I only drive 6K per year so I changed the oil using conventional oil once a year.
I am switching to Mobil 1. How often do I change it? Thank you
I am switching to Mobil 1. How often do I change it? Thank you
Synthetic Oil Change Interval
- Thread starter jerseyguy123
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Once per year, or every 10k miles. Which ever comes first.
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Triple_Se7en
$50 Site Donor 2024
Depends on all the things you never mentioned here yet.
Vehicle and model
What year
What engine
Driving habits... is it driven short distances everyday...... long distances once a week?.... what?
We have members here who friend idles for two hours per day to stay warm. Miles may be low, but fuel dilution is very high. Someone like that is not a candidate for once a year OCIs.
You haven't given us any info yet.
Vehicle and model
What year
What engine
Driving habits... is it driven short distances everyday...... long distances once a week?.... what?
We have members here who friend idles for two hours per day to stay warm. Miles may be low, but fuel dilution is very high. Someone like that is not a candidate for once a year OCIs.
You haven't given us any info yet.
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Originally Posted by OilUzer
If not under severe driving conditions, i would go 4500-5K miles with dino and increase to 6500-7K miles with synthetic. This rule won't send ANY car to junkyard!
I'm not a fan of blanket statements, many of them used here can get you in trouble. Having said that, this one seems pretty good. When in doubt, get a UOA with the TBN, it eliminates guesswork.
If not under severe driving conditions, i would go 4500-5K miles with dino and increase to 6500-7K miles with synthetic. This rule won't send ANY car to junkyard!
I'm not a fan of blanket statements, many of them used here can get you in trouble. Having said that, this one seems pretty good. When in doubt, get a UOA with the TBN, it eliminates guesswork.
When you are close to one year it might be a good idea to sample the oil. I do the same thing with at older lady who is a tenant of mine.
i run Texas Refinery 15w40 PorSpec III with MOLY. She does like between 5-8k a year. I see it as a challenge to keep it going for her.
When i have time i wash it and wax it for her.
STEVEISTHEOILGUY.COM
i run Texas Refinery 15w40 PorSpec III with MOLY. She does like between 5-8k a year. I see it as a challenge to keep it going for her.
When i have time i wash it and wax it for her.
STEVEISTHEOILGUY.COM
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by OilUzer
If not under severe driving conditions, i would go 4500-5K miles with dino and increase to 6500-7K miles with synthetic. This rule won't send ANY car to junkyard!
I'm not a fan of blanket statements, many of them used here can get you in trouble. Having said that, this one seems pretty good. When in doubt, get a UOA with the TBN, it eliminates guesswork.
lol, you are absolutely right. I was getting kind of ready to be lectured by experts.
This was my oil stereotype response to a nonspecific oci question like if one of my family members asked that question
however, some may argue that I was kind of conservative but it's better to be safe!
Originally Posted by OilUzer
If not under severe driving conditions, i would go 4500-5K miles with dino and increase to 6500-7K miles with synthetic. This rule won't send ANY car to junkyard!
I'm not a fan of blanket statements, many of them used here can get you in trouble. Having said that, this one seems pretty good. When in doubt, get a UOA with the TBN, it eliminates guesswork.
lol, you are absolutely right. I was getting kind of ready to be lectured by experts.
This was my oil stereotype response to a nonspecific oci question like if one of my family members asked that question
Originally Posted by OilUzer
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by OilUzer
If not under severe driving conditions, i would go 4500-5K miles with dino and increase to 6500-7K miles with synthetic. This rule won't send ANY car to junkyard!
I'm not a fan of blanket statements, many of them used here can get you in trouble. Having said that, this one seems pretty good. When in doubt, get a UOA with the TBN, it eliminates guesswork.
lol, you are absolutely right. I was getting kind of ready to be lectured by experts.
This was my oil stereotype response to a nonspecific oci question like if one of my family members asked that question
however, some may argue that I was kind of conservative but it's better to be safe!
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by OilUzer
If not under severe driving conditions, i would go 4500-5K miles with dino and increase to 6500-7K miles with synthetic. This rule won't send ANY car to junkyard!
I'm not a fan of blanket statements, many of them used here can get you in trouble. Having said that, this one seems pretty good. When in doubt, get a UOA with the TBN, it eliminates guesswork.
lol, you are absolutely right. I was getting kind of ready to be lectured by experts.
This was my oil stereotype response to a nonspecific oci question like if one of my family members asked that question
Jerseyguy123:
Why the change? You will likely have to do annual change with the M1 as it is not a "magic" elixer.
Aslo, What you are currently using is not conventional oil No ILSAC oil are conventional. Unless your going AP, The M1 is not synthetic oil.
On a side note, any oil will start to loose detergent and contaminant suspension/containment properties and start varnishing BEFORE the TBN is depleted, so that's not the only indicator for a required OCI.
Why the change? You will likely have to do annual change with the M1 as it is not a "magic" elixer.
Aslo, What you are currently using is not conventional oil No ILSAC oil are conventional. Unless your going AP, The M1 is not synthetic oil.
On a side note, any oil will start to loose detergent and contaminant suspension/containment properties and start varnishing BEFORE the TBN is depleted, so that's not the only indicator for a required OCI.
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Just keep doing what your doing. Changing is probably going to net you a price increase yearly of $5-6 dollars with no real gain. Well, unless you plan on owning your car and driving it like you do for the next 40ish years....and then maybe the synthetic will have a benefit. But only maybe.
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I don't like blanket statements. As a default strategy use the Severe Service category in your owners manual using an oil of the correct grade and specification.
I also don't like using OLM's because as Demarpaint and I found out, Chrysler which is supposed to have one of the most accurate OLM's out there isn't conservative enough and the oil according to the UOA is showing signs of issues yet the OLM is not indicating the oil needs to be changed and this is happening in engines without mechanical faults so imagine if something minor was to stress the oil more than usual?
To extend out from a severe service recommendation or to check your OLM's OCI run a $10 UOA using a Wix 24077 kit from RockAuto and see what is proven safe for your application. WHY GUESS?
It is true you can go longer on a synthetic versus conventional but only if things condemning the oil earlier are not an issue and this is different for every application.
I also don't like using OLM's because as Demarpaint and I found out, Chrysler which is supposed to have one of the most accurate OLM's out there isn't conservative enough and the oil according to the UOA is showing signs of issues yet the OLM is not indicating the oil needs to be changed and this is happening in engines without mechanical faults so imagine if something minor was to stress the oil more than usual?
To extend out from a severe service recommendation or to check your OLM's OCI run a $10 UOA using a Wix 24077 kit from RockAuto and see what is proven safe for your application. WHY GUESS?
It is true you can go longer on a synthetic versus conventional but only if things condemning the oil earlier are not an issue and this is different for every application.
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Originally Posted by StevieC
I don't like blanket statements. As a default strategy use the Severe Service category in your owners manual using an oil of the correct grade and specification.
I also don't like using OLM's because as Demarpaint and I found out, Chrysler which is supposed to have one of the most accurate OLM's out there isn't conservative enough and the oil according to the UOA is showing signs of issues yet the OLM is not indicating the oil needs to be changed and this is happening in engines without mechanical faults so imagine if something minor was to stress the oil more than usual?
To extend out from a severe service recommendation or to check your OLM's OCI run a $10 UOA using a Wix 24077 kit from RockAuto and see what is proven safe for your application. WHY GUESS?
It is true you can go longer on a synthetic versus conventional but only if things condemning the oil earlier are not an issue and this is different for every application.
I found blanket statements can get "me" in trouble. Truth be told that's all the matters to "me."
I don't like blanket statements. As a default strategy use the Severe Service category in your owners manual using an oil of the correct grade and specification.
I also don't like using OLM's because as Demarpaint and I found out, Chrysler which is supposed to have one of the most accurate OLM's out there isn't conservative enough and the oil according to the UOA is showing signs of issues yet the OLM is not indicating the oil needs to be changed and this is happening in engines without mechanical faults so imagine if something minor was to stress the oil more than usual?
To extend out from a severe service recommendation or to check your OLM's OCI run a $10 UOA using a Wix 24077 kit from RockAuto and see what is proven safe for your application. WHY GUESS?
It is true you can go longer on a synthetic versus conventional but only if things condemning the oil earlier are not an issue and this is different for every application.
I found blanket statements can get "me" in trouble. Truth be told that's all the matters to "me."
Originally Posted by demarpaint
Originally Posted by StevieC
I don't like blanket statements. As a default strategy use the Severe Service category in your owners manual using an oil of the correct grade and specification.
I also don't like using OLM's because as Demarpaint and I found out, Chrysler which is supposed to have one of the most accurate OLM's out there isn't conservative enough and the oil according to the UOA is showing signs of issues yet the OLM is not indicating the oil needs to be changed and this is happening in engines without mechanical faults so imagine if something minor was to stress the oil more than usual?
To extend out from a severe service recommendation or to check your OLM's OCI run a $10 UOA using a Wix 24077 kit from RockAuto and see what is proven safe for your application. WHY GUESS?
It is true you can go longer on a synthetic versus conventional but only if things condemning the oil earlier are not an issue and this is different for every application.
I found blanket statements can get "me" in trouble. Truth be told that's all the matters to "me."
For sure.
Originally Posted by StevieC
I don't like blanket statements. As a default strategy use the Severe Service category in your owners manual using an oil of the correct grade and specification.
I also don't like using OLM's because as Demarpaint and I found out, Chrysler which is supposed to have one of the most accurate OLM's out there isn't conservative enough and the oil according to the UOA is showing signs of issues yet the OLM is not indicating the oil needs to be changed and this is happening in engines without mechanical faults so imagine if something minor was to stress the oil more than usual?
To extend out from a severe service recommendation or to check your OLM's OCI run a $10 UOA using a Wix 24077 kit from RockAuto and see what is proven safe for your application. WHY GUESS?
It is true you can go longer on a synthetic versus conventional but only if things condemning the oil earlier are not an issue and this is different for every application.
I found blanket statements can get "me" in trouble. Truth be told that's all the matters to "me."
For sure.
The OLM in my TB is using some sort of algorithm, it used to come on around the 12 - 13,000km mark and now I just change my oil around the 20-24,000km mark and I never seem to see the thing. I run what ever group 3 synthetic is on sale for a good price at the time and a Fram Ultra. It seems this mileage mark comes around the 1.5 year mark. It appears to be using a bit of oil between changes now, maybe half a litre by my approximation. 227,000km and going strong.
My old 2011 Ram 1500 would ding every 6 or so thousand KM. While I should have tested the oil before extending it out I just ran a good group 3 synthetic out 10-12,000km with a Fram Ultra changed every second oil change. Ran great for the 150,000 or so Km I owned it. No oil related issues ever.
The fancy OLM in my 3500 just counts down from 24,000km, regardless of use. The computer tracks all sorts of stuff, including mileage that a trailer is connected. Never made one difference on what the OLM wanted. Although the manual states a max of 24k, 500 hours or 6 months, whichever comes first. I go by mileage as I seem to hit that in under a year anyway.
My anecdotal advise: Go by mileage, not time. If you are piling on the short trips, not letting your engine get up to operating temp for decent amounts of time, just run shorter mileage indexes. Don't overthink it. Up here, your vehicle will long rot away before you run into any oil related failures.
My old 2011 Ram 1500 would ding every 6 or so thousand KM. While I should have tested the oil before extending it out I just ran a good group 3 synthetic out 10-12,000km with a Fram Ultra changed every second oil change. Ran great for the 150,000 or so Km I owned it. No oil related issues ever.
The fancy OLM in my 3500 just counts down from 24,000km, regardless of use. The computer tracks all sorts of stuff, including mileage that a trailer is connected. Never made one difference on what the OLM wanted. Although the manual states a max of 24k, 500 hours or 6 months, whichever comes first. I go by mileage as I seem to hit that in under a year anyway.
My anecdotal advise: Go by mileage, not time. If you are piling on the short trips, not letting your engine get up to operating temp for decent amounts of time, just run shorter mileage indexes. Don't overthink it. Up here, your vehicle will long rot away before you run into any oil related failures.
Originally Posted by Triple_Se7en
Depends on all the things you never mentioned here yet.
No, it really doesn't. OP already told you he changes conventional oil at one year/~6k. So since the OP hasn't made any additional "asks" or shared "complaints" with his current oil and results, you make the estimation that there is nothing that the OP is searching to "fix". So, if conventional has provided satisfactory results at 6k/1yr, it is probably just as safe and just as satisfactory to say if M1 says 1 year / 10k, there will be no issues going forward either. Even though M1 is not my personal preference, I agree with tig1 that you could probably run it the 16-18 months to hit 10k and change it then.
Depends on all the things you never mentioned here yet.
No, it really doesn't. OP already told you he changes conventional oil at one year/~6k. So since the OP hasn't made any additional "asks" or shared "complaints" with his current oil and results, you make the estimation that there is nothing that the OP is searching to "fix". So, if conventional has provided satisfactory results at 6k/1yr, it is probably just as safe and just as satisfactory to say if M1 says 1 year / 10k, there will be no issues going forward either. Even though M1 is not my personal preference, I agree with tig1 that you could probably run it the 16-18 months to hit 10k and change it then.
Originally Posted by nomas
My 2018 Nissan Titan manual recommends 0W-20 Synthetic oil and a flat 5k interval . No OLM . No viscosity charts . Just do it .
That's one the most conservative oci that I've heard specially with 0Wx20.
Very interesting!
typically you see 7500 or 10K miles with 0Wx20.
I know I should let the uoa decide, but it's hard for me to trust ANY oil for 10K.
How big is your sump?
My 2018 Nissan Titan manual recommends 0W-20 Synthetic oil and a flat 5k interval . No OLM . No viscosity charts . Just do it .
That's one the most conservative oci that I've heard specially with 0Wx20.
Very interesting!
typically you see 7500 or 10K miles with 0Wx20.
I know I should let the uoa decide, but it's hard for me to trust ANY oil for 10K.
How big is your sump?
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