Synthetic 20W-50

C

cdlamb

Joined
Jul 9, 2018
Messages
320
Location
SK, Canada
I recently purchased a Cub Cadet Z-Force SX Zero turn mower.

It has the Kawasaki FR730V Engine.
They are an air cooled engine, with a 2.2 liter oil capacity, & no oil cooler.

I think I am looking for an engine oil with a good HTHS quality.

Has anyone used the Valvoline SynPower Motor Oil 20W50 Full Synthetic motor oil? It has the API rating SP, which should exceed the SF-SL recommendations listed.

I don't see any oil analysis reports for this oil in its Virgin state.

Any other oil recommendations in a 20W-50 weight (or other) I should consider?
I would prefer to run a synthetic, but maybe just as well with a conventional oil being it wont be getting extreme engine hours in a typical year.

It is being stored indoors in a heated garage so a heavier weight oil isn't a big concern.
Just looking for others thoughts, have heard of complaints with these engine starting to burn oil if using a lighter weight oil.




1711743282195.webp
 
Just use whatever thicker oil. i use Super Tech 15w40 for the engine and Super Tech 20w-50 in the hydrostat. I can run it for 2 hours straight in the summer on my small farm but at home it would only run for like 30 mins so a thinner oil would be fine.
 
I have a 33 hp with about the same oil capacity and a 10w30 FS is okay but I use what I have..usually a FS or SS 10w40.. Works well.
I have tried 20w50 but I didn't like it and to avoid drama I'll leave it at that.
And I mow over 50 acres a week.. I run an old Fram Ultra for the filter
 
Pablo said:
Mine (Kawasaki) doesn't consume any 10w30. I really say you shouldn't even need a 10W-40.

Why not a 15W-50?

https://www.amsoil.com/c/4-stroke-power-equipment/12/?zo=515729
Click to expand...
A 15W-50 would probably be as well as a 20W-50.
A 10W-40 would probably be fine too. Just thought the 50 would have a higher HTHS rating.

20W-50 gets me down to freezing temps. I will not have a need to start it at these temperatures, & if I do it will be in a heated structure.
 
Probably go with this one.
cant seem to find specs on the SynPower. Maybe the same stuff.
20w-50 gives me a wide range of temps, and should have lots high enough HTHS.
Might go back to the dealer and see what they have to offer.



1711751585825.webp
 
Last edited:
I've used it in hydros, as well as Kawasaki and the Toro/Exmark Chonda V-Twins. Runs smooth and always looks good after draining it each season with no consumption. I have a neighbor and a friend with a tree farm who only use 20w50 in their machines.
 
Mobil 1 15W-50 is well known for protecting hard working air cooled engines perfectly. It's available for a reasonable price in 5 quart jugs at WalMart. Finding a synthetic 20W-50 for a similar price is not going to be easy.

The synthetic diesel oils are also very good choices. Rotella T6, 5W-40 is a robust oil, and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w40 is even more so. Both will perform similarly in your engine, handle the heat and keep the internals spotless.
 
I'm glad I can tag along with this thread because I was about to post the same question.

I have same engine with 3.7 hours, plan on doing first change at 5 hours. Is the "don't use synthetic during break-in" still applicable or should I ignore that?

Between affordable local and online options I've found these:

Mobil1 15w-50 ($25 / 5 quarts)
Mystik / Rural King 15w-50 Syn Blend rated CI-4+, SL ($20/gallon)
Kawasaki or Briggs Synthetic 15w-50 (=$$$$$)
Amsoil as Pablo mentioned, but I'd like to somehow stay under $8 a quart which I doubt is possible with shipping
Valvoline Racing 20w-50 is out there, but I think it's a high zinc formula, doubt I need that
Or a run of the mill Synthetic (or non) (1)5w-40 HDEO.

I'm stuck on which to choose. This time of year I'm mowing in sweltering 90 degree temps, usually plenty humid (which the mower probably doesn't care about).
 
92saturnsl2 said:
I'm glad I can tag along with this thread because I was about to post the same question.

I have same engine with 3.7 hours, plan on doing first change at 5 hours. Is the "don't use synthetic during break-in" still applicable or should I ignore that?

Between affordable local and online options I've found these:

Mobil1 15w-50 ($25 / 5 quarts)
Mystik / Rural King 15w-50 Syn Blend rated CI-4+, SL ($20/gallon)
Kawasaki or Briggs Synthetic 15w-50 (=$$$$$)
Amsoil as Pablo mentioned, but I'd like to somehow stay under $8 a quart which I doubt is possible with shipping
Valvoline Racing 20w-50 is out there, but I think it's a high zinc formula, doubt I need that
Or a run of the mill Synthetic (or non) (1)5w-40 HDEO.

I'm stuck on which to choose. This time of year I'm mowing in sweltering 90 degree temps, usually plenty humid (which the mower probably doesn't care about).
Click to expand...

Mobil 1 15w-50 and call it done. If your hydros use the same weight, you can have one fluid for everything.
 
Zee09 said:
I have a 33 hp with about the same oil capacity and a 10w30 FS is okay but I use what I have..usually a FS or SS 10w40.. Works well.
I have tried 20w50 but I didn't like it and to avoid drama I'll leave it at that.
And I mow over 50 acres a week.. I run an old Fram Ultra for the filter
Click to expand...
I agree that a thicker oil is not needed. I run Mobil 1 10w30 (or 5w30 if 10 isn't available) in all my OPE and works well in the Texas heat. I think the OP being in Canada woud be fine as well with a 30wt SYN.
 
GMBoy said:
I agree that a thicker oil is not needed. I run Mobil 1 10w30 (or 5w30 if 10 isn't available) in all my OPE and works well in the Texas heat. I think the OP being in Canada woud be fine as well with a 30wt SYN.
Click to expand...
At some point Kawasaki issued a dealer bulletin recommending the thicker oils after so many experienced oil burning (and often warranty returns) running the 30 weights that were recommended at the time. I would tread carefully running Xw-30 on a residential grade Kawasaki w/ no oil cooler. I asked the dealer that sold me my machine and they said nearly all the commercial guys run 15w-50 but they recommend 10w-40 for home use and that's what they use for initial fill.

I see nothing special about Kawasaki's K-Tech oil. PDS says it's made by Citgo. I'm guessing it's very similar to Mystik products which are also made by Citgo.
 
92saturnsl2 said:
At some point Kawasaki issued a dealer bulletin recommending the thicker oils after so many experienced oil burning (and often warranty returns) running the 30 weights that were recommended at the time. I would tread carefully running Xw-30 on a residential grade Kawasaki w/ no oil cooler. I asked the dealer that sold me my machine and they said nearly all the commercial guys run 15w-50 but they recommend 10w-40 for home use and that's what they use for initial fill.

I see nothing special about Kawasaki's K-Tech oil. PDS says it's made by Citgo. I'm guessing it's very similar to Mystik products which are also made by Citgo.
Click to expand...
Good point. It does depend on application and with what you just said means a thicker oil is the way to go in this case.
 
You are in Saskatchewan Canadian?

What will the outside temperature be while you are mowing?

How long will the mower be running to complete the job?

Unless you are mowing in close to 100 degrees (38 Celsius) or will be running many hours straight on 90 degree days I probably wouldn't start with a xxW50 weight oil.

I would get something like a 15W40 HDEO - take your pick there are a bunch of different brands, Shell, Chevron, Mobil.

I like the synthetic blends. Take Chevron Delo ($3.87 a quart) or Mobil Delvac ($3.60 a quart) at Walmart US$ - you see them on sale all the time.

I would rather use a less than $4 a quart synthetic blend oil and change more often VS a full synthetic that will be 50% more $. Better bang for my buck.

Then monitor the oil level closely - if you are not burning any oil after break in then stick with the 15W40.

Only reason to use the 50 weight is if you are burning oil.


I picked up a 20W50 last summer and tried it in my pressure washer forecast was for temps over 100, and I was going to running all day with not many breaks. I still have enough to fill it one more time - but after than I am going to straight 30 or 15W40.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

B
Kawasaki FR651-V Oil
2
Replies
36
Views
1K
borgward
D
Oil recommendation needed for Van-air w/ Kohler CH18
2
Replies
23
Views
814
Sam_Julier
A
How bad can oil get in the sump during winter 7 months?
Replies
11
Views
1K
Cujet
F
Older Kohler K17 using oil
2
Replies
26
Views
398
kschachn
A
Husqvarna MZ-61 with ZT-3100 transaxle oil change question
2
Replies
20
Views
477
Opelman
Back
Top Bottom