Tapered Bearing torque

FCD

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I am replacing the front wheel bearings on my '88 Ford Escort, it uses tapered roller bearings, now i've always thought tapered bearings should basically only ever be tightened until snug.
But my Haynes manual says 150-174 lb/ft torque for the axle nuts, is this not a little crazy for tapered bearings?
 
I almost got caught out with this on a Euro Ford rear wheel bearing which were in the drum and also a tapered roller bearing. The book said 175nm but it felt much less when I took it apart.
It turns out when I asked at Ford they said if its a Mazda produced then yes 175 if its a Ford built rear axle is 40nm. My advise is ask at the ford dealer and have your VIN handy.
 
I'm like you. I always just snugged them up and checked for play. Eventually, I gave in to the "preload" thing and gave them an extra little bit. I NEVER had an issue with just snugging them, but could see the logic in the pre load.
If it didn't turn freely, it was too tight for me.
 
I'm like you. I always just snugged them up and checked for play. Eventually, I gave in to the "preload" thing and gave them an extra little bit. I NEVER had an issue with just snugging them, but could see the logic in the pre load.
If it didn't turn freely, it was too tight for me.
On trailers I did my own unscientific research and found that ANY preload applied with more than your fingers turning the nut causes the wb hub to be noticeably warm/hot (depends) to the touch after driving highway speeds with minimal braking.

Too warm? Eh, probably not, but I now seat the bearings with a ratchet then back the nut off and turn snug by hand. If the castle-ation dictates a LITTLE too snug or a LITTLE "clunk" I always opt for the latter.

Doing this my wb hubs are essentially ambient temp after highway speeds with minimal braking.

This is what I do for trailers, I'm not necessarily advocating for drive axles or passenger vehicles.
 
I am replacing the front wheel bearings on my '88 Ford Escort, it uses tapered roller bearings, now i've always thought tapered bearings should basically only ever be tightened until snug.
But my Haynes manual says 150-174 lb/ft torque for the axle nuts, is this not a little crazy for tapered bearings?

Do you have it apart already? That car uses a cartridge type bearing for the front, not individual tapered roller bearings which must be adjusted like on the rear.

The torque listed sounds correct for a FWD axle nut. The nut torque is clamping down on the inner bearing race only. The bearing is preset internally like someone else said.
 

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Do you have it apart already? That car uses a cartridge type bearing for the front, not individual tapered roller bearings which must be adjusted like on the rear.

The torque listed sounds correct for a FWD axle nut. The nut torque is clamping down on the inner bearing race only. The bearing is preset internally like someone else said.
he’s talking about the real ford escort

 
he’s talking about the real ford escort


Ah, ok. I’m guessing the bearing races are made so that when assembled, endplay will be correct.

As said above, probably safest to ask the dealer.
 
Ah, ok. I’m guessing the bearing races are made so that when assembled, endplay will be correct.

As said above, probably safest to ask the dealer.
I guess i'll give it a try but i am afraid my local dealer is completely clueless about anything pre-2000, i only go there anymore to get spark plugs and oil filters, which is pretty much all they sell anymore for an Escort lol
 
But yes i've already installed the new races and bearings, seals and everything, it's pretty much ready to go now, just trying to figure out how and how much to tighten them.
 
But yes i've already installed the new races and bearings, seals and everything, it's pretty much ready to go now, just trying to figure out how and how much to tighten them.
What I would do is gradually tighten the nut while spinning the wheel. If it’s like a rear wheel bearing that requires endplay adjustment, you’ll know almost right away. With even moderate torque applied the wheel will lock right up.
 
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Verify this is for the correct vehicle. Genuine Ford manual:

I believe what they’re calling “hub retaining nut” is the axle nut
 
If using new tapered wheel bearings and races, tighten so there is a SLIGHT amount of preload - they'll loosen up a bit in a few miles. When reusing old bearings, adjust to zero.
 
I am replacing the front wheel bearings on my '88 Ford Escort, it uses tapered roller bearings, now i've always thought tapered bearings should basically only ever be tightened until snug.
But my Haynes manual says 150-174 lb/ft torque for the axle nuts, is this not a little crazy for tapered bearings?

Tightening front taper rollers until snug i.e zero clearance is what you might do on a rear wheel drive car .

FWD cars have bearings with a spacer built in so they can be torqued down without excessively loading up the bearing. In this case a high tightening torque is appropriate.
 
I am replacing the front wheel bearings on my '88 Ford Escort, it uses tapered roller bearings, now i've always thought tapered bearings should basically only ever be tightened until snug.
But my Haynes manual says 150-174 lb/ft torque for the axle nuts, is this not a little crazy for tapered bearings?
Does this one have a large heavy washer behind the axle nut?
 
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