Synthetic choices for my RX8
- Thread starter Leo
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Don't be fooled by Idemitsu. They make good oils but their rotary oil is just a marketing ploy. Sorry to bust the bubble. Smart move to target the niche full of fearmongers.
Nope, an oil extractor won't help.
Is Penrite available? Why not just use their HPR or SIN oils? Seems like another easy possibly locally available choice.
Leo, is yours a manual or automatic? Do you have single or dual oil coolers?
BTW, if oil consumption is low, AND MPG is high, you're not driving it to last long. Its a rotary. Be gentle to it when cold. After warm up, drive it like you stole it.
Since carbon buildup is a common enough issue, a bottle of FI cleaner prior to each oil change should be considered.
Nope, an oil extractor won't help.
Is Penrite available? Why not just use their HPR or SIN oils? Seems like another easy possibly locally available choice.
Leo, is yours a manual or automatic? Do you have single or dual oil coolers?
BTW, if oil consumption is low, AND MPG is high, you're not driving it to last long. Its a rotary. Be gentle to it when cold. After warm up, drive it like you stole it.
Since carbon buildup is a common enough issue, a bottle of FI cleaner prior to each oil change should be considered.
I'd skip the full synthetic unless they were Group IIIs like Pennzoil (15W-50 might be a nice fit) or QS purchased on sale or with a rebate...
In any case, I know the ol' RX7s always wanted 20W-50 (a few people I know like Valvoline VR1) or maybe 15W-40 in hotter temps, and 10W-40 (I think, but I'd have to check) when fall comes around...
But the newer rotary engines might require a thinner oil.
In any case, I know the ol' RX7s always wanted 20W-50 (a few people I know like Valvoline VR1) or maybe 15W-40 in hotter temps, and 10W-40 (I think, but I'd have to check) when fall comes around...
But the newer rotary engines might require a thinner oil.
Quote:
Hi guys,
I'm a owner of an new Rx8 and shes done about 2000 miles and I'm ready to change her over to a synthetic. I'm undecided on which synth I should uses mainly because as you would know, the rotary injects some of the oil into the engine to lubricate the seals so a cleaner burning oil would be desirable. Right now I premix 300:1 with Castrol TTS (Synthetic 2 stroke oil). I've narrowed it down to the following in xxW-30 viscocities -
-Redline (may produce a bit of ash?)
-Castrol Syntec GC 0W30
-M1 EP (same price as GC)
-Royal Purple (a bit of a contriversial option)
-Amsoil
What do you people suggest? I'm leaning towards GC right now. However is it
Thanks in advance...
Leo
PS - I don't want a debate about mineral vs synthetics in the RX8!
Royal Purple has a FAQ on rotary engine oil. Pretty informative i think.
RP FAQ
Leo, I just realised you are in the land down under. Seeing how you are their I would consider Penrite and Delvac-1. I would not use any oil that was not PAO or Ester based. I do not think a GIII is a good idea on this engine simply becuase of the partial oil change situation.I do not think ash would be a problem with Amsoil HDD.
Quote:
Quote:
Hi guys,
I'm a owner of an new Rx8 and shes done about 2000 miles and I'm ready to change her over to a synthetic. I'm undecided on which synth I should uses mainly because as you would know, the rotary injects some of the oil into the engine to lubricate the seals so a cleaner burning oil would be desirable. Right now I premix 300:1 with Castrol TTS (Synthetic 2 stroke oil). I've narrowed it down to the following in xxW-30 viscocities -
-Redline (may produce a bit of ash?)
-Castrol Syntec GC 0W30
-M1 EP (same price as GC)
-Royal Purple (a bit of a contriversial option)
-Amsoil
What do you people suggest? I'm leaning towards GC right now. However is it
Thanks in advance...
Leo
PS - I don't want a debate about mineral vs synthetics in the RX8!
Royal Purple has a FAQ on rotary engine oil. Pretty informative i think.
RP FAQ
The old Mobil1 site said you could use 15W-50 in the rotary engines with no problems...
But I'd rather use a thicker conventional oil and change it more frequently in that application...
M1 5w-20 and per Dr. Haas too!the grade anyway! thinner *is* better w/ or w/o UOAs.
Why not use a good quality dino oil, particularly if you are not going to run any type of extended drain intervals and you are careful about checking the oil level. My only concern is IF you ever had an engine problem, Mazda will likely nix any warranty claim due to using the synthetic oil. I just would be concerned about setting myself up for warranty problems. You don't want to give them a reason to deny a claim, if it ever came up. Just my .02.
I'm on my fourth year with my '8 as a daily driver, premixing since Day One.
unDummy summed it up very well - as you see from the manual, you can just use 'whatever' in the engine.
The real engine-saver is your pre-mix, the injection system on the RX-8 was calibrated way too conservatively to protect the sprayed-in lining on the rotor housings.
The only improvement you could make after pre-mix would be to add the Sohn Adapter, that lets you burn two-stroke instead of dirty engine oil. The RX-8 forums have all the details.
.
.
doc
unDummy summed it up very well - as you see from the manual, you can just use 'whatever' in the engine.
The real engine-saver is your pre-mix, the injection system on the RX-8 was calibrated way too conservatively to protect the sprayed-in lining on the rotor housings.
The only improvement you could make after pre-mix would be to add the Sohn Adapter, that lets you burn two-stroke instead of dirty engine oil. The RX-8 forums have all the details.
.
.
doc
THAT sounds very smart.
Thanks for the input guys!
I've decided to go with GC 0w30 as I can order it via the net! The GC is about AUD$11/L and a decent dino is still about AUD$7/L so I believe the GC is worth the extra cost. D1 is too hard to find here and also it has a higher ash content.
I think if there is any warranty claim how would they know the oil is synthetic, and what would stop me from draining the oil before I would take it in? Sounds dodgy I know but I still find it hard to believe that synthetics are causing problems.
As for the OMP Sohn adapter I do like the idea very much but because I'm still forced to go to the $tealership for the next 3 days, I don't want to remove it every time I go for a service!
Btw this car is a 6 port, 6 speed manual with only 1 oil cooler. (Nuts!)
I've decided to go with GC 0w30 as I can order it via the net! The GC is about AUD$11/L and a decent dino is still about AUD$7/L so I believe the GC is worth the extra cost. D1 is too hard to find here and also it has a higher ash content.
I think if there is any warranty claim how would they know the oil is synthetic, and what would stop me from draining the oil before I would take it in? Sounds dodgy I know but I still find it hard to believe that synthetics are causing problems.
As for the OMP Sohn adapter I do like the idea very much but because I'm still forced to go to the $tealership for the next 3 days, I don't want to remove it every time I go for a service!
Btw this car is a 6 port, 6 speed manual with only 1 oil cooler. (Nuts!)
Thanks for the input guys!
I've decided to go with GC 0w30 as I can order it via the net! The GC is about AUD$11/L and a decent dino is still about AUD$7/L so I believe the GC is worth the extra cost. D1 is too hard to find here and also it has a higher ash content.
I think if there is any warranty claim how would they know the oil is synthetic, and what would stop me from draining the oil before I would take it in? Sounds dodgy I know but I still find it hard to believe that synthetics are causing problems.
As for the OMP Sohn adapter I do like the idea very much but because I'm still forced to go to the $tealership for the next 3 years, I don't want to remove it every time I go for a service!
Btw this car is a 6 port, 6 speed manual with only 1 oil cooler. (Nuts!)
I've decided to go with GC 0w30 as I can order it via the net! The GC is about AUD$11/L and a decent dino is still about AUD$7/L so I believe the GC is worth the extra cost. D1 is too hard to find here and also it has a higher ash content.
I think if there is any warranty claim how would they know the oil is synthetic, and what would stop me from draining the oil before I would take it in? Sounds dodgy I know but I still find it hard to believe that synthetics are causing problems.
As for the OMP Sohn adapter I do like the idea very much but because I'm still forced to go to the $tealership for the next 3 years, I don't want to remove it every time I go for a service!
Btw this car is a 6 port, 6 speed manual with only 1 oil cooler. (Nuts!)
The deposits from some synthetic basestocks will leave harder deposits than mineral oil. I really don't know anything about rotary engines except the Mazda goes Spppppppppppppph !!!!
There must be a reason for the oil recommendation I remember reading all the design problems to get the engines working well in the "I can't remember exactly" early 70's. Off topic I got a ride in the Mazda rotary pickup when they first came out .They really were fast.
Spppph? It was Hmmmm
My mom used to have an old Mazda rotary in the 70's, she really liked it and it never gave her any trouble.
with out a muffler.
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