I use that particular product myself, so I pointed it out. Other companies may take the same product and re-label it for different purposes, some calling it "brake lubricant" in one bottle and "anti-seize" in another bottle. I think it's Permatex that has an anti-seize product that's for metal-to-metal brake use only (pad ears, etc).
Tapered Pad Wear
- Thread starter The Critic
- Start date
They call it brake lube, so by them, it's not just a normal antiseize compound for bolts and nuts.
However... I don't use it on my brake jobs.
That one that hardens rubber?
They call it "Anti-Seize Brake Lube". At least be accurate....
No. Reading comprehension issues ? I specifically referred to "metal to metal" use as their instructions say. Some manufacturers say their product can be used on metal-to-metal, back of pads, slide pins, etc while some restrict it to certain uses.
No need to be rude. That product does harden the rubber, and people need to be aware of that, not everyone reads instructions.
I won't bother you anymore though.
I've used that before too
Until the bottle ran out, then I thought the higher temp nickel anti seize would be an improvement
My logic at the time was it was an improvement over the wheel bearing grease some block heads had told me to use
And the fact that I'm in the rust belt, exposed metal to metal = anti seize would be helpful?
The thought process was sound
Thanks to some pretty severe judgment right there, I'll be reevaluating the lube I use on brakes
I've got a wide selection of factory service manuals, let's see what they say to use
It may not have been right, but I've never had pads seize or bind up in the caliper bracket when using nickel anti seize
My brake failures are usually stuck piston, or failing boots contaminating silicone paste on the slide pins, causing irregular wear
They typically give a generic product/chemical name or they say to use "their" brand of lubricant. The FSM for my G35 says to use "copper based brake grease" on the caliper brackets/hardware and "rubber grease" on the slide pins. Honda says to use M-77 so other than buying it at the dealer, what's the aftermarket equivalent ? Who really knows...
We’ll see. I used a small acid brush and only applied a very thin film. I will recheck at the next service.
I cannot imagine this being worse than using M77 for this application- that one turns into a dry, tacky film after a few months.
Also, I read some old posts of Permatex purple being sticky/tacky. The tube that I just purchased has the consistency of silicone paste. Perhaps the formulation has changed?
The purple stuff we used to use on hubs (as a better alternative to anti seize) was tacky brand new as we brushed it out of the bottle. Way tackier when the vehicles came back for another brake job, but even initially it was tacky, certainly not like silicone paste.
In that case, I think the formula must have changed. I received this tube from Worldpac last week and the product is about the same thickness as the black CRC brake grease.
I used "the purple stuff" less than 2 months ago and it was not "tacky" at all. In fact, my tube of (Napa) Sil-Glyde is tackier than the Permatex stuff. It was very smooth and slippery. I suppose I'll check that vehicle later this year (after it cools down) and see how this stuff feels.
Smooth and slippery is what I observed as well. I think the formula must have changed.
Bumping this thread - car is at 195K, pads installed in post #20 have 48K.
The same issue has reoccurred - outboard pad on the left-rear caliper is wearing at a taper. One end of the pad is at 4mm, other end is at 7-8mm.
Everything slides freely, no serious burrs on the caliper carrier. Inboard pad on this same caliper is wearing perfectly.
Both pads on the right-rear caliper are wearing normally.
Any ideas? Would hate to recommend both a caliper and a caliper bracket since they're pricey.
The same issue has reoccurred - outboard pad on the left-rear caliper is wearing at a taper. One end of the pad is at 4mm, other end is at 7-8mm.
Everything slides freely, no serious burrs on the caliper carrier. Inboard pad on this same caliper is wearing perfectly.
Both pads on the right-rear caliper are wearing normally.
Any ideas? Would hate to recommend both a caliper and a caliper bracket since they're pricey.
Sounds like the piston may be binding...
But you could try replacing the bushings (sleeves), even though the pins slide freely the bushings may have softened to the point where they're not keeping the caliper parallel anymore.
I strongly recommend OEM, ATE 11.0101-5407.2 I believe, they have a nice cross reference on their parts catalogue.
Perhaps I’m confusing the terminology, you say the outboard pad, does that mean the pad that sits on the piston?
I would think the outboard pad is the one that is opposite of the piston in this case.
If it’s the same pad as originally, that sits on the caliper, then it’s a bit of a head scratcher.
The wear on the bracket may be the cause. Did you try dragging the pad in the bracket by hand to see if you can feel any significant resistance or hanging one you hit the wear spots?
Same pad as originally. Outboard pad is the pad that does not face the piston.
Piston and boots are in the same condition as the other side, no obvious issues.
something is allowing the caliper to flex, is all well on the knuckle? in my mind if the caliper goes off axis to the rotor, the pad on the piston will move with the rotor but the pad stuck to the caliper ears will not be able to follow the rotor. is the wheel bearing loose causing the rotor to go off axis instead?
Any update to as what the problem was?
No attempt was made to diagnose. It is due for another set of pads, but the car has over 200K at this point. Owner is considering trade-in. Despite this condition the rear pads still last 50-60K.
