Syntec 0W30 (GC) vs. M1 0W30 Enhancd Fuel Economy

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German Castrol (Syntec 0W30 'European Formula') vs. Mobil 1 0W30 Enhanced Fuel Economy Formula (green cap). Both are $6.99/qt @ Autozone. Which would you choose?
 
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It depends on your application. The two oils are quite different (despite the same "advertised" viscosity). Not too long ago Mobil 1 0W-30 European Formula (similar to GC) was widely available in the US, but it has been replaced by 0W-30 Advanced Fuel Economy formula. I can assure you they are quite different oils, with substantially different certifications. Check the certifications for your engine before deciding on which one to use. If you have a typical American or Japanese engine that calls for 5W-20 or 5W-30, then the Mobil 1 0W-30 is probably the correct oil. If you have an engine that requires ACEA: A3, B3, B4; VW 502 00, 505 00, 503 01; MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.5; BMW LL-01; GMLLA- 025, GM-LL-B-025 and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils, then choose Castrol Syntec 0W-30 (GC). Note that GC is not GF-4 certified for maximum fuel economy.
 
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I would also note that you can get 5 quart jugs of M1 0W-30 at most Walmart Supercenters (at least the ones in my area carry it) for $26.00. That of course assumes you don't need the GC certifications for German engines lsited above (or that you don't have a turbo of any kind).
 
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As a GC user, here's how I look at it. M1 0W-30 AFE is just that, an oil that has been engineered and tweaked to deliver maximum fuel efficiency in a car with xW-30 application. If your primary goal is to use an oil that delivers the most fuel economy possible, M1 0W-30 is your top choice. GC is best for maximum protection and long OCI's, as well as meeting the various requirements of certain automakers. It's not a GF-4 oil so its not going to deliver the best fuel economy possible for its grade. What you will get is probably the finest protective oil you can buy at retail short of using some expensive boutique oil. So, what's important to you? That answer will determine which oil is best for your application. Personally, I don't care about using an oil to squeeze out the most fuel economy possible. I want protection but I don't want to pay thru the nose for it. GC works for me and its hardly an inferior product to anything on the market. Use either brand with confidence.
 
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First, see if your car needs a certain oil specification. If one oil meets it and the other does not, your decision is made. ;\) For example, if you have a BMW that requires LL-01, use GC. If you have a Subaru that requires API SM or ILSAC GF-4, use the Mobil 1. If either oil would work, then make your decision based on how you drive your car. For hard driving, lots of stop-and-go, or lots of short trips, pick GC. Otherwise, pick Mobil 1. IMO, of course.
 
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You might give M1 10W-30 high mileage a look as well. I think it's a bit of a sleeper oil. M1HM is comparable to GC in that it's a 'thick' 30W, with with similar HTHS specs. It lacks many of the European certs, but I suspect that's simply because Mobil hasn't tried to qualify the oil. It does meet A3/B4, a commonly euro spec. Pour point is -54C, notably lower than most other M1 varieties and possibly implying use of more or 'better' base stocks. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1119052 shows plenty of additives. As mentioned, Wally World (if you can stand the place) has 5qt of M1 for $26. Throw in the $10 Mobil rebate, and you're saving a ton of $ vs. the GC.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Geonerd
It lacks many of the European certs
Do you mean European OEM certifications? It is ACEA A3/B4 as you pointed out, and ACEA is European.
 Originally Posted By: Geonerd
Pour point is -54C, notably lower than most other M1 varieties and possibly implying use of more or 'better' base stocks.
Or just pour point depressants. ;\)
 
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 Originally Posted By: Geonerd
You might give M1 10W-30 high mileage a look as well. I think it's a bit of a sleeper oil. M1HM is comparable to GC in that it's a 'thick' 30W, with with similar HTHS specs. It lacks many of the European certs, but I suspect that's simply because Mobil hasn't tried to qualify the oil. It does meet A3/B4, a commonly euro spec. Pour point is -54C, notably lower than most other M1 varieties and possibly implying use of more or 'better' base stocks. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1119052 shows plenty of additives. As mentioned, Wally World (if you can stand the place) has 5qt of M1 for $26. Throw in the $10 Mobil rebate, and you're saving a ton of $ vs. the GC.
I'm not a Mobil 1 person, at all, but I bought a 5 quart jug of this and used a quart of it to top off my car. My crankcase is filled with PP 5W-20, and adding a single quart of this to my sump has reduced my consumption by about 95%. I checked my oil (cold) today and the stuff just dripped off my dipstick like water.
 
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Don't the German car manufactures have stricter oil standards? Does this mean that a Japanese vehicle can use GC without any ill effects? If the Japanese vehicle (Nissan) is out of warranty and I wan't the best protection possible in my Japanese made vehicle, will I be doing harm to my engine if I use GC 0W-30?
 Originally Posted By: d00df00d
First, see if your car needs a certain oil specification. If one oil meets it and the other does not, your decision is made. ;\) For example, if you have a BMW that requires LL-01, use GC. If you have a Subaru that requires API SM or ILSAC GF-4, use the Mobil 1. If either oil would work, then make your decision based on how you drive your car. For hard driving, lots of stop-and-go, or lots of short trips, pick GC. Otherwise, pick Mobil 1. IMO, of course.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Spartuss
Don't the German car manufactures have stricter oil standards? Does this mean that a Japanese vehicle can use GC without any ill effects? If the Japanese vehicle (Nissan) is out of warranty and I wan't the best protection possible in my Japanese made vehicle, will I be doing harm to my engine if I use GC 0W-30?
I don't think it is always a matter of stricter standards, just different standards. German cars are designed for extended drain intervals and often are more demanding on oils. Given that most Japanese vehicles only require a conventional oil and if one has upgraded to a full synthetic of the proper viscosity, it is hard to imagine that more protection is needed beyond that (unless maybe one has a turbo-charged engine that operates at higher temperatures). GC is likely to get lower gas mileage and put slightly more strain on the engine than Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE (or equivalent). I would not say that GC would damage an engine, but unless you are using extended drain intervals, then I don't see what additional protection that it could be providing.
 
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I know a lot of Nissan VQ engines prefer a thicker oil such as a Xw-40 despite the fact that a Xw-30 is recommended. Seems the GC is on the thicker end of the 30wt. and would be well suited for a Nissan VQ engine, while still sticking to a 30wt. viscosity.
 
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 Originally Posted By: chevrofreak
 Originally Posted By: Geonerd
You might give M1 10W-30 high mileage a look as well. I think it's a bit of a sleeper oil. M1HM is comparable to GC in that it's a 'thick' 30W, with with similar HTHS specs. It lacks many of the European certs, but I suspect that's simply because Mobil hasn't tried to qualify the oil. It does meet A3/B4, a commonly euro spec. Pour point is -54C, notably lower than most other M1 varieties and possibly implying use of more or 'better' base stocks. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1119052 shows plenty of additives. As mentioned, Wally World (if you can stand the place) has 5qt of M1 for $26. Throw in the $10 Mobil rebate, and you're saving a ton of $ vs. the GC.
I'm not a Mobil 1 person, at all, but I bought a 5 quart jug of this and used a quart of it to top off my car. My crankcase is filled with PP 5W-20, and adding a single quart of this to my sump has reduced my consumption by about 95%. I checked my oil (cold) today and the stuff just dripped off my dipstick like water.
M1 is some seriously slick stuff. Watch the drops slide down a funnel-seriously cool.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Spartuss
Don't the German car manufactures have stricter oil standards? Does this mean that a Japanese vehicle can use GC without any ill effects?
+1 to Mark888's comments. Oils aren't always "better" or "worse". It's all about what the engine likes, and what the service demands.
 Originally Posted By: Spartuss
If the Japanese vehicle (Nissan) is out of warranty and I wan't the best protection possible in my Japanese made vehicle, will I be doing harm to my engine if I use GC 0W-30?
G35, right? You're not going to break your engine by running GC. It's just that there might be something better.
 
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I am referring to our G35 and Maxima. Right now I'm using PP 5w-30 in these but it's interesting to hear thoughts on GC.
 Originally Posted By: d00df00d
 Originally Posted By: Spartuss
Don't the German car manufactures have stricter oil standards? Does this mean that a Japanese vehicle can use GC without any ill effects?
+1 to Mark888's comments. Oils aren't always "better" or "worse". It's all about what the engine likes, and what the service demands.
 Originally Posted By: Spartuss
If the Japanese vehicle (Nissan) is out of warranty and I wan't the best protection possible in my Japanese made vehicle, will I be doing harm to my engine if I use GC 0W-30?
G35, right? You're not going to break your engine by running GC. It's just that there might be something better.
 
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 Originally Posted By: Spartuss
Don't the German car manufactures have stricter oil standards? Does this mean that a Japanese vehicle can use GC without any ill effects? If the Japanese vehicle (Nissan) is out of warranty and I wan't the best protection possible in my Japanese made vehicle, will I be doing harm to my engine if I use GC 0W-30?
Let's not get too carried away with our paranoia. You could use ANY motor oil that meets your car's specs and not have any ill effects (don't know what those would be). As long as you change the oil within the mfr's specs, you will not harm your engine (don't know what harm could come to it). We're talking about the most sophisticated and technologically advanced motor oils ever made. Terms like "harm" and "ill effects" are not applicable if you maintain your car properly. Ultimately, we are splitting the thinnest of hairs when discussing these products. Either of these oils will be far more than adequate for most applications, including most of ours. Don't worry about it so much, its just motor oil.
 
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I think the G35 calls for an energy conserving oil. It's hard to tell whether that's just for fuel economy or whether there is a bigger issue like catalytic converter compatibility. I found a few excerpts of the owner's manual with a quick Google search:
 Quote:
If you cannot find engine oil with the API certification mark, use an API grade SG/SH, Energy Conserving I & II or API grade SJ or SL, Energy conserving oil. An oil with a single designation SG or SH, or in combination with other categories (for example, SG/CC or SG/CD) may also be used if one with the API certification mark cannot be found. An ILSAC grade GF-I, GF-II, GF-III oil can also be used.
In other words, they really prefer if you use an "energy conserving" oil, but it's not absolutely essential Now, here's what Castrol says about GC:
 Quote:
Exceeds all car and light truck manufacturer’s warranty requirements for the protection of gasoline, diesel and turbocharged engines where API SL, SJ, SH, CF or CD is recommended. Exceeds European ACEA: A3, B3, B4; VW 502 00, 505 00, 503 01; MB 229.1, 229.3, 229.5; BMW LL-01; GMLLA-025, GM-LL-B-025 and the engine protection requirements of ILSAC GF-3 for API Certified Gasoline Engine Oils.
From my reading of this, GC will protect your engine well enough. I strongly doubt it'll be harmful. The worst you can say about GC is that you'll lose some fuel economy, and you can probably find something that'll provide enough protection while also delivering better MPG. I'm not sure about the Maxima, but I definitely would bank on it being similar.
 
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 Originally Posted By: wannafbody
[/quote] M1 is some seriously slick stuff. Watch the drops slide down a funnel-seriously cool.
And I thought that I was the only one who ever watched the liquid ball bearings go down the funnel . FYI- Amsoil does the same thing. As far as the OP's post is concerned just grab and go....either one will keep your vehicle's engine clean and protected from extreme heat.
 
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Could someone please explain the connection between beading in a funnel and lubricity? I don't get it, but I'm sure there's a really interesting tribological reason...
 
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