Take the chance - pour Kreen

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Yeah but you have no problem pushing the other snake oil right.
The other guy pushes Amsoil flush even though he is in England or LM but just for quick flushed.
What a bunch of tripe!


I hear ya
Don't use solvent snake oils,except for these 2 brands.
I figure it's gotta be hard talking from both sides of his mouth at the same time however he does make it look easy

 

[Trajan]

Originally Posted By: skyship
With a good marketing department you could get some vehicle owners to pour a can of vegetable oil into the engine, based on the firm belief that what's good for chips is good for your engine!
I do remember an old Perkins that had its oil topped up with veggie oil in a yacht, as the new crew chap did not know the engine oil and cooking oil were in the same locker and it was dark at the time. The engine went bang in a very permanent way and was followed by a terrible smell of cremated chips.


To quote a current kreen pusher: "If you are using a Synthetic oil leave the wizards in a bottle on the shelf if you are using anything less then yes they may be of some benefit but at the and of the day you are just trying to turn a dog into a fox."

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Yeah but you have no problem pushing the other snake oil right.
The other guy pushes Amsoil flush even though he is in England or LM but just for quick flushed.
What a bunch of tripe!


I don't push LM or Amsoil idle only flush additives, but they are the only two that seem to be used by the classic car or Porsch dealer garages in Germany. I've seen empty cans of LM flush in the Volvo dealer, although the local classic car inspector says he uses Amsoil flush. There must be other oil companies making idle only flushes and I'm sure there will be a list of related sites in Google.

 

[kr_bitog]

Actually one of the push factor to junk my old engine is because I tried Amsoil flush and MMO (at different time) it does not solve the oil consumption issue, and when Itry the LM equivalant (voltronic flush) the car suddenly just produce smoke screen during idle.
The engine itself is about 150 k km, with synthetic oil the whole life, no performance issue, only suddenly have oil consumption issue and later noise after I hit road debris.

IMO, Liquimoly Ceratec is not fantactic due to combustion chamber deposit issue, which require me to dump Regane/SI-I often to remove the ping. the MoS2 additive effect is fast gone after OCI, I am not saying Liquimoly is bad, but I do not find the value for the current price I pay and for Ceratec it may have some side effects.

Well will still monitor this Kreen, one thing I observe sometimes it made the idle a bit lower, but since it is only one day will need to see if that is coincident with the weather.
However, for noise, definitely this is huge improvement, compared with MMO or HM I used before.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
Actually one of the push factor to junk my old engine is because I tried Amsoil flush and MMO (at different time) it does not solve the oil consumption issue, and when Itry the LM equivalant (voltronic flush) the car suddenly just produce smoke screen during idle.
The engine itself is about 150 k km, with synthetic oil the whole life, no performance issue, only suddenly have oil consumption issue and later noise after I hit road debris.

IMO, Liquimoly Ceratec is not fantactic due to combustion chamber deposit issue, which require me to dump Regane/SI-I often to remove the ping. the MoS2 additive effect is fast gone after OCI, I am not saying Liquimoly is bad, but I do not find the value for the current price I pay and for Ceratec it may have some side effects.

Well will still monitor this Kreen, one thing I observe sometimes it made the idle a bit lower, but since it is only one day will need to see if that is coincident with the weather.
However, for noise, definitely this is huge improvement, compared with MMO or High Mileage I used before.


If you use a flush additive for an oil consumption issue you will make the problem worse. Sludge does not cause high oil consumption and assuming the cause was not a blocked crank case vent, the best move with a high time engine would be to use an High Mileage oil and pray it helps the seals. Moving up a grade from a 30 to a 40 can sometimes help.
There is a very minor chance Ceretec could cause spark plug fouling in a petrol engine with bad rings or valve guide oil seals. I would be surprised if it helped a fully synthetic oil achieve better UOA results.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
Actually one of the push factor to junk my old engine is because I tried Amsoil flush and MMO (at different time) it does not solve the oil consumption issue, and when Itry the LM equivalant (voltronic flush) the car suddenly just produce smoke screen during idle.
The engine itself is about 150 k km, with synthetic oil the whole life, no performance issue, only suddenly have oil consumption issue and later noise after I hit road debris.

IMO, Liquimoly Ceratec is not fantactic due to combustion chamber deposit issue, which require me to dump Regane/SI-I often to remove the ping. the MoS2 additive effect is fast gone after OCI, I am not saying Liquimoly is bad, but I do not find the value for the current price I pay and for Ceratec it may have some side effects.

Well will still monitor this Kreen, one thing I observe sometimes it made the idle a bit lower, but since it is only one day will need to see if that is coincident with the weather.
However, for noise, definitely this is huge improvement, compared with MMO or HM I used before.


You do need to get your engine inspected for damage, sludge and leaks, before playing with the snakes.

 

[kr_bitog]

Originally Posted By: skyship
Originally Posted By: kr_bitog
Actually one of the push factor to junk my old engine is because I tried Amsoil flush and MMO (at different time) it does not solve the oil consumption issue, and when Itry the LM equivalant (voltronic flush) the car suddenly just produce smoke screen during idle.
The engine itself is about 150 k km, with synthetic oil the whole life, no performance issue, only suddenly have oil consumption issue and later noise after I hit road debris.

IMO, Liquimoly Ceratec is not fantactic due to combustion chamber deposit issue, which require me to dump Regane/SI-I often to remove the ping. the MoS2 additive effect is fast gone after OCI, I am not saying Liquimoly is bad, but I do not find the value for the current price I pay and for Ceratec it may have some side effects.

Well will still monitor this Kreen, one thing I observe sometimes it made the idle a bit lower, but since it is only one day will need to see if that is coincident with the weather.
However, for noise, definitely this is huge improvement, compared with MMO or HM I used before.


You do need to get your engine inspected for damage, sludge and leaks, before playing with the snakes.


For me it is just pure economic sense, to inspect my old engine (means complete overhaul) and replace the part with uncertain result is costlier than changing the engine, so the additive I tried is just last try before junk the engine

Well, as usual in BITOG, we have seasonal popular item, but of course I am open to see the other's experience as well. I have read enough ARX, MMO, Kreen, Liquimoly, PU, Mobil 1, Castrol trend, but I just be honest to share what I observe.

I remember a few months ago someone promised to update on kreen, but it seems there is no news after that, wondering if the engine is already in junk yard ?

 

[kr_bitog]

Just quick update on my first start this morning, the engine sounds smooth like new engine, similar effect when I try LM Hydraulic Lifter Additive, but the difference Kreen is watery, the LM is thick, which enough to create different noise during startup until it mixes thoroughly with oil.

 

[skyship]

If you do not have a high oil consumption or leaks, but a serious hot rattle and what sounds like an out of balance shaft or crank problem above 3000 rpm, I would stay away from oil thinners of any type, just use a cheap 10/40 and as this is a terminal phase issue I would consider using half a can of Ceretec or Zinc additive each OCI and a full can of the lifter additive or other thickner, as it's cheaper than using a 10/60 grade race oil which is the other option.
The OCI should be kept short, perhaps 2.5K miles BUT there is no need to change the oil filter until 5K miles and because you might have an out of balance crank or something keep the revs below 3000 rpm.
The only reason I am suggesting using snake oil additives is that you might not be able to get a thicker race oil, but if you can get a 10/60 that is the real solution as the major brand ones will have lots of anti wear additives.
If you want to spend big bucks on oil to stop a hot rattle this is one typical race oil:
http://www.liqui-moly.us/liquimoly/produktdb.nsf/id/us_2024.html?Opendocument&land=US

BUT before you go buying more cans of snake oil or expensive race oil, do check that the engine mounts and exhaust manifold are secure, because some high rpm or engine rattles can be caused by non main block problems. Some aux belt systems like the alternator can also make rattles when their bearings or tensioner are failing.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: skyship
I would consider using half a can of Ceretec or Zinc additive each OCI and a full can of the lifter additive or other thickner, as it's cheaper than using a 10/60 grade race oil which is the other option.


I see, so you pick and choose your snake oils. But when someone here recommends some with proven track records you frown upon it, and lecture them on reading their owners manual. So what's it going to be, Skyship approved snake oils are OK? Or only use snake oils tested and approved by skyship? LOL Happy New Year!

 

[HerrStig]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Same old blather.

And are Stigg and Skyship a team now?
Yup, and I only get about 300K out of Toyota motors without mousemilk.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Same old blather.

And are Stigg and Skyship a team now?
Yup, and I only get about 300K out of Toyota motors without mousemilk.


Good for you.

I get 400k miles out of 6 liter V8's in the hardest duty cycle on the planet.

As I have said before in other threads about aftermarket additives: there are millions of cars times millions of drivers times millions of different duty cycles which means no one oil can possibly serve them all well.

You do the math.

And Skyship is really getting more entertaining with his selective snake oil theories! Some are okay but others are not? C'mon, man, admit there is a place for these products in some vehicles.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Same old blather.

And are Stigg and Skyship a team now?
Yup, and I only get about 300K out of Toyota motors without mousemilk.


Good for you.

I get 400k miles out of 6 liter V8's in the hardest duty cycle on the planet.

As I have said before in other threads about aftermarket additives: there are millions of cars times millions of drivers times millions of different duty cycles which means no one oil can possibly serve them all well.

You do the math.

And Skyship is really getting more entertaining with his selective snake oil
theories! Some are okay but others are not? C'mon, man, admit there is a place for these products in some vehicles.

Hehehe.
Well if it makes any difference and adds to the drama I just seafoamed a 450k 305 in one of my work vans and surprisingly enough it cured the high idle it was experiencing for the last 50k.
Naysayers be darned. 7 bucks for a can of seafoam or 250 for a new sensor.

 

[LeakySeals]

Originally Posted By: Clevy
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: SteveSRT8
Same old blather.

And are Stigg and Skyship a team now?
Yup, and I only get about 300K out of Toyota motors without mousemilk.


Good for you.

I get 400k miles out of 6 liter V8's in the hardest duty cycle on the planet.

As I have said before in other threads about aftermarket additives: there are millions of cars times millions of drivers times millions of different duty cycles which means no one oil can possibly serve them all well.

You do the math.

And Skyship is really getting more entertaining with his selective snake oil
theories! Some are okay but others are not? C'mon, man, admit there is a place for these products in some vehicles.

Hehehe.
Well if it makes any difference and adds to the drama I just seafoamed a 450k 305 in one of my work vans and surprisingly enough it cured the high idle it was experiencing for the last 50k.
Naysayers be darned. 7 bucks for a can of seafoam or 250 for a new sensor.
It does add to the drama, and so will I. While I'm pro Kreen, I think Seafoam is the ultimate snake oil. Because people think that 1930's boat lube and fuel stabilizer cures the common cold. Mostly Pale Oil (lubricant), small amount of naphtha (mild cleaner at best), and IPA (fuel stabilizer). People choke the intake "seafoaming" with this brew, then rave about the results. The white smoke was not "all that carbon". It was a Pale Oil plume. If you "seafoamed", you fogged your O2 sensors and cat with lubricant, thats about it. In the gas the placebo of IPA boosted octane will disappear on the next tankful.

The chemistry does not support the claims, I'm calling Seafoam snake oil!

 

[Clevy]

Could be. I assume it cleaned whatever sensor was causing the high idle. I sprayed the intake and vacuum line. I didn't put in the fuel.
As far as octane boosting ability the tank on that van is 100 liters. I'd need to add seafoam by the gallon to affect the octane in the tank,which I didn't.
How long the idle will stay normal for has yet to be determined but assuming from the bottom end knock this van is making the sensor is the least of my worries.

As far as the seafoam smoke show I've done my mustang more than once. From experience only the first can smokes out the nieghbourhood. Every additional can after the first produces minimal smoke. Now I assume it's be ause the first can cleaned something,and the subsequent applications were a waste.
Just my personal experience with the product.
I can tell you adding it to the crankcase of my old Chrysler mini van eliminated a tick on the top end that I couldn't get rid of with any oil change,and the sludge in that van was so bad that I couldn't see the valve springs. A full can of seafoam mixed with co-op 0w-40 and that engine was spotless inside.
Again,just my experience with seafoam. If being snake oil means it cleans like it says it will then it is definitely the biggest snake oil on earth.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: skyship
I would consider using half a can of Ceretec or Zinc additive each OCI and a full can of the lifter additive or other thickner, as it's cheaper than using a 10/60 grade race oil which is the other option.


I see, so you pick and choose your snake oils. But when someone here recommends some with proven track records you frown upon it, and lecture them on reading their owners manual. So what's it going to be, Skyship approved snake oils are OK? Or only use snake oils tested and approved by skyship? LOL Happy New Year!


The OP is in South East Asia and trying to find a 10/60 race oil would not be easy and importing it would be too expensive, if he was in the US or EU I would have said that the best move would be to a 10/60 race oil and not mentioned safe snake oil use, but he is in a situation where he has no choice.
There are always exceptions to every rule and I would estimate that one per cent of snake oil additives sold are used correctly.

 

[Vikas]

I really tried to do objective study on Seafoam but were not able to achieve in conclusive data.

There are some snake oil for which objective data would be pretty much impossible to come by. In that situation, one has to go by personal results. For example, TC-W3 or FI system cleaners in the fuel. I have no way of measuring the objective results but subjectively, I do feel a difference. If somebody challenges me to provide the quantitative results for those two snake oils, I will have to take a pass.

 

[azsynthetic]

Originally Posted By: skyship

The OP is in South East Asia and trying to find a 10/60 race oil would not be easy and importing it would be too expensive, if he was in the US or EU I would have said that the best move would be to a 10/60 race oil and not mentioned safe snake oil use, but he is in a situation where he has no choice.
There are always exceptions to every rule and I would estimate that one per cent of snake oil additives sold are used correctly.


You assumed a lot of things then offered pointless opinions.

The OP can get Kreen which is a lot tougher to order and ship than any oils. Why is 10w60 oil better than "safe" snake oil or any snake oil for that matter? Show me one instant where the manufacturer of any 10w60 oil states that it will cure splash noise or knocking noise per the OP.

Your opinions are worthless because it is not even on topic. Your purpose seems to be promoting LM "safe" snake oil, whatever that is.

 

[skyship]

Originally Posted By: azsynthetic
Originally Posted By: skyship

The OP is in South East Asia and trying to find a 10/60 race oil would not be easy and importing it would be too expensive, if he was in the US or EU I would have said that the best move would be to a 10/60 race oil and not mentioned safe snake oil use, but he is in a situation where he has no choice.
There are always exceptions to every rule and I would estimate that one per cent of snake oil additives sold are used correctly.


You assumed a lot of things then offered pointless opinions.

The OP can get Kreen which is a lot tougher to order and ship than any oils. Why is 10w60 oil better than "safe" snake oil or any snake oil for that matter? Show me one instant where the manufacturer of any 10w60 oil states that it will cure splash noise or knocking noise per the OP.

Your opinions are worthless because it is not even on topic. Your purpose seems to be promoting LM "safe" snake oil, whatever that is.


I don't think the OP is importing anything, but has a variety of oils and additives available and I presume Kreen is one that is already in country.
The best bet for any hot rattle cause that is beyond economic repair is a thicker oil and 10/60 is safe to use in almost any engine. The OP has mentioned LM products are in country so that is why I gave the link to the race oil page, BUT any major brand 10/60 race oil would be worth trying as I have known it help with similar problems.
Only a snake oil additive company would make claims about curing engine problems, although High Mileage oil products do have some claims made about use for high time engines of a fairly mild nature. I have been surprised at how some problems can be solved by simply changing the oil type. High oil consumption, leaks and rattles that are beyond economic repair can all be helped by using an High Mileage oil, although I am against their use if your engine is not in poor condition.
If you don't have leaks or high oil consumption but have hot rattles, the use of a race oil is in fact a well known potential solution and anyone that knows about engines will not find that hard to understand and appreciate it is a better idea than using simple thickners that also raise the W rating as a side effect.

 

[Clevy]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
I really tried to do objective study on Seafoam but were not able to achieve in conclusive data.

There are some snake oil for which objective data would be pretty much impossible to come by. In that situation, one has to go by personal results. For example, TC-W3 or FI system cleaners in the fuel. I have no way of measuring the objective results but subjectively, I do feel a difference. If somebody challenges me to provide the quantitative results for those two snake oils, I will have to take a pass.


I've been using tc-w3 in the fuel of all our compressors and generators as well as my vehicles. As far as the vehicles go I can't tell on way or another if its doing anything however in our compressors and generators the guy who services our equipment has mentioned how clean and how well everything works. I guess he has to rebuild quite a few carbs every season but ours need nothing,and the only difference is me adding a few ounces of tc-w3 in every Jerry can.
And a gallon last me months so the 20 bucks it costs is peanuts compared to even a single carb issue. So I keep using it. Is it actually doing anything,my service guy seems to think so.