Tell me the truth...

[doublebase]

1995 Villager (Nissan Maxima driveline) 240k miles when we sold it; it still ran great
- a couple of water pumps and cam belts
- a motor mount 2x
- typical consumables (brakes, rotors, tires, plugs, shocks/struts, etc)
Bought new: I started out with syns at 3k miles, then 5k miles, then started running dino oils at 10k miles after warranty ran out; never any difference in wear rates despite the differences in oil and filter brands and OCI durations. UOAs posted on BITOG. It was the quintessential soccer-mom vehicle; start/stop all day long, short trips, etc. Ran like a champ it's entire life.

2005 Grand Marquis (4.6L 2v) 270k miles when we sold it; still ran great
- a couple of water pumps
- intake manifold
- typical consumables (brakes, rotors, tires, plugs, shocks/struts, etc)
- a/c accumulator receiver
- seat belt pre-tensioner (yikes that was pricey $$$, but it had to be replaced to make the warning light go out)
Bought used; started out with 5k mile dino OCIs, then went to 10k mile OCIs mostly with cheapest lubes on sale. Ran some dino/syn experiments; never made a darn bit of difference in the wear rates. UOAs posted on BITOG. Rodents ravaged it after we sold it to friends and they just let it set outside; sad end to a great car.

2000 F-250 4x2 (7.3L PSD) 275k miles when we sold it; ran fine
- oil cooler o-rings
- turbo pedestal o-rings
- cam position sensor 2x
- typical consumables (brakes, rotors, tires, shocks/struts, etc)
- the trans was going to need a rebuild soon
- typical body rust in all the right places (bed fenders, cab lower corners, etc)
These were great engines when left stock or lightly modified; they just keep chugging along. The tranny needing a rebuild was that straw that broke my son's back; didn't want to put the money into it.

I used to work in a fleet and we had some Grand Marquis/Crown Vics...they really were legendary. All I remember doing to those things were EGR valve sensors (delta pressure differential sensors). Maybe some alternators, ac accumulators, some window regulators, wiper motors. That was about it.

 

[Snagglefoot]

213,000 miles on a 2008 3/4 ton Burb, currently racking up 12,000 miles per year. Replaced the front wheel bearings, spark plugs, power steering pump and hoses, transmission cooler hoses, motor oil cooler hoses, shocks, two electronic door lock actuators, two batteries, corrugated wire loom covers above engine, one set of brake pads, signal light handle complete with cruise control button. No significant oil leaks. Rear and front oil seals still good. Ac belt, Ac belt tensioner, serpentine belt, belt idler pulley, belt tensioner pulley, all proactive. A couple sets of headlight bulbs, and marker lights, gas charged struts for the powered rear hatch, control button for rear hatch. Doesn’t use oil.

Add in a new master cylinder. I noticed it was hard to keep the brake fluid clean when doing turkey blaster fluid replacements. There was a lot of black debris in the fluid. One day I lost one brake circuit temporarily. That was enough. Replaced the MC with a AC Delco unit. I take it the black debris was caused by the deterioration of the cups.

 

[repairman54]

Full synth. fluids and the severe maint. schedule always gets me to 200k without any major drivetrain repairs.

 

[BLND1]

Forgot about the timing belt, timing belt tensioner, idler and serpentine belt at 120k

As with anything - I think people have have these vehicles so long they forget about major repairs from 10 years ago.

 

[Lyman]

I have had more then a few go over 200k. My current Jeep has 207k and I have done the cooling system twice. Had to replace everything including the electric fan. Also replaced the Brake Booster and Alternator. Oh and I just replaced the broken seat bracket. Everything else was regular maintenance.
I owned a 1990 Ford Ranger that was very good to me. I bought it at 50k needing a clutch. I drove it to 350k and replaced a fuel pump a wheel bearing and a oil filter housing gasket. Everything else being regular stuff, Brakes, tires ect.
I live in CA and drive about 20k a year.

 

[super20dan]

2004 toyota highlander 4 cyl. current 225k . since new its had-1 set hoses-3 sets of tires- spark plugs at 180k-ac temp switch-power window motor-starter and ac charged 3 times . . yes it uses some oil 1 qt every 1000m. oil change every 3k 2 serp belts -2 sets brake pads. top engine mount

 

[Bird's_Garage]

My dad bought a 97 GMC Sierra 1500 Z71 and put 190k miles on it. All he ever did to it was tires, oil, brakes, and 1 alignment.

When I moved out of the house he sold me the truck for $2600. I owned it from 190k to 215k.

The day I took it to my house, the serpentine belt idler pulley locked up. A month later the A/C went out. I had to replace the entire thing: condenser, compressor, lines, etc. A year later, the intake manifold gaskets failed and mixed coolant with the oil. I let the truck sit for 6 months and bought a more reliable vehicle. I finally got around to fixing the gaskets and the 4L60E failed the next day. I sold that truck for the $2600 I paid for it, with no reverse or 1st gear.

I can say it lasted close to 200k with almost no maintenance, but it went downhill fast.

 

[aquariuscsm]

Friend of mine had a 98 Altima she purchased brand new. All she ever did to it was PYB every 3k. Car never had one single repair ever done to it. Was nearing 400,000 miles when she sold it only because she wanted a new car.

 

[GMFan]

2011 Mazda 6. Not at 200k yet, but at 155k.


21k miles: Air Filter, Cabin Filter and half a can of 3M car undercoating to repair a scrape to the frame.
24k miles: New headlight bulb
30k miles: New tires and alignment
32k miles: New grommet which fell out and caused underbody shield rattle ($3.99 dealer part)
40k miles: Cabin Filter
48k miles: New rear brake pads and rotors
51k miles: New headlight bulb
54k miles: New Air Filter and Cabin Filter
57k miles: Alignment
58k miles: Replaced manual trans-axle gear oil and refilled with Redline MT-90 75W90.
60k miles: New headlight bulb (see a trend?)
70k miles: Cabin Air Filter and (4) new Motorcraft spark plugs
72k miles: Multiple recalls addressed by dealer (including one for spider webs!)
73k miles: Exhaust leak - repaired exhaust gasket and weld job (Meineke did a great job for ~$95)
75k miles: Replaced OEM battery (pre-emptive replacement as battery was 5yrs old).
100k miles: 4 new tires
101k miles: 2 new front struts, 2 new rear shocks, new front sway bar links
113k miles: Coolant flush
116k miles: Replaced Takata shrapnel airbag under recall
116k miles: New rear brake pads and rotors (Still on original fronts!)
116k miles: Left axle failure. New left front CV Axle
116k miles: Brake fluid replacements
116k miles: Replaced manual trans-axle gear oil, 75W90.
125k miles: Front engine cradle/suframe rusted out. Replaced by dealer under recall.
125k miles: New front brake pads and rotors. (originals lasted this long!)
136k miles: New Spark plugs
137k miles: New Air Filter
141k miles: Rear sub-frame rusted out near shocks and multiple holes. Junkyard sub frame installed. Cost to me: $600. Dealer wanted $4,500!
145k miles: Replaced Bank 1 O2 sensor.
148k miles: New battery
148k miles: Replaced Mass Airflow Sensor,
149k miles: New left CV axle, new valve cover gasket, 75w90 MT oil change, new air filter, new spark plugs
150k miles: Instrument cluster died (security chip wouldn’t allow car to start). New instrument cluster installed and mileage started back at 0!

Once you hit 150k miles it kinda becomes unknown territory…

2nd gear synchros are shot on the transmission. I have to double clutch when I go from 1st to 2nd or it grinds a lot. Needs 4 new tires very soon and probably another coolant flush. If I get 200k miles out of it I’ll figure I got my money’s worth.

 

[Oliveoil2]

1996 Tacoma v6 5speed manual, 292,000:
Oci 10k synthetic since 2003
And lube driveline
Change cabin filter
60k fluids and air filter
Front brakes 1x
Windshield 2x
1 ball joint
Tires 3x

1998 BMW M3, 200,850.
10k oci, synthetic
Cabin filter
60k all fluids and clean k&n
Front brakes 1x
Replace driveshaft.
tires @25k
Windshield 1x

2012 Honda Fit 5speed manual 122,000
Oci 10-12k MM synthetic
New cabin filter
Routine maintenance at MM prompting.
(replaced clutch, brake, trans, coolant fluid, adjust valves)
Tires 1x
Front Brakes 1x

never replaced a clutch in any car I’ve owned. Same with tie rods. If you only turn the steering wheel when the front tires are moving then you’ll have the same luck.

10-12k oci on older cars like mine is a no-brainer. Yet I wouldn’t go more than 5k on any newer direct injection car.

 

[dan_erickson]

2009 Fusion 3.0 v6
Totaled at 289,000
Regular oil changes with whatever oil is on hand
3 sets of tires
2 sets of pads and rotors
ABS hydraulic pump, replaced with used for $50
Pass side engine mount
Torque mount
Water pump at 250K
Ac condenser and compressor at 250k
Pass side outer CV boot
Tie rod ends and alignment
Few light bulbs
Few transmission fluid changes
2 batteries

 

[mr_boring]

96 Jeep Grand Cherokee, 269k, straight 6.

It was either 1 starter and 2 alternators or 2 starters and 1 alternator.
Freeze plugs, which were the only real PITA maintenance item ever on this vehicle.
Radiator.
2 fuel filters.
Changed oil approximately every 5k miles.
Water pump and thermostat (fairly early.... well under 100k)
Spark plugs and wires somewhere around 150k

Ran good when I sold it.


EDIT: I don't count things like bulbs and batteries....

 

[Heywood_6078]

Bought new. 1993 Ford F150, XLT, 2WD, long bed, 300 six cylinder, 5 speed manual transmission.
293,860 miles over 12 yrs.

1. Clutch
2. pressure plate
3. throw out bearing, all 3 at 191,000.
3 new batteries over the yrs. Maybe 4. Not positive.
New brakes at least 3 times. front twice, rear once with front
Alternator
3 sets of shocks
Several fuel filters
Straight 30 wt Havoline oil for the life of the truck, (While I owned it anyway)
Changed oil every 4,000 miles on the dot. Or very close anyway.
Motorcraft oil filters at every change.
4 sets of tires.
And several fluid changes done as preventive maintenance.

Sold the truck for 2,500 hundred bucks in 2005. Was a great truck.

 

[antonmnster]

231k on my n54 BMW 335.

My fingers don't have enough strength to type the list of replacement parts.

Suspension is the hardest to keep in good tick. Lots of bushings, struts, alignments. I haven't leaned a fundamental lesson: buy quality parts, and replace things when you can get to them! Cheap strut mounts from Autozone, not replacing the whole serpentine system, crappy parts... laziness and cheapness have cost me time and money.

The routine parts (injectors, water pump, hpfp, etc) have all been done, and the versions are very reliable.

The car still runs great, doesn't burn or leak(!) anything. It's still quite a ride. It's the car that was never supposed to make it this far.

 

[HonorAndHonesty]

Friend has a 07 Civic, just hit 450k, let's see its had 2 ac compressors, 1st replacement was a honda unit, second one off ebay. Ebay compressor sounds bad at this time. I believe there is an issue with airflow thru the condenser due to cooling fins being beat up. High side pressure is probably very high!

1 starter, 1 evap canister, rear shocks, 1 set rear shoes, 3 or 4 sets of pads, 1 serp belt at 240k just because, 1 set of plugs at early 200k, obviously numerous oil changes and filters.

One and only atf drain and fill, original coolant!

Its had 2 windshields, and 1 wiring repair for evap vent valve? Cant remember, it was rodent damage.

Drivers sun visor was replaced under warranty, it cracked. New one cracked as well, he fixed it and its held up for 400k!


Oil changes always based on OLM, dino oil.

At this point it could use a muffler, but it's just slightly louder than it should be, the rust is starting to get really bad.

The car definitely doesn't owe him anything. I'd like to see it hit 500k. It doesn't have the power it used to have, but still runs and drives great.

 

[PandaBear]

Both of my cars at 270k really didn't get there by "didn't do anything".

Radiators lasted about 150k, ignition coil lasted about 180-240k, struts / shocks lasted about 160-180k although you probably can keep driving without replacing.

What I do not have is miles related engine rebuild or transmission rebuild.

 

[Snagglefoot]

Put me down for a new alternator at 220,000 miles in my 2008 Burb with a 6.0. Put in a GM OE 145 amp alternator. It’s the first replacement alternator.