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Indeed, I thought my 338,000Km was impressive, that blows it away! Mine was stock bottom-end, wrote the car off hitting a patch of diesel fuel on the road.
Tell me the truth...
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Indeed, I thought my 338,000Km was impressive, that blows it away! Mine was stock bottom-end, wrote the car off hitting a patch of diesel fuel on the road.
2000 Jeep Cherokee, 214000 miles.
Items Replaced that didn't fail, but rather for maintenance:
- Water Pump
- Belt
- Fan Clutch
- Transfer Case Chain, front/rear seals (replaced when I had a slip yoke eliminator installed)
- Front axle seals (changed when putting in a locker)
Items Replaced due to age / failure
- Front differential ~170K miles , replaced with "better" high pinion 240,000 mile differential
- AC Compressor replaced with bypass pulley due to compressor failure
- 3 trans mounts --- due to abuse of the vehicle. They don't take hitting a tree at 20 MPH well
- 1 set of engine mounts
- Radiator
- Thermostat
- 9 sets of front wheel bearings --- it's an offroad toy and sees water / mud crossings, that kills the bearings with the larger tires
- Many u joints --- again, offroad toy gets abused and they see water
- 2 sets of rear springs -- offroad toy, they get compressed and extended a lot
- 2 sets of wheel cylinders, seals blew out after 10 years
- Fuel Pressure regulator on the tank. It had developed a crack and leaking gas out of the front
- Drivers side steering knuckle on the 240,000 mile axle (up to 270k when replaced), the taper was worn out and the tierod kept falling out
- Starter
- Oil Pressure Sensor
- Alternator -- it was whining pretty bad but got dunked under water and that was the end of it
- Electric fan
- Oil Pan Gasket / RMS - oil pan gasket was leaking bad, did both while I was in thee
- Steering components
Additionally, I do change the transmission fluid evey year. This jeep gets abused so I need to keep good flud in the trans.
Items Replaced that didn't fail, but rather for maintenance:
- Water Pump
- Belt
- Fan Clutch
- Transfer Case Chain, front/rear seals (replaced when I had a slip yoke eliminator installed)
- Front axle seals (changed when putting in a locker)
Items Replaced due to age / failure
- Front differential ~170K miles , replaced with "better" high pinion 240,000 mile differential
- AC Compressor replaced with bypass pulley due to compressor failure
- 3 trans mounts --- due to abuse of the vehicle. They don't take hitting a tree at 20 MPH well
- 1 set of engine mounts
- Radiator
- Thermostat
- 9 sets of front wheel bearings --- it's an offroad toy and sees water / mud crossings, that kills the bearings with the larger tires
- Many u joints --- again, offroad toy gets abused and they see water
- 2 sets of rear springs -- offroad toy, they get compressed and extended a lot
- 2 sets of wheel cylinders, seals blew out after 10 years
- Fuel Pressure regulator on the tank. It had developed a crack and leaking gas out of the front
- Drivers side steering knuckle on the 240,000 mile axle (up to 270k when replaced), the taper was worn out and the tierod kept falling out
- Starter
- Oil Pressure Sensor
- Alternator -- it was whining pretty bad but got dunked under water and that was the end of it
- Electric fan
- Oil Pan Gasket / RMS - oil pan gasket was leaking bad, did both while I was in thee
- Steering components
Additionally, I do change the transmission fluid evey year. This jeep gets abused so I need to keep good flud in the trans.
just bough 4 new tires for my Buick lesabre Now the tranny is making noise needs a kit , water pump and elbows may have to be replace should I keep it , only 75,000 miles on it?
Never had a car from new to 200,000 (current F150 I got with 168,000 miles, now @ 201,000, but had abad engine when I got it, and have several repairs on top of that).
My '04 Hyundai Elantra is the highest mileage vehicle I have owned from new (135,000 miles).
In the 11 years I had it, aside from regular maintenance (tires, belts, brakes, batteries, oil/transmission/coolant changes), it needed a new A/C condenser (my fault, rubbed a hole in it with my added transmission cooler), new radiator (plastic cracked), alternator, water pump (was not bad, just did it at 2nd timing belt change since I was in there), and a transmission shift solenoid (fixed under warranty).
the past few years I just don't drive enough, and getting to 200,000+ miles on any of my current vehicles will take a long, long time (I] vehicles)
My '04 Hyundai Elantra is the highest mileage vehicle I have owned from new (135,000 miles).
In the 11 years I had it, aside from regular maintenance (tires, belts, brakes, batteries, oil/transmission/coolant changes), it needed a new A/C condenser (my fault, rubbed a hole in it with my added transmission cooler), new radiator (plastic cracked), alternator, water pump (was not bad, just did it at 2nd timing belt change since I was in there), and a transmission shift solenoid (fixed under warranty).
the past few years I just don't drive enough, and getting to 200,000+ miles on any of my current vehicles will take a long, long time (I] vehicles)
'93 Toyota Pickup With 22RE 2.4 4 cylinder, over 320,000 miles:
- Tires
- Timing chain once due to failing guide
- Seventh set of copper spark plugs (every 50K, takes less than 5 min to change)
- Oil every 4-4.5K (10w-30 conventional whole life until last OCI of M1 HM FS 10-40)
- Shocks replaced twice (costs about $90 and an hour of work to replace all 4)
- Brake pads and rotors (every 60-90K front and 100K+ rear.)
- Fuel Filter Once
- Front main seal once
- Windshield once
- Spark Plug Wires once a couple of years ago. Old ones were still working fine though.
- Radiator x2
- Replaced starter one year ago
- Charcoal canister once, replaced with oversized one for $70 which will last until 500K at least.
- Valve cover gasket once
- Cat Converter twice along with new muffler.
- Air filter once a year. Napa Gold.
Seeing as how I was given the truck from a family member for free, my costs in these minimal repairs have saved me a lot of money over buying a new car/truck. These old Toyota trucks are cheap to fix and when they are fixed with good parts they stay fixed for a super long time.
I don't think anything, besides maybe the timing chain, is anything any car wouldn't have to do at those miles. And the truck has seen some really hard miles at times when used for hauling stuff in a work use and when living in the city doing lots of stop and go up and down steep hills.
- Tires
- Timing chain once due to failing guide
- Seventh set of copper spark plugs (every 50K, takes less than 5 min to change)
- Oil every 4-4.5K (10w-30 conventional whole life until last OCI of M1 HM FS 10-40)
- Shocks replaced twice (costs about $90 and an hour of work to replace all 4)
- Brake pads and rotors (every 60-90K front and 100K+ rear.)
- Fuel Filter Once
- Front main seal once
- Windshield once
- Spark Plug Wires once a couple of years ago. Old ones were still working fine though.
- Radiator x2
- Replaced starter one year ago
- Charcoal canister once, replaced with oversized one for $70 which will last until 500K at least.
- Valve cover gasket once
- Cat Converter twice along with new muffler.
- Air filter once a year. Napa Gold.
Seeing as how I was given the truck from a family member for free, my costs in these minimal repairs have saved me a lot of money over buying a new car/truck. These old Toyota trucks are cheap to fix and when they are fixed with good parts they stay fixed for a super long time.
I don't think anything, besides maybe the timing chain, is anything any car wouldn't have to do at those miles. And the truck has seen some really hard miles at times when used for hauling stuff in a work use and when living in the city doing lots of stop and go up and down steep hills.
Wife's 1994 Honda Accord w/auto trans had 315K miles on it when we sold it. Nothing but oil changes every 5K miles, spark plugs every 30K miles, changed the timing belt once, brakes, tires and batteries as needed.
My 1994 Honda Accord w/ manual trans had 305K miles on it when sold. Nothing but oil changes every 5K miles, spark plugs every 30K miles, changed the original clutch at 240K miles...also oil pan gasket, rear main seal and oil pump while I was in it that far, brakes, tires and batteries as needed.
Wife's 2007 Mazda 6 had 230K miles on it when sold. Nothing but oil changes every 5K miles, spark plugs every 30K miles, power window motor, brakes, tires and batteries as needed.
My 2002 Chevy Silverado has 206K miles on it. Oil changes whenever the OLM tells me. Had to put a set of heads on it @ 130K miles (Castech design flaw) also replaced the water pump, thermostat and all associated gaskets while I was in there that deep, new transmission @ 140K miles, another transmission @ 180K miles due to 1st builder's sloppy work.
When I replaced the heads, I took notice to the cylinder walls and they still had the cross hatches in them...virtually no wear at all.
Never had synthetic motor oil in any of my vehicles. I did run synthetic ATF in the first transmission I had built along with a larger capacity trans cooler...but that trans still failed. Like I said, it was a mistake the builder made.
My 1994 Honda Accord w/ manual trans had 305K miles on it when sold. Nothing but oil changes every 5K miles, spark plugs every 30K miles, changed the original clutch at 240K miles...also oil pan gasket, rear main seal and oil pump while I was in it that far, brakes, tires and batteries as needed.
Wife's 2007 Mazda 6 had 230K miles on it when sold. Nothing but oil changes every 5K miles, spark plugs every 30K miles, power window motor, brakes, tires and batteries as needed.
My 2002 Chevy Silverado has 206K miles on it. Oil changes whenever the OLM tells me. Had to put a set of heads on it @ 130K miles (Castech design flaw) also replaced the water pump, thermostat and all associated gaskets while I was in there that deep, new transmission @ 140K miles, another transmission @ 180K miles due to 1st builder's sloppy work.
When I replaced the heads, I took notice to the cylinder walls and they still had the cross hatches in them...virtually no wear at all.
Never had synthetic motor oil in any of my vehicles. I did run synthetic ATF in the first transmission I had built along with a larger capacity trans cooler...but that trans still failed. Like I said, it was a mistake the builder made.
Thought it was the valve, it was a plastic tee again! This one was on a NAPA (Gates or Continental?) hose assembly I put on about 8 years/100k ago..guess I can't complain too much. Already got a replacement, but if this thing leaks again I'm straight piping the heater hoses, plugging the vacuum line for the heater control valve, and removing the PCV valve heater lines.
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It’s crazy when own something that long that you replace something twice and remember when you replaced it the first time, isn’t it?
Rust belt...That's terrible.I mean a fuel tank?
2006 Ford Focus ZX5 2.0L with 245k. Bought it with 92k.
Front and Rear Brakes
Idler pulley
Serpentine belt water pump
thermostat
alternator
spark plugs
tires
1997 F-150 5.4 210k
spark plugs and a few coils
O2 sensor
oil line for remote filter assembly
alternator
ball joints/tie rods ends
brakes
tires
1998 Pontiac Transport Montana 3.4L 260k
tranny valve body
2 or 3 lower intake manifold gaskets
head gasket
fuel pressure regulator
lots of injector cleanings from dealer for a few years and then it went away and never missed again
2 water pumps
ball joints/tie rod ends
rear air shocks
spark plugs/wires
brakes
tires
Front and Rear Brakes
Idler pulley
Serpentine belt water pump
thermostat
alternator
spark plugs
tires
1997 F-150 5.4 210k
spark plugs and a few coils
O2 sensor
oil line for remote filter assembly
alternator
ball joints/tie rods ends
brakes
tires
1998 Pontiac Transport Montana 3.4L 260k
tranny valve body
2 or 3 lower intake manifold gaskets
head gasket
fuel pressure regulator
lots of injector cleanings from dealer for a few years and then it went away and never missed again
2 water pumps
ball joints/tie rod ends
rear air shocks
spark plugs/wires
brakes
tires
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You are the only person I've really seen take a 3.4 GM engine/body/vehicle that far. So, congratulations!
I used to work on those things - usually at 100k we had already done 2-3 sets of intake gaskets (at one point they were failing right out of warranty around 36,000 miles). Struts were always going (upper bearing), rack and pinion, wheel bearings, tranny's, crank sensors, power steering pumps, AC condensers. A lot of intermediate shafts.
You did a nice job on yours, good to see/hear about a high mileage story on one of these!
I always said they should have given you an lower intake manifold gasket in the glove box when new because you will need it. The GM gaskets were junk from what I can tell. I had my friend who has a shop do the head gasket when that went. He did everything with the Fel Pro updated gaskets at about 160k and never had another problem. I finally scrapped it 1.5 years ago because it got so rusty and needed ball joints and tie rod ends and wasn't worth putting the effort and money into it. We hauled all 3 kids around since 2000 with it so it was sad to see it go. Still was getting 24-25mpg as I drove it to the scrap yard.
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Funny thing is I don't remember doing too many head gaskets on them, but yeah, once the new designed gaskets came out things started getting better. I did do a few timing cover gaskets. Those were some of the loudest engines upon startup...sounded like cement mixers. Think it was piston slap or the wrist pins - it would go away after it was heated up, but man they were loud. They were pretty easy to work on once you got used to them, though.
Which is what, 5 payments on an average car?
Y'all must be in love with your vehicles, I would never put up with so many problems that some people have listed in this thread. Maybe I just found another benefit to staying stock and not dumping a bunch of money into mods. I would struggle to unload a problematic vehicle if I'd already spent a bunch of money and time and sweat on modifications that don't increase the value of the vehicle.
2006 Tacoma with 168,000 miles: A/C condenser at 105k, water pump at 150k and valve cover gasket at 165k. Otherwise just normal wear and maintenance items: brakes, belts, battery, hoses, filters, fluids, alignments, etc.
1995 Corvette with 80,000 miles: heater core, power steering pump, sway bar bushings, brake hoses and front air dam (spoiler).
2006 Tacoma with 168,000 miles: A/C condenser at 105k, water pump at 150k and valve cover gasket at 165k. Otherwise just normal wear and maintenance items: brakes, belts, battery, hoses, filters, fluids, alignments, etc.
1995 Corvette with 80,000 miles: heater core, power steering pump, sway bar bushings, brake hoses and front air dam (spoiler).
I drove that thing everywhere. San Diego to Seattle & then to Vancouver B.C. San Diego to Omaha, NE & back. Test n Tune drag nights, auto-X, HPDE/open tracking weekends. It was my daily driver & 1 gf for a few years lived in Riverside County probably 55mi away. Still drove it to work when I lived up there (Riverside) too. That was 118 a day. I miss that car. Only time it left me in the side of the road is when it dropped a valve.
Not sure if you were referring to me that 3000 was over the course of 18 years.
I've actually seen one early Venture with over 500k miles. No idea how much work had been done over the years but they were still racking up miles...it was probably 13-14 years old at that point, I changed oil on it maybe 2-3 times (customer car where I worked). It was definitely well worn, but far from being the worst car I saw. I also saw a 700k mile Saturn L200 there...at least that's what the cluster read.
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You have to consider that we are talking about high mileage here, your 168,000 is “high mileage”, but it isn’t in the same ballpark as 300,000 plus.
With my Honda I did nothing in out of pocket repairs in the first 115,000 miles...tell you the truth, didn’t do much until after 150,000 miles. And honestly, the bigger ticket items didn’t come until over 220,000 miles. And because of where I live (The salt belt), I could blame almost 1/3 of my repairs on salt/rust. I’m jealous of the people that don’t have to deal with rust. Haha.
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