Switching to syn. at 272816 miles.

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Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: tig1
Certainly make extreme cold starts much easier.


Started the same this morning at -11F as it ever did on 10w40 dino.


Then what's the purpose of your thread?


You think I'd make a thread saying I switched to a synth 5w30 and it starts better than a dino 10w40 at cold temps? What revelation does that bring to the table? You almost seem upset that I didn't reply with "Yeah it starts way faster now and I have a ton more power and the engine is way quieter!"

My purpose for the thread as stated is that I'll update if it starts leaking or consuming any oil at an appreciable and also compare UOAs from the dino and synthetic when I get them in.


You where asking for advise with your thread so I gave some. Easier starting in extreme cold is normally a benefit with synthetic oil.
 
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Originally Posted By: tig1

You where asking for advise with your thread so I gave some. Easier starting in extreme cold is normally a benefit with synthetic oil.


Thanks but I didn't ask for advice anywhere in this thread except where PPHM is easiest to find in stores.

And yes, you're right easier starting in extreme temperatures but -11F isn't extreme enough for there to be a difference between this and the 10w40 I guess because it fired up immediately and the same as before.
 
With where your at in Alaska I wonder if it's not easy to find places that sell a wide variety of oils. Nothing wrong with that. I like more rural areas than suburbia or cities.
 
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I like your comment about trying experiments. Won't hurt a thing and whether it leaks more or not, it'll be well lubricated. Subscribed to keep watch...to my knowledge this IS the highest mileage vehicle chronicled on BITOG to be switched over to synthetic.
 
I suppose you're talking about the old F-series engine. My opinion is these would be a lot like the old diesel engines of that era, big engines that don't make a ton of power, maybe use a 'fair' quantity of fuel, but last forever with whatever slap-dash maintenance you give them.

Its an interesting experiment, and hey, if the oil was cheaper than the usual fill of dino, what's to loose?

The main issue I've seen on these is deteriorated paintwork and rust... It seems the old 80's Cruisers have been relegated to regional Australia, and are the chosen vehicle for surfers, tradies and other people. Keep up the wax (and under-body hose-downs) up, and it'll last forever.

Family have an 80-series Cruiser with the 1HZ diesel, with about 470,000km (292,000 miles) as-of writing. Rebuild was in 2012 at about 433,000km (269,000 miles), transmission rebuild a few years and about 35,000km earlier. OE clutch was replaced at the same time, near 400,000km (248,000 miles).
It was serviced based on the Toyota schedule of the time, 3 months/5000km (3000miles). Just dino 15w-40 and Ryco filters.
 
Originally Posted By: B320i
I suppose you're talking about the old F-series engine. My opinion is these would be a lot like the old diesel engines of that era, big engines that don't make a ton of power, maybe use a 'fair' quantity of fuel, but last forever with whatever slap-dash maintenance you give them.

Its an interesting experiment, and hey, if the oil was cheaper than the usual fill of dino, what's to loose?

The main issue I've seen on these is deteriorated paintwork and rust... It seems the old 80's Cruisers have been relegated to regional Australia, and are the chosen vehicle for surfers, tradies and other people. Keep up the wax (and under-body hose-downs) up, and it'll last forever.

Family have an 80-series Cruiser with the 1HZ diesel, with about 470,000km (292,000 miles) as-of writing. Rebuild was in 2012 at about 433,000km (269,000 miles), transmission rebuild a few years and about 35,000km earlier. OE clutch was replaced at the same time, near 400,000km (248,000 miles).
It was serviced based on the Toyota schedule of the time, 3 months/5000km (3000miles). Just dino 15w-40 and Ryco filters.


Yes this is a carbureted 2f and I try to keep the body clean and the rust off. Only OEM filters used though the new OEM filters are smaller than the older original version. Again, not worried about it.


Summer time in Hope, AK:
FullSizeRender_zpswyu7hu4s.jpg
 
I switched my truck over to synthetic at 238k and I havent leaked a drop or consumed. I take it back, the side pushrod cover was leaking and I replaced it but it had worn out a long time ago so it doesnt count.
 
Originally Posted By: Ducked
Originally Posted By: Dyusik
Keep an eye on the filter


How?


No answer was the stern reply.

I suppose one or more oil pressure gauges might give clues, but I don't have any.

Maybe surface temperature - if its permanently in bypass it'll be cooler?

Then I googled and found this.

https://books.google.co.ug/books?id=gE4EAAAAMBAJ&source=gbs_all_issues_r&cad=1

(LIFE 16 Mar 1942 page 116)

"AC Filter renewal elements keep oil clean and clear....Install one whenever your oil becomes so dark that the marks on the oil level gauge stick cannot be seen easily."

(No mention of changing the oil, but I suppose AC didn't sell oil)

Maybe I've been over-thinking (and over-changing) it.
 
I switched my 4Runner with a 3.4L engine over to synthetic @ about 360,000 miles. I've bounced around between synthetic blends and full synthetics ever since. She leaks the same as she always did with conventional which maybe 1/2 - 3/4 quart every 5k or so. It could be much less than that — but I'm just too lazy to replace the gaskets.

She'll never see pure convential oil again though. She'll ride off into the sunset one day on Mobile 1 full synthetic. Hopefully that won't be any time soon either, my truck runs [censored] fine with 417,000 miles on the original engine.
 
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Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Originally Posted By: FordCapriDriver
I personally would not take the risk of trying out a synthetic at such high miles, but please report back to tell us if you have any leaks, higher oil consumption etc.
"Risk" ?

Risk of causing oil leaks and such.


What some consider a risk with the property of others is sometimes bordering on negligence when it come to advice.

Some later in life like to try bungee jumping or skydiving and not see it as a risk.
Others will NOT try bungee jumping or skydiving at as it is considered an unnecessary risk to take for a short duration of Adrenalin rush. Just an example to compare extremes based on persons perspective in life.

To me with this high mileage and success to date changing the oil regime at this point time is NOT logical and NOT worth the risk even if it minimal.

Others will applaud the move and I shake my head why bother ?

I am not been negative just truthful as to how I see the matter.
 
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Originally Posted By: virginoil


To me with this high mileage and success to date changing the oil regime at this point time is NOT logical and NOT worth the risk even if it minimal.

Others will applaud the move and I shake my head why bother ?

I am not been negative just truthful as to how I see the matter.






The "risk" of me hitting a moose is much higher then me ruining an engine with a case of fully synthetic oil. If it all leaks out and destroys itself then after 30 years and 272k miles, it owed me nothing and was time for a rebuild anyway.

Trying synthetic at this stage in the trucks life doesn't bring me an adrenaline rush like bungee jumping unfortunately. It's much more boring than that but I'm mildly interested in the outcome and some others might be as well.
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
I would addressing leaks if they occur and report if they are after the change. By conventional wisdom, every one of my seals should start leaking almost immediately according to some on here.

You fill the crankcase, I'll build a dam of kitty litter around the vehicle.
wink.gif


Sure, there might be leaks, there might not be. Some vehicles are more prone to leaks than others. Incidentally, on my old Audi, I switched to synthetic, and there were enough miles on it, too. It was already leaking from the valve cover gasket, even with the 15w-40 conventional. I bought an OEM gasket for under $10 and took a few minutes and changed the thing.

As for consumption, it "liked" some oils better than others, be they synthetic or conventional. But, no additional seepage occurred in the vehicle after I switched to synthetic and got rid of the rock hard valve cover gasket. I put pictures some years ago here in the picture thread, someplace. I didn't have puddles on the floor, or even drips. And, looking under the valve cover, I know it got a lot of years of conventional at some very long intervals; the vehicle's severe service interval was 12,500 km on ordinary conventional.

And I got to visit Hope back in the early 1980s with my parents.
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Garak


And I got to visit Hope back in the early 1980s with my parents.
wink.gif



Hope is great place to hunt and fish in the summer. Pretty dead in the winter but still beautiful. Come back this way one day and I'll buy you a beer as we watch my truck weep synthetic tears on the trail.
 
At this point (mileage) why change now.

I remember my Father ran a 84' Ford Tempo 350,000+ miles on dino oil with either Motorcraft or Fram filters, whatever was on sale if I remember correctly. That thing wouldn't die; two clutches, two water pumps, many sets of tires and it just kept going.
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Synthetic what? Do you know what the Pearl GTL finshed base is? It's not di-ester and its not PAO so how can you apply old tales to new tech?

Plus most ALL pcmo are majority "synthetic" if you use the oil industry advertising terminology of hydrocracked + hydroisomerized.


Riveting story.

Blown up any engines in the last week?
Nope but I'm working on it JUST FOR YOU. See that FRAM on the Rogue.
Care to refute any of the truths I tell? Or just flapping your numb jawbones, sweetpea?
 
Originally Posted By: jayg
Originally Posted By: Bighorn2500
At this point (mileage) why change now.





Did you read any my posts?


Yeah it's free but, just seems late in the game now for the age and mileage of the vehicle to me.
 
My take. You're switching to synthetic BUT it's a high mileage synthetic,meaning it's made to combat leaks,etc. Imo you should be good to go.
 
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