ls1mike
$50 Site Donor 2026
I am looking at the 8000Tl. Should be able to lift all my junk. I was going to get a four post lift, but I use the garage for other things and need to move stuff around.
They want you to place a underneath each QuickJack so if the lock bar fails the jack stand will keep it from collapsing.Got the cheapie normal 5000 pound one from Costco for Xmas in 2018.
One side stopped going down in Spring of 2023 once the weight of the car was off it. I used Maine's 4 year implied warranty to get it replaced.
They want me to grease the thing via holes in the hinge. Imagine a 7/8" diameter pipe with a 5/8 pipe inside of it for a hinge, and a 3/32" hole in the outer pipe. No zerk, no way to get the grease to go anywhere in there.
If you understand leverage and hydraulic advantage you'd realize the cylinders make very little upward lift when the thing is unfolding itself from "floor flat." It gets better the higher it lifts, which is fine, as the vehicle's suspension is unloading itself for a few inches. But this is where mine got sticky going down.
They say frequent use keeps it in better shape. Infrequent hobby use isn't great.
As far as actual use, it's heavenly. I store them upright, leaning against a wall in winter to keep salty car water off of them. Great for my Miata, Camrys, Prii. Also used it under my Bronco II. Can do exhaust work-- always seems to be something at the rear cat flange that's at the exact center of the car. Can do brake lines that are inside a frame rail. Can do undercoating. Can weld exhaust. I use unibody "frame rails" instead of pinch welds. They claim 21 inches of lift with mine, probably a little more with what you want. Great height, I can get good leverage and kick myself around on a creeper.
QuickJack implies that it's a lift but the paperwork says it's a jack. Despite the secure locking arms you're not supposed to go underneath, but rather add jack stands. Where? Seems weasely/ lawyer-y of them.
It would just be too much for the other things I do in there.If you are able to get a lift installed, and you have a garage, can afford it, etc., then get a lift
If the 4-post lift takes up too much space, would a 2-post lift work for you?
Well the four post lift would get everything off the ground much higher. I have the room for it, but I'll be honest I probably won't be doing a lot a large type maintenance that requires the 4 post over the next oh 30 years. Like dropping transmissions.Great thread for discussion. Looking at the pictures, surely a concern worth discussions is safety. How is safety compared to a four post lift would be one safety item to compare.
Next is maximum weight vs comfortable weight. Is a user comfortable using the lift at full max weight? If so, for how long? Lots of full size framed pickups and SUVs in in 6,000 lbs plus range..
Maybe so, but why don't they sell a quick-jack branded jack stand with the same paint scheme, and show photos of it as an "optional accessory"?They want you to place a underneath each QuickJack so if the lock bar fails the jack stand will keep it from collapsing.
Like anything else - you can find hazardous events on google …Great thread for discussion. Looking at the pictures, surely a concern worth discussions is safety. How is safety compared to a four post lift would be one safety item to compare.
Next is maximum weight vs comfortable weight. Is a user comfortable using the lift at full max weight? If so, for how long? Lots of full size framed pickups and SUVs in in 6,000 lbs plus range..
I'm just telling you what they told me when I asked.Maybe so, but why don't they sell a quick-jack branded jack stand with the same paint scheme, and show photos of it as an "optional accessory"?
Since the things are about a foot wide, and the instructions are to center them under a frame rail or pinch weld, I'm concerned about a "hinge failure" pretzeling the thing sideways. I don't know how a typical "saddle" style jack stand between the two "plates" would catch the car with it going sideways. It just seems like intentional design sabotage to have something that locks "securely" via built-in mechanical bar but they don't take that last little step to make it secure enough for a user to go under.
That's continuing my point-- they don't have any pictures or diagrams of what they think are best practices. They want me to use a special jack stand that isn't commercially available? Not to mention you're hoping vehicles have structurally sound quick jack lifting points and concurrent jack stand points while still giving you room to work.I'm just telling you what they told me when I asked.
Also you wouldn't use a saddle style jack stand. They QJ is very stable judging by the lack of complaints.
How is that a "special" jack stand? BMW uses pucks and for decades BMW owners have never had a problem finds a jack stand. The QJ uses the same lifting points as a regular jack/jack stand.That's continuing my point-- they don't have any pictures or diagrams of what they think are best practices. They want me to use a special jack stand that isn't commercially available? Not to mention you're hoping vehicles have structurally sound quick jack lifting points and concurrent jack stand points while still giving you room to work.
The QJ is stable if you get them exactly parallel. If you have them out of parallel the lifting forces and trigonometry pull them inward or outward.
Cribbing? I have that, PITA, plus you can't pull the tires.Like anything else - you can find hazardous events on google …
Personally - I’d wind up building wood stacks for under the tires …