Tell me the truth...

[doublebase]

For those people with 200,000-300,00 plus miles on your car and “never did anything but tires and oil changes”. What did you really do to get there? Tell me the truth.

Here‘s my only trip to 250,000 plus, land...

1999 Honda Accord (purchased new). Babied. Highway mileage. Oil changes every 3,000 miles (ST conventional). Here’s what I had to do to get it to 289,000 miles with non maintenance repairs.

Three engine mounts
Three mufflers
Two charcoal canisters
Two EVAP vent solenoids
EGR valve
Power steering rack
Front calipers twice
fuel lines
brake lines
gas tank
front subframe (rotted out, design fault)
V-Tec solenoid
Sway bar links front and back twice
Sway bar bushings five times (3 in front two in back)
Front axles twice
Upper control arms front
lower ball joints front
Radiator
Struts front
Outer tie rods three times
Brake hoses front

All this^^ to get to 289,000 miles. And I consider that lucky...no major repairs (tranny, engine). Although subframe is probably major. And at 289,000 miles all brake and fuel lines needed replacement again, the thing was drinking a quart of oil every 800 miles and it would stall at idle (if you didn’t keep your foot on the gas a little). But great car overall. Original alternator and starter. Engine never needed one single major repair...no head gasket issue or even a valve cover gasket. No vacuum leaks or misfires. Never one single AC repair. Never even needed an AC charge.

But it takes a lot of effort to get a car to 300,000 plus. Love to see some of those stories.

 

[Pablo]

That's terrible. I mean a fuel tank?

1985 Volvo 245Ti 300K miles

2 turbos (before synthetic!)
new radiator
new PS rack
2 exhaust systems
all new bushings, ball joints, bearings
all new calipers
new engine wiring harness
start fuel injector
engine mounts
alternator

Never had the head off though.

 

[Snagglefoot]

213,000 miles on a 2008 3/4 ton Burb, currently racking up 12,000 miles per year. Replaced the front wheel bearings, spark plugs, power steering pump and hoses, transmission cooler hoses, motor oil cooler hoses, shocks, two electronic door lock actuators, two batteries, corrugated wire loom covers above engine, one set of brake pads, signal light handle complete with cruise control button. No significant oil leaks. Rear and front oil seals still good. Ac belt, Ac belt tensioner, serpentine belt, belt idler pulley, belt tensioner pulley, all proactive. A couple sets of headlight bulbs, and marker lights, gas charged struts for the powered rear hatch, control button for rear hatch. Doesn’t use oil.

 

[cb_13]

02 Ford Escort zx2 200k miles

plastic thermostat housing replaced
front control arms(due to balljoint play) i think i did the passenger side twice
AC relay
Front brakes

 

[benjy]

my 2001 jetta 1.8T enhanced to 275 tq + hp was traded running well at 200 thou. minor oil consumption depending on boost up to 25 lb at times + that boost zipped teeth off 5 th gear the only major issue i blame on myself + put a clutch kit in while tranny was out, wheel bearings at 125 thou thats it oil + filters at 10 thou with real synthetic + copper plugs at every 20 thou. a great car overall!! retired now + traded jetta on a 2001 TT 225Q a similar car mechanically except AWD, on that note i had a Quaife torque biasing differential installed to handle the xtra power + tame the torque steer, uprated VR6 clutch assembly installed at that 25 thou mark ONE hr xtra labor! while the transaxle was out for Quaife install a costly 2G upgrade in 2002 but worth every $$ as i passed struggling + stuck AWD + 4WD vehicles with all season BUT winter tyres getting to work in many bad Pa snows, of course i had 4 snow tyres on it!!

 

[cb_13]

Forgot about the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, idler and serpentine belt at 120k

 

[BlueOvalFitter]

That's terrible. I mean a fuel tank?

1985 Volvo 245Ti 300K miles

2 turbos (before synthetic!)
new radiator
new PS rack
2 exhaust systems
all new bushings, ball joints, bearings
all new calipers
new engine wiring harness
start fuel injector
engine mounts
alternator

Pablo, my cousins wife owns a 2017 NAVI, 3.5 EB. It has about 60K miles on it. He has been using PYB 5W30 and an FL-500S since day 1 of owning it. Do you think by using PYB 5W30 it might/could have caused Coking within the turbos? If so, what is the life expectancy of the turbos? I have been telling him to at least use a semi synthetic oil in it, but he's old school and........
From what I understand, PYB is now a semi synthetic oil. Was it a semi synthetic as far back as 2017?

 

[tom slick]

My previous 2002 Mazda protege5 at 260,000
4x pads/rotors
1 brake caliper
radiator
Head gasket
Water pump
2 timing belt
2 cam seals
2 batteries
Front wheel bearings
Thermostat
Belts
Hoses

All minor stuff

 

[Leo99]

Luck and lots of highway miles.

 

[Pablo]

Pablo, my cousins wife owns a 2017 NAVI, 3.5 EB. It has about 60K miles on it. He has been using PYB 5W30 and an FL-500S since day 1 of owning it. Do you think by using PYB 5W30 it might/could have caused Coking within the turbos? If so, what is the life expectancy of the turbos? I have been telling him to at least use a semi synthetic oil in it, but he's old school and........
From what I understand, PYB is now a semi synthetic oil. Was it a semi synthetic as far back as 2017?

I would use any good synthetic in any turbo. All I know is the oil return line on the Volvo turbo was severely encrusted with old school group I/II oil. Synthetic not one bit of coke.

Not sure a 1980's Garrett turbo can be compared to a 2020 era turbo though.

 

[wpod]

I bought a set of new tires for the 2015 F150 and seriously thought about getting a new vehicle. I should have bought a new vehicle.

 

[slo town]

OP, I agree with others. That is terrible reliability.

Our 225,000 mile, 2010 Honda Element SC, bought new by us, has been superior. Besides routine maintenance (fluids and filters, 2 serpentine belts, 3 sets of spark plugs) the only thing I've had to replace was a set of struts/shocks (Honda OEM) and a brakes (OEM pads and rotors). Brakes needed it. Struts/shocks were a waste of money. Originals were fine.

I have not had to do a single "repair" of any type. And the engine is down just 1/8 quart MAX for the 5K OCIs it's lived on since new.

Scott

 

[wpod]

OP, I agree with others. That is terrible reliability.

Our 2010 Honda Element SC, bought new by us, has been superior. Besides routine maintenance (fluids and filters, 2 serpentine belts, 3 sets of spark plugs) the only thing I've had to replace was a set of struts/shocks (Honda OEM) and a brakes (OEM pads and rotors). Brakes needed it. Struts/shocks were a waste of money. Originals were fine.

I have not had a single "repair" of any type.

Scott

where does Doublebase live? The roads aren't salted in SLO

 

[Just a civilian pilot]

2012 Honda Civic just over 300K and live in rust belt.

Car is driven every day and 90% highway only ( well, until the pandemic ).

Car has no rust. 12,000 mile OCI ( MM ) oil changes ( Amsoil SS ). Amsoil MTF , brake fluid , engine coolant.

Replaced:
-1 wheel bearing
-a/c clutch & condenser
- a few brake pads and rotors
-a few batteries ( before any trouble )
-alternator ( before it failed ....had previous ones fail at night on the highway , been there done that ).

Everything else is original. I strictly follow the owners manual ( A1 service , etc ).

Tires ( “summer” ) last about 60,000 miles ( free tire rotations, proper pressure and alignment check ever year ). I am a Michelin tire fan ( except for winter tires ). No clue how long my winters have lasted.

“Roads” can be pretty bad here ( major potholes ) but so far, suspension components are fine.

I edited....put down 20,000 mile ODI in error ....I am in KMS.....changed every 12000 miles.

 

[4WD]

I don’t keep them past 150 since if you pass 100 they can tank in trade value. My BiL had an amazing run from an early 2000’s GM pickup. 400k miles doing 5K Mobil Super bulk oil changes … 50k transmission and rear end fluids.
Aside from brakes/tires: wheel bearings, fuel tank evaporator, intake gaskets …
(it needed a new drivers seat badly) !
Trans needed overhaul so he disclosed that and traded on new GMC …

 

[Blinker]

2008 Pontiac G5 216,000+ miles

Oil and filter changes.
Spark plugs
Intake gasket
Thermostat
Wiper blades/light bulb changes
Transmission fluid and filter changes
A few sets of shocks and struts
Lower control arms replaced
Front sway bay end links
Front outer tie rods
Serpentine belt
Front brakes twice (rear brakes need replacing)
Turn signal lever replaced
Front head lights assemblies (cosmetic reasons)
A couple power window/door lock switches (light bulb went out internally)
Lubed up the drivers seat belt buckle and ignition key with WD-40 (both were getting jammed).

All pretty basic maintenance really.

Edit: forgot to mention these:

Front right hub bearing was replaced.
Rear suspension coil spring isolator cups replaced.

 

[Astro14]

Some other cars I’ve owned have made it up there, but to keep it simple, I’ll focus on the one we have now, a Volvo XC at 266,000. No rust, good paint, nice interior, so worth maintaining and keeping. Most recent work was a commitment to keeping it past 300,000.

So, in no particular order...

Lots of oil changes (was 7,500, now 5,000)
Lots of transmission, differential, brake fluid changes
Lots of air, cabin, fuel filters
Lots of tires. Lots of tires. The thing eats tires every 30,000 miles.
Front calipers
Brake hoses
Two sets of rotors and pads
Three timing belts
Water pump
Radiator hoses
Power steering pump, hose and reservoir
Cam and crank seals
Complete Flame Trap (PCV system) replacement
Two complete* suspension rebuilds
Rear sway bar bushings
Front right axle
Transmission valve body rebuild
Added transmission cooler and external filter
Front differential seal repair
Engine mounts
Down pipe (with cat)
Turbo compression bypass valve
Silicone turbo hoses to replace rubber
Exhaust manifold gasket set
Three sets of spark plugs
Two new coils (of five COP)
Headlight wiring harness repair
Wire loom (wrap) repair around engine
Vacuum hoses replaced with silicone

Lots of work, much of it as the car went past 200,000 and rubber/insulation simply wore out. The head has never been off. No engine internals. Transmission is still original. Still looks and runs great. Good power, good MPG. No car payment on it, ever. It was bought used in 2007 for $12,000. Even with all the work added up, and considering zero payments for 14 years, it's been a great car, and fairly inexpensive to own.

*Suspension rebuild includes shocks, struts, strut mounts, spring seats, ball joints, lower control arms, inner and outer tie rods and boots, and swaybar end links. Most recent one, this month, included new front and rear springs.

 

[AutoMechanic]

2004 Toyota Camry 279,000 almost 280,000. Purchased 6/25/2010 with 48,000. The previous owner kept in immaculate condition and only used the dealer for service. Here is what’s been done: (besides general stuff)
4 sets of front wheel bearings
We replaced them last time with the whole knuckle assembly with the bearing already in them.
Valve cover gasket
Replace original spark plugs at 209,000
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Both CV axles
Quick struts on the front
Both front sway bar end links
Replaced original brake rotors at 270,000
3 alternators
3 serpentine belts
4 ignition coils
4 batteries
Both front ball joints
NEEDS: motor mounts, rear struts, another serpentine belt, belt tensioner. Transmission service still has original fluid and filter.

Its been an excellent car my dad used to take it about 7-8k over on the oil changes because he would forget but I kept it topped off always because it’s the 2.4 so it consumes oil. We are currently in it right now since the Escape is down because it won’t relearn.

 

[01rangerxl]

My Ranger, currently at 250K, owned since 49K, has needed a cat converter, ball joints/upper control arms, is on its third cam synchronizer, second radiator, and has had most cooling system hoses replaced due to cracked plastic tees. I have also replaced all wheel bearings (lasted until almost 220K though), and it's probably on its fourth set of brake rotors and I don't know how many sets of brake pads. Those are maintenance, but this truck is hard on brakes. I do live in a hilly place. I usually have to deal with some kind of coolant leak every couple of years. It was leaking again this morning, saw it pouring coolant when I was opening the gate at work. It's coming from the heater control valve. Might just be the hose clamp because that's one of the hoses that has been replaced, so I'll mess with it after lunch. The engine and transmission have never been out of the truck and it still runs and drives great. Cat converter and suspension work were the biggest repairs, the cooling system stuff has been annoying but usually easily addressed.

My Explorer is a recent purchase that I have only put a few thousand miles on, but it does look to have an almost entirely original cooling system save for one hose that was replaced when a Prestone garden hose attachment broke. It has very little plastic in the cooling system though except for the thermostat housing, which actually looks like it might be original (lower hose and clamp definitely are), and radiator tanks. The radiator is definitely an OE Ford one, so I think it is probably original. I had to replace the ball joints and control arms on this one as well, but I believe they were original with 216K on them. I suspect the transmission was replaced at some point because it has a magnetic filter added near the aux cooler. I also suspect the timing chain sprockets at least have been dealt with at some point given the years and miles, but I doubt the engine has been out of it because it looks very untouched under the hood. It also has the original cat converters.

 

[Jetronic]

I'm only half way there yet, this is the only car I bought new so can't count the others... It's been to the shop a few months after purchase to replace a headlight under warranty, one side was bi-xenon, the other decided to not be.

The rest have been oil and filter changes (oil filter every 31k miles, 50k km), 1 turkey baster brake fluid change, yearly turkey baster overflow tank coolant change, 1 set of front pads, 1 set of rear pads, and tyres as needed. Also had an alignment done.

Edit: I forgot a battery.