Tell me about your Quickjacks

ls1mike said:
Cribbing? I have that, PITA, plus you can't pull the tires.
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Some people are using these tires on … I just go up 4 ramps when doing fluids etc - but I don’t have anything bigger planned with 3/4 of mine being 4WD - and the oldest has a 4” lift kit … Rubicon sits up too … Seems your Vette/cars would be the big gainers …
 
What about a MaxJax?
https://www.bendpak.com/maxjax/?gad...5kuYl7IqNbAlLeCjg7_2AoxOZDc_EMBhoCwDYQAvD_BwE

FWIW, I've had a TLX5000 Quick Jack for about 5 years now and love it for getting all 4 wheels up for brake stuff, tire rotations, fluid changes where vehicle must be level etc. Raise them at least once a month and do all of the lubrication. No problems greasing with a pin point tip on the grease gun loaded with white lithium. Still tossing idea around about using self tapping Zerks, but haven't gotten around to it or felt the need. Usually leave them on the garage floor and drive over them (not ON them), except when I need to clean the floor occasionally and just lean against the wall. Cars have always been stable when lifted and never any issues about getting underneath with the lock-bars in place. If God wants me back, and the lock-bars fail, then at least my life insurance is paid up 😁.
 
shortyb said:
What about a MaxJax?
https://www.bendpak.com/maxjax/?gad...5kuYl7IqNbAlLeCjg7_2AoxOZDc_EMBhoCwDYQAvD_BwE

FWIW, I've had a TLX5000 Quick Jack for about 5 years now and love it for getting all 4 wheels up for brake stuff, tire rotations, fluid changes where vehicle must be level etc. Raise them at least once a month and do all of the lubrication. No problems greasing with a pin point tip on the grease gun loaded with white lithium. Still tossing idea around about using self tapping Zerks, but haven't gotten around to it or felt the need. Usually leave them on the garage floor and drive over them (not ON them), except when I need to clean the floor occasionally and just lean against the wall. Cars have always been stable when lifted and never any issues about getting underneath with the lock-bars in place. If God wants me back, and the lock-bars fail, then at least my life insurance is paid up 😁.
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I laughed pretty hard at that last sentence. I should have died in the 90s on a submarine so everyday I am here is extra. I wasn't considering a 2 post because I don't belive my slab to be thick enough.
 
I use my BL-7000SLX with extensions to lift our 2016 Suburban to rotate the tires. I don't get under it. Used it when I had my Cruze diesel as well as on my daughters 23 Kia Sportage. Works well for me for basic tire rotations and shock/brake work.
quickjack.webp
 
Isn't part of the value proposition on these that they are supposed to be safer to work underneath the car than using jack stands?
 
I've been using my 5000TL for several years. I have to have snow tires so I have to change tires twice a year on both my cars. I've also been under all my cars with them many times. They're way safer than jack stands. They're a little finicky because they take up most of the space on the sides of the car, so you have to get under the car from the front or the back. But I've never seen any sign of unstable or sketchy behavior from them. I trust them way more than jack stands -- but even so, in the interest of staying alive, I still put a jack stand or an old car wheel under the car when I'm under there.
 
I've owned the 5000SLX QuickJack 110VAC kit for 8+ years.

I've worked underneath the car to do various jobs - upgrade exhausts, swap-out rear diffs, replace/install suspension components, change driveline fluids, etc. The lifting platforms are stable, and I ensure the lock arms are against their stops before going underneath the vehicle. I have jackstands that get placed under the vehicle for "just-in-case" failures, but if you take the time to set up the lifting platforms, ensuring they are squared-up and centered under the pinch weld lifting points (all my vehicles are uni-body), then even at the highest lift point, the vehicle is stable.

For instance, my latest use of QJs - installing a Borla exhaust on my Audi SQ5 Sportback:

a9978e64-6161-4705-94fe-9076098ea55e.jpg


One key lesson I learned, a.k.a. "Pro tip" - after all other connections are made, before connecting the last quick-disconnect (QD) to the Powerpack, plug in the Powerpack, depress "Down" to allow the pressure in the line to bleed-off to the reservoir, and then the QD will easy attach to the Powerpack fitting. Otherwise, you are fighting hydraulic pressure in the Powerpack supply lines while making the connection.
 
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B6_Dolphin said:
I've owned the 5000SLX QuickJack 110VAC kit for 8+ years.

I've worked underneath the car to do various jobs - upgrade exhausts, swap-out rear diffs, replace/install suspension components, change driveline fluids, etc. The lifting platforms are stable, and I ensure the lock arms are against their stops before going underneath the vehicle. I have jackstands that get placed under the vehicle for "just-in-case" failures, but if you take the time to set up the lifting platforms, ensuring they are squared-up and centered under the pinch weld lifting points (all my vehicles are uni-body), then even at the highest lift point, the vehicle is stable.

For instance, my latest use of QJs - installing a Borla exhaust on my Audi SQ5 Sportback:


One key lesson I learned, a.k.a. "Pro tip" - after all other connections are made, before connecting the last quick-disconnect (QD) to the Powerpack, plug in the Powerpack, depress "Down" to allow the pressure in the line to bleed-off to the reservoir, and then the QD will easy attach to the Powerpack fitting. Otherwise, you are fighting hydraulic pressure in the Powerpack supply lines while making the connection.
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Yes, it's a very important thing to find out, otherwise it can be almost impossible to get the lines back together!

For me though, I just leave them plugged in all the time, and push the two jacks together so I can drive my car into the garage and park over them. I never drive on them, just put the car over them. Put the hydraulic pump at the front of the car and then you never have to plug the cables in.
 
Hohn said:
At $2100 it would not take long for them to pay for themselves if it kept you DiY for another 5-10 years vs dealer or shop..
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I agree. It will pay for itself when I do the harmonic balancer on my Corvette. I maintain 6 cars and do 99 percent of my own maintenance. I should have gotten something like this years ago.
 
I just bought the 8000TLX. Good to know about the back order. I wanted a 2 post. Had one picked out.

But cable tensioned shop slab that needs to be verified for thickness/cable location. Also not enough ceiling height away from the roof peak. My garage door tracks would need to be redone as well. I'm pretty spry for my age at 64. But probably at the age where by the time I get a 2 post finalized I'll be too old to use it...... :LOL:

Edit: The cost of permits where I live are prohibitive to change the shop for a 2 post.

So Quick Jack it is. Maybe investing in the 3rd, and 4th floor jack might not have been the wisest investment.
 
oilboy123 said:
I just bought the 8000TLX. Good to know about the back order. I wanted a 2 post. Had one picked out.

But cable tensioned shop slab that needs to be verified for thickness/cable location. Also not enough ceiling height away from the roof peak. My garage door tracks would need to be redone as well. I'm pretty spry for my age at 64. But probably at the age where by the time I get a 2 post finalized I'll be too old to use it...... :LOL:

Edit: The cost of permits where I live are prohibitive to change the shop for a 2 post.

So Quick Jack it is. Maybe investing in the 3rd, and 4th floor jack might not have been the wisest investment.
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The TLX lifting spread was too large for the Corvette.
 
I have a 7000SLX with all the extra accessories, like the extensions for longer vehicles, the crossbar adapter for any vehicles with different lifting points, and the various blocks for all the types of lift points (regular, pinch weld, and truck) for a few years now. Probably ones of the best purchases if you work on vehicles frequently. I can have a vehicle up and ready to work on in a quarter of the time it takes to put one on jack stands, it isn't even a comparison how much better it is. I got mine on sale during black friday so I saved a lot of money over buying during non-sale times. I went with the SLX so I could use it on smaller vehicle like my Camaros but with the extension adapters you easily have the ability to lift long wheel base trucks and SUVs as well.

The only thing I would caution would be if you don't have a nice flat garage floor to use them on. They are heavy and if you are trying to push them around in gravel or any non-level surface you will probably have a lot of issues getting them into place.
 
Another "Pro Tip" on storing/hanging your QJ Lifting Platforms - the internet informed me recently that I was doing it wrong all these (9) years; the platforms should be resting on the floor when using the optional QJ-specific Mounting Hooks, so that not all the 70ish-lb weight of the platform is on the hook.

1772036234773.webp


My mounting hooks have two (2) 3" screws that were drilled into studs - never had an issue, so they are hung as pictured to this day. I have no issues lifting the platforms onto or off the hooks - if I do, it's time to start thinking about retiring from DIY work!
 
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