer issues from the start)
main fuel pump & relay
timing belt/tensioner 5X
rear brake shoes 5X
front pads 7X
windshield 3X
tires 6X
radiator 3X
heater core (to 'undo' the VW recall, they never swapped the original, pressure checked I guess then filled with blackgoo that plugged it 2 years later.....?
three am/fm radios (one cassette, one CD player, one mp3 player) time marches on......
wheel bearings front: 3X
wheel bearings rear: 3X
muffler1X
front seats swapped out, tired
motor /trans mounts, all three
fuel filter 6X
fuel lift pump 2X
>>engine, changed out for Pikn'Pull special, 3rd rod was blued for lack of oil flow, the crank drilling was coked up blocked about 65%.
Seeing as the head & shortblock ran $96.00, cheaper than clean/ de-carbonizing the old unit with 315k on it. Also that third rod was BLUE.
>>trans was serviced with 3 quart flush & filter screen every 70k. Direct clutches (3) burnt out along with brake band. Required less than $150 in seal kit & brake band & three friction discs to get it mobile again. Ran 100k plus, diaphragm spring in Forward clutch failed, $2.85 part took out all forward gears, but not reverse. Another $150 in rubber clad seals, (diaphragm spring broke into three pieces & nicked the forward seal)
including ATF fluid. Three friction discs for Forward Clutch as well.
starter3X
CV axles 2X
CV axle reboot, 2X
alternator3X, plus 3 voltage regulators (the contact brushes inside wear out)
window regulators 2X, driver's door (just overuse) & one rear door unit, (corrosion, poor cable protection)
blower motor 2X
parking brake cables 1X
headlight switch 3X
seatbelt (1), driver' side (original was getting shredded on the leading edge, these came with belts that extend to the door, even as you open it. )
struts, 1X, all four.
balljoints 1X
tierods 1X
oxygen sensor 8X the GL has a dedicated odo box that triggers the change light every 60k)
throttle cable 1X
kickdown cable 1X (it's actually the throttle cable from the foot throttle to transmission bell crank)
differential seals 1X
Final Drive & torque converter are original. FD gear oil has been drained & filled 3X.
The driver's door had an issue last year, the lower attachment point was tearing out of the sheet metal door structure, they used assembly
epoxy at the factory in Mexico & it held so well that it proved stronger than the surrounding sheet. Through bolted the lower hinge hole
& fitted a grade 8 5/8" bolt through it, and sandwiched it back together with a wide washer & a CV axle spider hub to brace it to the door skin
interior. Door now closes correctly instead of sagging when unlatched & opened. < I though this flaw might take it off the road for good, but NO. : l
main fuel pump & relay
timing belt/tensioner 5X
rear brake shoes 5X
front pads 7X
windshield 3X
tires 6X
radiator 3X
heater core (to 'undo' the VW recall, they never swapped the original, pressure checked I guess then filled with blackgoo that plugged it 2 years later.....?
three am/fm radios (one cassette, one CD player, one mp3 player) time marches on......
wheel bearings front: 3X
wheel bearings rear: 3X
muffler1X
front seats swapped out, tired
motor /trans mounts, all three
fuel filter 6X
fuel lift pump 2X
>>engine, changed out for Pikn'Pull special, 3rd rod was blued for lack of oil flow, the crank drilling was coked up blocked about 65%.
Seeing as the head & shortblock ran $96.00, cheaper than clean/ de-carbonizing the old unit with 315k on it. Also that third rod was BLUE.
>>trans was serviced with 3 quart flush & filter screen every 70k. Direct clutches (3) burnt out along with brake band. Required less than $150 in seal kit & brake band & three friction discs to get it mobile again. Ran 100k plus, diaphragm spring in Forward clutch failed, $2.85 part took out all forward gears, but not reverse. Another $150 in rubber clad seals, (diaphragm spring broke into three pieces & nicked the forward seal)
including ATF fluid. Three friction discs for Forward Clutch as well.
starter3X
CV axles 2X
CV axle reboot, 2X
alternator3X, plus 3 voltage regulators (the contact brushes inside wear out)
window regulators 2X, driver's door (just overuse) & one rear door unit, (corrosion, poor cable protection)
blower motor 2X
parking brake cables 1X
headlight switch 3X
seatbelt (1), driver' side (original was getting shredded on the leading edge, these came with belts that extend to the door, even as you open it. )
struts, 1X, all four.
balljoints 1X
tierods 1X
oxygen sensor 8X the GL has a dedicated odo box that triggers the change light every 60k)
throttle cable 1X
kickdown cable 1X (it's actually the throttle cable from the foot throttle to transmission bell crank)
differential seals 1X
Final Drive & torque converter are original. FD gear oil has been drained & filled 3X.
The driver's door had an issue last year, the lower attachment point was tearing out of the sheet metal door structure, they used assembly
epoxy at the factory in Mexico & it held so well that it proved stronger than the surrounding sheet. Through bolted the lower hinge hole
& fitted a grade 8 5/8" bolt through it, and sandwiched it back together with a wide washer & a CV axle spider hub to brace it to the door skin
interior. Door now closes correctly instead of sagging when unlatched & opened. < I though this flaw might take it off the road for good, but NO. : l
Hydraulic clutches are a bad idea, but internal slave cylinders are a horrible idea!
I once helped replace the external slave on a ~late-70s Saab. That wasn't difficult, but was an unnecessary problem.
I never had any trouble with clutch cables in ~800k miles on two Japanese cars. My brother never had any trouble with them in ~500k on two VWs, either, but they didn't work as smoothly.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
My Jeep has been pretty needy. The Camry has been pretty good.
1996 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L 4x4, 152k miles. My grandpa bought it from a government auction, 5/2007 at 100k miles. I bought it from him 11/2016 but maintained it a lot before.
Needs: Rear struts, passenger window regulator, front brakes. Have the parts, just no time to do it.
1996 Jeep Cherokee 4.0L 4x4, 152k miles. My grandpa bought it from a government auction, 5/2007 at 100k miles. I bought it from him 11/2016 but maintained it a lot before.
- Heater valve (x3, needs a 4th)
- Neutral safety switch (x2)
- Crank Position Sensor
- Cam Position Sensor
- Distributor
- Timing Chain
- Radiator (x3, leaked once, chasing it running warm with better radiators etc)
- Fan clutch (x4? Same reason as radiator)
- Water pump (x3)
- A/C compressor (x2, original's clutch blew up. Chinese replacement's clutch was squeaking bad at 10 months old
- Alternator
- Starter
- Power steering pump
- Power steering hoses and all coolant hoses
- Oil pan gasket
- Rear main seal
- Transmission cooler hoses (smashed offroad)
- Transmission pan gasket
- Transfercase output shaft seal & bearing
- Rear axle assembly (bad bearing took out a shaft. Swapped in used)
- Rear axle outer bearings
- U-Joints for both driveshafts and had them rebalanced
- Motor mounts and transmission mount
- Rear brake hose
- Front axle bearings
- Front pinion seal (again)
- Front wheel bearings
- Track bar
- Drag link and tie rod ends
- All 4 new control arms
- Rear leaf springs (the originals were flat) and bushings
- Front coil springs (the originals were worn out)
- Catalytic converter
- Oxygen sensors
- Front wheel bearings. I'm not convinced the old ones were bad though.
- Front control arms (previous owner replaced too, so second set)
- Replaced fuel pump assembly with a junk yard unit. Original's plastic cracked and leaked
- Air intake rubber hose hardened and broke from heat
- Timing belt (has had 3 total)
- Valve cover gasket was seeping, replaced
Needs: Rear struts, passenger window regulator, front brakes. Have the parts, just no time to do it.
Not there yet but my 2008 CTS 3.6DI is @180k.
Mobil 1 5w/30 since new every 5-6k miles, timing chains replaced at 48k miles, fuel pump at 101k miles due to it leaking - pump still ran (common issue), plugs at 50k, 100k and 150k (still on original coils), high pressure fuel pump (did injectors too since I was in there) at 164k, 2 batteries, both front wheel hub bearings, an HVAC temp actuator, rad hoses and belts around 75k, water pump at 60k and 168k, it had 1 coolant flush, 6 sets of tires, 2 sets of brakes pads, 1 set of front rotors, shocks and struts around 80k (still rode good but I got a good deal on new GM parts) and misc maint items like air filters, cabin filters, wipers etc. I have never serviced the transmission or rear axle. I am afraid to do the transmission now with the high miles but plan on doing the rear axle at the next oil change.
Mobil 1 5w/30 since new every 5-6k miles, timing chains replaced at 48k miles, fuel pump at 101k miles due to it leaking - pump still ran (common issue), plugs at 50k, 100k and 150k (still on original coils), high pressure fuel pump (did injectors too since I was in there) at 164k, 2 batteries, both front wheel hub bearings, an HVAC temp actuator, rad hoses and belts around 75k, water pump at 60k and 168k, it had 1 coolant flush, 6 sets of tires, 2 sets of brakes pads, 1 set of front rotors, shocks and struts around 80k (still rode good but I got a good deal on new GM parts) and misc maint items like air filters, cabin filters, wipers etc. I have never serviced the transmission or rear axle. I am afraid to do the transmission now with the high miles but plan on doing the rear axle at the next oil change.
It rides really smooth. Ill probably switch to Bilsteins when it's time, I'm a Bilstein junk. Had revalved Billi Sports on my fox body years ago (they were coilovers). My brother has an 07 GS430 that's been just as reliable. I really like the car, everything it does just seems effortless. It was seeing 86mi/day for work until August, now it's just 6mi/day. I was excited to blast through 350k miles, lol
Fuel pump died in front of my daughter's elementary school...probably looked like a clown changing that in my running clothes
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2014
- Messages
- 3,001
No transmission work? Must have been a five speed...no clutch replacement? That’s a lot of miles.
My 2005 Ford Expedition 5.4l 3v 241k miles . When I bought it . It was 185k miles . This was my suprise . It’s never give me any kind of problem . I properly put in about $150 total for last 7+ years in repair . New brake and rotor and 1 sensor I forgot what it’s . Never change the plug I told myself imma run it til it die . I drove it every where cross many state . All I use is Quaker state HM 5w30 with FL820s
now it’s running on 6 cynlinder cause it need plug change bad . Transmission is slipping cause I never change the fluid . I dint do all these cause it never give me problem . Until I bought another truck . Til this day I still hold on to it and use it as my fishing truck . Still haven’t done anything to it . Still shaking at idle but still running , no leak no smoke . BUILD FORD TOUGH BABY .
now it’s running on 6 cynlinder cause it need plug change bad . Transmission is slipping cause I never change the fluid . I dint do all these cause it never give me problem . Until I bought another truck . Til this day I still hold on to it and use it as my fishing truck . Still haven’t done anything to it . Still shaking at idle but still running , no leak no smoke . BUILD FORD TOUGH BABY .
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