Kawasaki fr730v break in filter cut open

[Sumo91]

Just changed the oil on my Cub cadet Z force sx 60 with the Kawasaki fr730v

5hrs on oil and filter
Oil weight and brand was unknown

Lots of tiny flakes of metal, which is expected for break in. The manual states not to change the filter for 25 or 50 hrs (I forget) but since I was putting in 20w50, I wanted to make sure I wasn't mixing viscosities by leaving the old filter on.

 

[#18FAN]

What brand 20w50 you going with alog with what filter.

 

[Sumo91]

What brand 20w50 you going with alog with what filter.

HPL 20w50 is what I put in it.

 

[bchannell]

I believe I would contact Kawasaki technical, that seems to me like a lot of big debris, and they ought to know about it. I've seen flakes, but nothing like that.

 

[Cujet]

That looks normal. I'm not at all sure I'd use a conventional 20-50 in that engine. Why not a 5W-40 synthetic? Engines on mowers really don't work all that hard.

 

[Brian123]

That looks normal. I'm not at all sure I'd use a conventional 20-50 in that engine. Why not a 5W-40 synthetic? Engines on mowers really don't work all that hard.

I think he is using HPL which is probably synthetic. I have always blown my mowers off after each use and always used 10W-30 synthetic oil and my oil temps in 100 degree weather have been around 214 Degrees. I really do not see the need for a 20W-50 oil, and there are times where going to thick is not beneficial.

 

[Sumo91]

That looks normal. I'm not at all sure I'd use a conventional 20-50 in that engine. Why not a 5W-40 synthetic? Engines on mowers really don't work all that hard.

The manual states I can use 20w50 down to 32°F, after lots of research on this particular engine, lots of people have oil burning issues using lower viscosity oils (not everyone of course, but enough that I opted for 20w50) Over the years Kawasaki has steadily increased the recommended oil viscosity due to this issue.

HPL isn't convential oil, they're synthetic. Lots of info on this website about them, they're a site sponsor as well. According the PDS on this particular oil, it has a pour point of -51°F. It also has lots of esters which keep this engine nice and clean, and also tons of moly, which I'm a huge fan of. I wanted to start off on the right foot with a great oil.

 

[Sumo91]

I believe I would contact Kawasaki technical, that seems to me like a lot of big debris, and they ought to know about it. I've seen flakes, but nothing like that.

It looks normal to me for break in, ill be opening up the next few filters as well. Remember that this filter material is only about 1 inch wide, so the flakes that are present aren't big at all.

 

[Trav]

+1 That looks normal, you should have seen my snow blower after the first hour of running, lots of crap in there. It is over 15 years old now and no problems or measurable oil use, I change the oil every 2 or 3 years with Castrol 0w30 Euro or Mobil 1 0w40.

 

[#18FAN]

The manual states I can use 20w50 down to 32°F, after lots of research on this particular engine, lots of people have oil burning issues using lower viscosity oils (not everyone of course, but enough that I opted for 20w50) Over the years Kawasaki has steadily increased the recommended oil viscosity due to this issue.

HPL isn't convential oil, they're synthetic. Lots of info on this website about them, they're a site sponsor as well. According the PDS on this particular oil, it has a pour point of -51°F. It also has lots of esters which keep this engine nice and clean, and also tons of moly, which I'm a huge fan of. I wanted to start off on the right foot with a great oil.



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It’s a great choice I’d run it with full confidence and gathering all information I also agree Kawasaki has updated it’s viscosity requirements.