Tell me the truth...

doublebase said:
All this^^ to get to 289,000 miles. And I consider that lucky...no major repairs (tranny, engine). Although subframe is probably major. And at 289,000 miles all brake and fuel lines needed replacement again, the thing was drinking a quart of oil every 800 miles and it would stall at idle (if you didn’t keep your foot on the gas a little). But great car overall. Original alternator and starter. Engine never needed one single major repair...no head gasket issue or even a valve cover gasket. No vacuum leaks or misfires. Never one single AC repair. Never even needed an AC charge.
Click to expand...
The OP's comments seem contradictory. And the "original alternator and starter" comment is.....what? Some kind of joke?

See his comments from a recent post.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/over-25-vehicles-and-never-had-to-top-off.338261/page-2

"As for me personally? I have two vehicles that don’t “need to be topped off/up”. One is a 2008 Honda CRV...I could go 6,000 miles and that thing doesn’t seem to really register any usage on that dipstick. The other is my 2016 Avalon, same thing. But I’ve had three cars/trucks that do like to get topped off. 2012 Mercedes ML350. Needs to be topped off at around 3,000 miles. 2007 Lexus Ls460 - needed nothing for top offs until it started reaching 120,000 miles or so, then just got worse and worse until I was topping off every 500 miles. And a 2018 Chevy Silverado needEd to be topped off with a 3/4’s a quart in 4,000-5,000 miles from day one. And I’ve seen many Silverados come in for their 6,000 mile oil changes with nothing registering on the dipstick at all (I’d say maybe 40% of them that I service)."

What happened to the 1999 Honda?

Scott
 
Last edited:
2004 E-150, 257k.
Purchased at 133k and did ball joints right away, ball joints again at 228k.
Front bearings at around 150k.
ABS sensor 181k.
New battery at 193k ( autocraft platinum, still kicking).
Radiator around 200k.
232k Spark plugs and boots.
236k Alternator.
240k Center link and axle seal.
Various Bushings.
I stay on top of changing fluids, besides the cracked radiator the cooling system has been trouble free ( i drain and refill the radiator every 2 years 25-30k miles).
Shortly after purchasing in the trans started slipping, the mechanic said he found a lot of metal mud at the bottom of the trans pan and it didn't look good, from that point on ive done ATF drain and fills every 25k miles with various fluids from mercon V to mobil 1 to maxlife and even lubeguard red a couple of times....transmission shifts smoothly.
Engine oil every 5-8k with all kinds of oils ive found on sale, at 257k sometimes i cant tell if the engine is running thats how smooth it runs.
 
Snagglefoot said:
213,000 miles on a 2008 3/4 ton Burb, currently racking up 12,000 miles per year. Replaced the front wheel bearings, spark plugs, power steering pump and hoses, transmission cooler hoses, motor oil cooler hoses, shocks, two electronic door lock actuators, two batteries, corrugated wire loom covers above engine, one set of brake pads, signal light handle complete with cruise control button. No significant oil leaks. Rear and front oil seals still good. Ac belt, Ac belt tensioner, serpentine belt, belt idler pulley, belt tensioner pulley, all proactive. A couple sets of headlight bulbs, and marker lights, gas charged struts for the powered rear hatch, control button for rear hatch. Doesn’t use oil.
Click to expand...
That's cool, is that the DOD engine?
 
slo town said:
The OP's comments seem contradictory. And the "original alternator and starter" comment is.....what? Some kind of joke?

See his comments from a recent post.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/over-25-vehicles-and-never-had-to-top-off.338261/page-2

"As for me personally? I have two vehicles that don’t “need to be topped off/up”. One is a 2008 Honda CRV...I could go 6,000 miles and that thing doesn’t seem to really register any usage on that dipstick. The other is my 2016 Avalon, same thing. But I’ve had three cars/trucks that do like to get topped off. 2012 Mercedes ML350. Needs to be topped off at around 3,000 miles. 2007 Lexus Ls460 - needed nothing for top offs until it started reaching 120,000 miles or so, then just got worse and worse until I was topping off every 500 miles. And a 2018 Chevy Silverado needEd to be topped off with a 3/4’s a quart in 4,000-5,000 miles from day one. And I’ve seen many Silverados come in for their 6,000 mile oil changes with nothing registering on the dipstick at all (I’d say maybe 40% of them that I service)."

What happened to the 1999 Honda?

Scott
Click to expand...
I sold it five years ago...well, it could have been 6 (I had better check in case you pull up a thread I wrote from 10 years ago).

Honda Accord was purchased new, kept it 17 years, gave it to my daughter. She drove it for two weeks and it stalled on her at an intersection. That was it, bought her a Jeep Liberty (which we still own). I was driving a 2007 Lexus LS460 at the time, the Accord was a backup/winter beater at that point in my life. I kept the Lexus for 4-5 years (179,000 miles). I then bought a new 2018 Silverado - kept that two years and 52,000 miles. My wife was driving the 2008 CRV, then we bought her the Mercedes and gave the CRV to my daughter...my son now has the Liberty. I traded in my 2018 Silverado last June and bought my 2016 Avalon off Facebook Marketplace (a little old lady sold it to me and she was sharp as a tack).

I also enjoy long walks on the beach and witty banter. I'll post my social security number latter (if you'll show me yours first).

Oh, and yes, the Honda had the original starter and alternator. I'm sorry.
 
cb_13 said:
Forgot about the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, idler and serpentine belt at 120k
Click to expand...
I didn't even mention my timing belts, figured it was just basic maintenance...but I did two of them...was heading for a third when I sold the car for $1,200 bucks.
 
200K on the 2006 TSX
Tires
Brake Pads and Rotors
Valve Adjustment
Power Steering Pump
Ignition Coils
Ding fixes at my favorite painter's shop
Oil changes at 5K and Trans Service about 25K, filters all day long...

Probably the gold standard of my cars. Except the Tundra has been even better.

203K on the 2001 Tundra V8
Bilstein Shocks to stiffen it up
Tires
Brake pads, original resurfaced rotors
Lotsa oil changes, couple of trans services
Filters
Aftermarket Android Auto Stereo and Backup Camera
 
2011 Prius, 214K miles

- Two sets of shocks and struts, may or may not have been necessary
- Two sets of front lower control arms, mainly due to the bushings drying out and being noisy
- Head gasket job (at 185K)
- Intermediate Steering Shaft
- MAF Sensor
- Water Pump replaced as PM, but wasn't necessary
- Thermostat replaced at the same time as the head gasket job, but for maintenance
- A/C Condenser replaced because it was severely damaged by road debris
- Two 12V Batteries, both times due to the battery testing weak (not complete failure)
- Spark Plugs at 90K intervals, Brake Flushes at 30-45K intervals, Transaxle fluid at 30K intervals, 4 coolant services
 
My daughters 99 Mercedes ML 320 V-6 daily driver with 246k. Purchased with 160k from original owner who gave it regular service at a local Indy MB shop. Mobil 1 oils. No repairs except window regulator and horn relay and power steering pump. Just normal maintenance. That car runs so good and is solid as a rock built on a steel frame. It could use valve cover gaskets.
 
slo town said:
OP, I agree with others. That is terrible reliability.

Our 225,000 mile, 2010 Honda Element SC, bought new by us, has been superior. Besides routine maintenance (fluids and filters, 2 serpentine belts, 3 sets of spark plugs) the only thing I've had to replace was a set of struts/shocks (Honda OEM) and a brakes (OEM pads and rotors). Brakes needed it. Struts/shocks were a waste of money. Originals were fine.

I have not had to do a single "repair" of any type. And the engine is down just 1/8 quart MAX for the 5K OCIs it's lived on since new.

Scott
Click to expand...
We have a 2008 CRV and it’s similar to the Element in terms of drive train. It’s been basically bullet proof since we bought it (we are at 150,000 miles now). Basically no repairs (although a front strut is starting to leak and I did have to replace the AC relay for ten bucks).

I think that drivetrain is the best kept secret in the industry.
 
The Critic said:
2011 Prius, 214K miles

- Two sets of shocks and struts, may or may not have been necessary
- Two sets of front lower control arms, mainly due to the bushings drying out and being noisy
- Head gasket job (at 185K)
- Intermediate Steering Shaft
- MAF Sensor
- Water Pump replaced as PM, but wasn't necessary
- Thermostat replaced at the same time as the head gasket job, but for maintenance
- A/C Condenser replaced because it was severely damaged by road debris
- Two 12V Batteries, both times due to the battery testing weak (not complete failure)
- Spark Plugs at 90K intervals, Brake Flushes at 30-45K intervals, Transaxle fluid at 30K intervals, 4 coolant services
Click to expand...
Outside of the head gasket, that’s pretty impressive. Intermediate shaft? Was it noisy? I’ve replaced a few of those...not the funnest repairs I’ve done.
 
AutoMechanic said:
2004 Toyota Camry 279,000 almost 280,000. Purchased 6/25/2010 with 48,000. The previous owner kept in immaculate condition and only used the dealer for service. Here is what’s been done: (besides general stuff)
4 sets of front wheel bearings
We replaced them last time with the whole knuckle assembly with the bearing already in them.
Valve cover gasket
Replace original spark plugs at 209,000
Inner and outer tie rod ends
Both CV axles
Quick struts on the front
Both front sway bar end links
Replaced original brake rotors at 270,000
3 alternators
3 serpentine belts
4 ignition coils
4 batteries
Both front ball joints
NEEDS: motor mounts, rear struts, another serpentine belt, belt tensioner. Transmission service still has original fluid and filter.

Its been an excellent car my dad used to take it about 7-8k over on the oil changes because he would forget but I kept it topped off always because it’s the 2.4 so it consumes oil. We are currently in it right now since the Escape is down because it won’t relearn.
Click to expand...
That’s impressive! Makes my Accord look like a crap box.
 
lurker said:
2012 Honda Civic just over 300K and live in rust belt.

Car is driven every day and 90% highway only ( well, until the pandemic ).

Car has no rust. 12,000 mile OCI ( MM ) oil changes ( Amsoil SS ). Amsoil MTF , brake fluid , engine coolant.

Replaced:
-1 wheel bearing
-a/c clutch & condenser
- a few brake pads and rotors
-a few batteries ( before any trouble )
-alternator ( before it failed ....had previous ones fail at night on the highway , been there done that ).

Everything else is original. I strictly follow the owners manual ( A1 service , etc ).

Tires ( “summer” ) last about 60,000 miles ( free tire rotations, proper pressure and alignment check ever year ). I am a Michelin tire fan ( except for winter tires ). No clue how long my winters have lasted.

“Roads” can be pretty bad here ( major potholes ) but so far, suspension components are fine.

I edited....put down 20,000 mile ODI in error ....I am in KMS.....changed every 12000 miles.
Click to expand...
Very impressive! And here I thought my 1999 Accord was pretty good, guess not.
 
jimbrewer said:
Certain amount of confirmation bias in these reports: GM owner: “It’s nickel and dimed me to death.” (Long list of minor repairs follows.)

Honda owner: “It’s been rock solid except for a few minor things”. (Similar list of minor repairs follows.)
Click to expand...
Well to be fair, if I purchased a similarly equipped Chevy Malibu instead of the Accord...I would have needed 8 sets of intake gaskets, three power steering racks, two transmissions, ten intermediate shafts, three power steering pumps and alternators, endless sensors and every piece of the interior would have worn away to dust.

Oh, and it never would have made it past 250,000. All that^^^would have been needed in the first 150,000...then a rod would have **** through the side of the block. Haha.

I only know this because I worked on those junk boxes for five years.
 
doublebase said:
Very impressive! And here I thought my 1999 Accord was pretty good, guess not.
Click to expand...
Thanks.

But the PM hasn’t been cheap ( but MUCH cheaper than buying a new car ) as I follow all the scheduled maintenance ( A1,B12, etc ) and is done at the Honda dealership ( live in Condo, not allowed to work on cars here ). I get I professionally detailed once a year ( spring ) as I simply cannot get the salt out of the interior like they can and then I keep it clean myself until the next year.

Would I have been as lucky had I just did the bare minimum ( oil changes, other fluid changes , etc ), who knows.

Car runs perfect. Does not burn any oil. It’s rust proofed every year. Probably spend about $1000.00 per year total ( PM & service inspections ) and $200.00 for the detail. In uncle same $ that works out to about $700.00 plus I drive more than twice as far as what normal drivers do. For normal drivers it would be more like $300.00 a year. More than reasonable.
 
Last edited:
Let's see, wife and I took 3 vehicles to over 200k over the last 20 years. It's been so-so, compared to people on here. Usually something breaks every year...

Ignoring anything on the scheduled maintenance list, including brake fluid changes, and ignoring tires & wiper blades:

2004 VW Jetta, new to 314k, 11 years:
  • front wheel bearings
  • struts 2x, and LCA bushings once
  • pads and rotors, twice. Rear calipers 2x
  • EGR cooler work
  • intake flap, 2x (at $200 a pop)
  • flywheel went bad, so new flywheel & clutch, even though clutch was fine at 249k
  • turbo died at 250k. Took out O2 sensor also
  • electric fuel pump
  • rebuilt the CV axles when one boot tore (did myself for the cost of 4 boots)
  • battery 1x
  • 3 windshields?
  • rust repair once (hood, both fenders, rear hatch, both rockers)
  • sold with bad a/c clutch, all else working, no oil burning, but rear axle was bent and had large toe in (0.5 degree?), along with bad paint and rust holes
1999 Camry, bought at 140k, now at 228k, 4 years:
  • struts, PO also replaced at some point, I don't think it needed it but they were on sale, so at 140k it get new ones
  • rear wheel bearings
  • valve cover gasket and oil pump o-ring started leaking profusely right after I got it--but not sure if that is maintenance on this motor or not, it's so common
  • flex pipe
  • O2 sensors, both
  • PO did starter and carbon cannister
  • radiator
  • alternator
  • battery 1x
  • windshield
  • front pads, rotors and calipers, 1x (PO surely did at least once also)
  • only thing not working is rear defroster (my fault), burns a quart over a 5k OCI, looks awful (all clearcoat gone, but I bought it like that)
2011 Camry, bought new, now at 221k, 9.5 years:
  • pads and rotors 1x, although it's almost due again
  • battery 1x
  • rear sway bar bushings
  • HVAC motor started to make noise
  • seatbelts, but that was the dog's fault
  • Everything works, might be starting to sip oil (no makeup oil required over 10k), paint starting to bubble and plenty of scratches
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

SammyChevelleTypeS3
NEW Vehicle Advice / Recommendations: Anyone? Subaru or Toyota? What says the gang?
3 4 5
Replies
84
Views
2K
mikeduf
C
Bought a 2010 Ford Fusion
Replies
9
Views
800
dishdude
A
Day in the life of a mechanic...
2 3
Replies
43
Views
4K
Jim Rogers
wwillson
GM Super Cruise - 15,000 mile review
2 3 4
Replies
72
Views
8K
MCompact
K
Scrapped the 2009 Ford Flex today...after almost 15 years of ownership
2
Replies
29
Views
6K
D60
Back
Top Bottom