Over 150,000 mi ownership life of a car, is there any real noticeable benefit (0ther than $$) by using synthetic over a good blend using 5000 mi oci's?
I'm inclined to think not. Thoughts?
I'm inclined to think not. Thoughts?
Syn vs blend question
- Thread starter oilchangeguy
- Start date
If it has the proper approval and you aren’t beating the absolute tar out of it not really
Dino 3000
Blend 5000
I would go Full Syn & 7500 and overall save $ (time, oil, filter, washer, etc.) given that full syn is only few $ more than blend.
p.s.
according to internet, your mpg may drop a little with syn. Not sure how true that is but it's on the internet so maybe it's true.
Blend 5000
I would go Full Syn & 7500 and overall save $ (time, oil, filter, washer, etc.) given that full syn is only few $ more than blend.
p.s.
according to internet, your mpg may drop a little with syn. Not sure how true that is but it's on the internet so maybe it's true.
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Attempting to assign quantitative differences between basestock compositions without considering the fully formulated motor oil is useless. It’s been that way forever. HPL has been writing about this a lot. Perhaps check out some of their posts.
I personally believe that there is little difference that the engine will notice under normal type of driving and maintenance. However, I do also believe that special engines need a special oil such as hard driving/racing. Even abusing your own vehicle you may want a better oil(s).
Also, I believe that full synthetic oil my offer longer OCIs even if only by a few K extra miles.
With the price difference between e.g., conventional & synthetic oils so much clo$er today than ever before, I simply choose the synthetic.
Also, oils that are labeled synblend and charging extra for them, IMO, is just more marketing jargon than real benefit.
Are there some really good blends? Sure!
Which ones? IDK!
Also, I believe that full synthetic oil my offer longer OCIs even if only by a few K extra miles.
With the price difference between e.g., conventional & synthetic oils so much clo$er today than ever before, I simply choose the synthetic.
Also, oils that are labeled synblend and charging extra for them, IMO, is just more marketing jargon than real benefit.
Are there some really good blends? Sure!
Which ones? IDK!
My experience has been I've used every type of oil in my vehicles that's out there, and every vehicle that has been sold, or been traded off never had a engine issue. Cheaper priced full synthetic oil worked fine. I could never pay the high price some boutique oils ask for their oils. If your vehicle has a factory suggested 5k oci, going longer or twice what the factory recommends, just means you have dirty oil in your motor for a longer oci. Kinda defeats the purpose of paying the premium price. I've been using house brand auto parts store synthetic oil in my old explorer for the last 8 years. It has over 250k miles on it and runs the same as it did when it was newer, and I wasted, I mean paid more for name brand oil . If you really hold onto your vehicle until the wheels turn square, at some point you'll come to realize, as long as you change the oil your vehicle will last a long time. But as soon as next years model comes out, you just gotta have one, so out comes the for sale sign. All the love you felt for your car, care you took by paying $22 a qt for that magical mystical super duper synthetic oil is forgotten about, So what did paying top dollar get you in the long run ?.,,,
That's pretty much what i think too. Thanks!
Who pays $22 a quart I just bought three Jugs of Mobil 1 for $14.80 a Jug with free shipping.
Yes, maybe and no.
That is simply way too broad of a question to be able to give an answer.
I'm also inclined to think not.
Having said that...with the small difference in price between 'full synthetics' and blends (at WM in the 5qt. jugs)...I would feel better if I inadvertently went longer on the OCI if I had full synthetic in the sump.
Newer engines have extremely high power density** I would run the highest quality oil that you think is appropriate. I would start with any of the Major's FS products. You may also want to step up a grade if the vehicle spec's 0W20 and the unit will be used hard - even occasionally.
** example: 1982 Ford Mustang H.O 5.0 V8 157 horsepower @ 4200 RPM
2020 Ford Ecosport 2.0L I4 166 horsepower @ 6500 RPM
** example: 1982 Ford Mustang H.O 5.0 V8 157 horsepower @ 4200 RPM
2020 Ford Ecosport 2.0L I4 166 horsepower @ 6500 RPM
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I recently had a fuel pump replaced in the old Blazer.
While it was in the shop I told them to do an oil change.
I have no idea what filter or oil they used (will I get banned from this site?)
I will have it changed in 5K miles and not worry about it.
While it was in the shop I told them to do an oil change.
I have no idea what filter or oil they used (will I get banned from this site?)
I will have it changed in 5K miles and not worry about it.
Modern (SN, SP) "conventional" oils are really blends.
Many oils labeled "full synthetic" are also blends.
What to do?
Many oils labeled "full synthetic" are also blends.
What to do?
Go price Amsoil. You might pay more than $22 a qt with shipping. There are other pricey oils out there also. None I'll ever buy.,,,
Hey that's MY line ... !Modern (SN, SP) "conventional" oils are really blends.
Many oils labeled "full synthetic" are also blends.
What to do?
My father ran an oil refinery when Mobil 1 was invented / being tested. So for years I was subjected to a blow-by-blow of the test-lab engine teardown reports of essentially zero wear over 100's of thousands of hours under a wide array of harsh and abusive conditions.
In 2001 I bought a new Triumph Bonneville. It came with Mobil 1 in the engine. It was then often run hard, often two-up, and not infrequently towing a trailer. At maybe 50K miles it fell over and the shifter broke off; damaging the shifter cross-shaft. With the engine side covers off to replace the shaft I thought to also replace the much abused clutch disks and plates - which of course run in engine oil. I have had a thousand engines of all kinds apart in my lifetime - so I am well familiar with what they look like inside. The inside of the Triumph engine was literally spotless - like a fresh engine just assembled. And all of the clutch parts were near to the high end of their factory spec-ed tolerances. That was some years ago and they are still in there.
Hey; maybe organic motor oil is just as good Mobil 1 synthetic - I don't know - and I will Never Know as I am never going back to using it.
With your average everyday gas car, SUV, or pickup truck, I don't think it matters much, as long as you're using approved oils and viscosities, and or maybe upping the viscosity a grade. Whether FS or a blend, recent API rated SN, SN+, and SP oils are all very good.
For example, I'm running API rated SN Chevron Supreme 5W-30 in my older Silverado -- a blend oil -- and trust it completely with its known excellent add pack. In fact, I found a case of this in my out building, and am using this likely 6 or 7-year old oil right now. On my garage shelf, other oils for my Alaskan vehicles include 7 each jugs of Kirkland Signature and Valvoline Advanced FS 5W-30 oils, and 2 each NAPA syn-blend 5W-30 jugs i recentlly purchased for $12.50 each. BTW, the Kirkland does well in our cold winter weather.
I even have a quart of really, really old Delo 15W-40 for my summer mower; somehow this 20-year old oil survived a few moves and was also recently found. That reminds me, I need to mow the backyard tomorrow.
I think the matra of most of us here is to change your engine oil and other fluids regularly. Consistent maintenance is the key.
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