Switching from 0w-20 to 0w-30 experience

[GW.]

I came across this video a couple of days ago. Apparently, he is using 0W-20 from the dealership, at 10K mi OCIs. Obviously severe duty operations with offroading and long idling, which even the manual advises going up in viscosity and cutting down the OCI. Yet, it lasted 250k miles. Maybe someone could shed a light about if the failure was potentially caused by not changing from the "normal" OCI/grade. Details about the issue at around the 22:20 mark.

First step would be a complete disassembly to diagnose the loss of compression. I wish we could see the inside of that engine!!

Back when I worked for the railroad we had some 4runners used by ECI foreman. Those had 400k+ miles of hard use on them.

 

[kschachn]

True, all things being equal - and real world city driving cannot provide this ... so, any huge change (like 10%) is simply because the real world city driving differences caused it. "I am not in a controlled environment ..." - exactly.

A controlled environment test will not change by 10% ... 0.5-2.0% is sort of the accepted range with minor change from branded synthetic 0W-20 to branded synthetic 0W-30 - that's a reasonable range to see differences.

Exactly the issue and somehow it seems difficult to comprehend.

As you note, in a controlled environment where the oil is the only variable the difference in fuel consumption between grades is about 1% to 2% maximum. Grades are grades, so it depends on the specific oils under test.

 

[tiger862]

Exactly the issue and somehow it seems difficult to comprehend.

As you note, in a controlled environment where the oil is the only variable the difference in fuel consumption between grades is about 1% to 2% maximum. Grades are grades, so it depends on the specific oils under test.

Not disagreeing, however in the case of business it matters greatly. The difference in fuel cost might seem small though it adds up. In my case 7.50 a week savings. Only use Exxon gas and Valvoline oil. Anything that can be done within reason is how you survive.

 

[BobUser]

Not disagreeing, however in the case of business it matters greatly. The difference in fuel cost might seem small though it adds up. In my case 7.50 a week savings. Only use Exxon gas and Valvoline oil. Anything that can be done within reason is how you survive.

C'mon, shilling for companies? Really?

 

[DCDG]

Not disagreeing, however in the case of business it matters greatly. The difference in fuel cost might seem small though it adds up. In my case 7.50 a week savings. Only use Exxon gas and Valvoline oil. Anything that can be done within reason is how you survive.

$30 could be a water or home gas bill.

 

[bimiko939]

Calling someone a shill just for sticking to Exxon and Valvoline is crazy. $7.50 a week might not sound like much to some, but over a year that’s nearly $400 in your pocket. Small savings definitely add up when you drive a lot

 

[GMBoy]

I have been running Mobil 1 5w/30 in the '14 Grand Cherokee Overland since new (now has 201k) and the '20 Gladiator (now at 88k). I feel 30wt is the best oil to feed the 3.6L. I have run AFE 0w/30 once or twice when I had it on hand. Bottom line, be it 0W or 5W - make it a 30wt.

 

[BobUser]

Calling someone a shill just for sticking to Exxon and Valvoline is crazy. $7.50 a week might not sound like much to some, but over a year that’s nearly $400 in your pocket. Small savings definitely add up when you drive a lot

Without evidence that those two companies' products make a difference? Or, maybe because Dad only used Exxon gas and Valvoline oil?

 

[DCDG]

I think members here best stop being so opinionated on others opinions and quit chewing one another out. Bad for the BITOG moral and makes quick for the down.

 

[Kira]

$7.50 a week might not sound like much to some, but over a year that’s nearly $400 in your pocket.

My uncle would remind everyone, "Those are after tax dollars".

 

[BobUser]

This is generally a science and (near) fact-based site ... feelings on oil don't help much.

 

[kschachn]

Not disagreeing, however in the case of business it matters greatly. The difference in fuel cost might seem small though it adds up. In my case 7.50 a week savings. Only use Exxon gas and Valvoline oil. Anything that can be done within reason is how you survive.

Yes, like I’ve said if fuel economy is your one and sole concern then that’s the reason to use lower-grade oils.

 

[tiger862]

Without evidence that those two companies' products make a difference? Or, maybe because Dad only used Exxon gas and Valvoline oil?

Don’t know if those helped, however that’s what I run. This was stated as everything I do is routine.
Exxon gives me 20 cents off then upside gives 10 after so many tanks of fuel. I’m a believer in Valvoline is why I use it in everything.
No Dad ran only Shell and Pennzoil

 

[OVERKILL]

This is your opinion.

If we are talking about the multiple studies @kschachn mentions, it's not really opinion, but generally accepted fact. However, just because it's measurable doesn't make it meaningful. This is precisely what Honda was talking about with respect to "acceptable wear" when they were doing their thinner oil testing.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I came across this video a couple of days ago. Apparently, he is using 0W-20 from the dealership, at 10K mi OCIs. Obviously severe duty operations with offroading and long idling, which even the manual advises going up in viscosity and cutting down the OCI. Yet, it lasted 250k miles. Maybe someone could shed a light about if the failure was potentially caused by not changing from the "normal" OCI/grade. Details about the issue at around the 22:20 mark.

Based on all the dirt after the air filter in the intake manifold, that's what messed up that engine the most. Plus, I wonder if he ever had the valves adjusted, which could have caused the intake valve to not close all the way and damage it over time.

 

[ZeeOSix]

I think members here best stop being so opinionated on others opinions and quit chewing one another out. Bad for the BITOG moral and makes quick for the down.

Or lock out the offenders from being able to post in the threads they abuse.

 

[ZeeOSix]

The vehicles I do oil and filter changes on that recommend xW-20 get xW-30. If I had a vehicle that recommended a xW-8 or xW-16, they would get a xW-20. More MOFT headroom can't hurt unless you're a hypermiler, and even then it's not much. I've never seen any change in oil temps or fuel mileage from going up a grade. Too many other variables involved.

 

[4wd]

I have been running Mobil 1 5w/30 in the '14 Grand Cherokee Overland since new (now has 201k) and the '20 Gladiator (now at 88k). I feel 30wt is the best oil to feed the 3.6L. I have run AFE 0w/30 once or twice when I had it on hand. Bottom line, be it 0W or 5W - make it a 30wt.

Yep, the only reason I won’t run 5W-30 in my 3.6L - is that I have a jug of M1 FS 0W-40 that I need to use up next

 

[DCDG]

Or lock out the offenders from being able to post in the threads they abuse.

Staff members work overtime keeping this forum civil. Monitoring every keystroke closer than the crumbs in our keyboards to keep BITOG a forum and not another social media space, problem is there’s several on here with social media finger tips. Some look like they’re $ite donors* guess that gives them the permit to fire off on other members with insults and not being banned or posting privileges revoked. What’s that old saying if you don’t have anything nice to say, don’t say anything at all.