Switching from Mobil 1 to Amsoil?
- Thread starter bsannich
- Start date
Wish I had a car that rebuilt itself minus the possessed part.Christine would differ with you! View attachment 150131
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2014
- Messages
- 2,847
I see a lot of folks sticking with one brand, and saying it’s best to do so, the question I’d have is...what’s wrong with switching every oil change? In the last 70,000 miles on my current vehicle I’ve used Mobil1 EP (3 times), Pennzoil Platinum a couple times, Valvoline Modern Engine a couple times, Shell RGT, Super Tech, Amalie Synthetic, and I used a frankenbrew of Pennzoil/Quaker State/Shell RGT. Intervals ranging from 5,000-10,000 (when using the Mobil1 EP).
If there is ANY advantage to sticking with just one brand, I might actually do it. And it’d probably be Mobil1 I guess. And probably Mobil1 EP (I suppose). It’s easy for me to get, they run their rebates once a year or so, seems to be “good” oil.
If there is ANY advantage to sticking with just one brand, I might actually do it. And it’d probably be Mobil1 I guess. And probably Mobil1 EP (I suppose). It’s easy for me to get, they run their rebates once a year or so, seems to be “good” oil.
Age old debate. I'm usually more of a purest as I don't like to mix oils, nor do I like to constantly switch back and forth. Does it matter? Meh probably not much. But each time you introduce a new chemistry into the engine, it has to lay down it's qualities and establish new tribofilms on the metal surfaces with it's own unique chemistry. Being most oils are compatible, it's not really an issue. I prefer to try and stay with one brand. I know we all get the urge to try new oils now and then and that is perfectly fine.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Yeah - as I burn through the last of my 3 brand stash - have tried to at least do back2back changes with the same stuff - sorta pick a brand/vehicle combo … For the two 8 quart engines - you have to dedicate 3 jugs
Nothing. Imagine all the engines that go to different service providers every time for an oil change with the lowest bidder providing a different oil each and every time.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
The folks who used to advise against changing brands for so many years all had the similar theory. They claimed mixing and changing had a chance of causing some chemical reaction monster inside your engine as the different add packs etc may not have been compatible. I used to fall for that talk. Not so sure these days. If true , it would have been proven so many times and long ago............... I still dont make a practice of it if I can help it. Good thing its not true for drinking liqour or we 'd have folks blowing up all over the place!
But then again, formulations change quite often even within the same brand so I’m not too sure how much of the same consistent chemistry you’re really getting.
4WD
$50 site donor 2024
Might depend on how you shop
What Amsoil OE ? Signature? If you are going to change it once a year and only drive 3,000 miles it would be a waste and maybe even wrong to run Signature - though it's a great lubricant. If M1 5W30 and O.E. are the same price its really a toss up. If not just 15 bucks a year more spent on a well kept performance car is inconsequenial. - Ken
Hmm...can you please explain that more (why it could be *wrong* to run signature)? I do run signature in my other car that is rarely driven (maybe 1,000 miles a year).
Price isn't really an issue. They're both weekend cars and only get an annual oil change.
They are extremely high detergent long drain oils. You could most like run them for three years without changing.
The oil isn't likely entering its "sweet spot" until you get 3K mile into it. There is hidden chemistry at work here.
Then when starting an engine after an oil change you are "dry starting" the machine with a chance for accelerated wear.
Is that really true? I know the oil pressure typically takes a few seconds to build up, but all the contact surfaces in the engine are lubed.
1200 rpm start and cold run with new smog engines with 4" stroke and severe rod angularity loads the rod bigs a bit more than the old days of Four-Three motors.
Then you are likely using high group base stocks (with your oil choice) that have no affinity to metal due to lack of polar heads.
But as you say, there be some oil in the bearing shell. That's why modern engines last over 100K.
I reiterate, I would not run a boutique motor oil in any vehicle that is only driven 1k miles per year and changed once a year, you get no benefit whatsoever from using it. IMO stretching the change interval to two years is not the answer either, you would be better-off using M1 and changing it every year.
This.
Similar threads
- Locked
