Sway bar vs Stiffer Springs

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Agreed I worded it poorly. I was thinking of driving moderately on a rough road where suspension isn't flexing much and making the roll that the OP doesn't like.

You have autocross experience, guess what happens when you put a rear bar on an oval track stock car that was set up without one?

Drift car.
Haha I bet! Oversteer for days.
 

NICAT

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If springs are softer, and sway bar is even stiffer, in this case, even if there is side to side rocking, would this be 'softer' rocking so that it would not felt that bad ? How infinitely stiff sway bar with extremely soft springs would feel link in rough road and cornerings ?
PS: i found a good discussion here : https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=308948&page=2
 
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If springs are softer, and sway bar is even stiffer, in this case, even if there is side to side rocking, would this be 'softer' rocking so that it would not felt that bad ? How infinitely stiff sway bar with extremely soft springs would feel link in rough road and cornerings ?
PS: i found a good discussion here : https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?t=308948&page=2


you wouldn't have any suspension most of the time. lightest loaded wheels lifting everywhere and heaviest dropping in the holes.
 
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Myth?
Isn't it basic physics sir ?
While 'sway bar limiting wheel travel' statement is too generic to be true.
More accurately, cant we say, 'Sway bar increase the amount of force required for wheel travel at one side of the car, if the wheel at the other side is not traveling or just is moving to the opposite direction?


I like Fork lifts.
 
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You want go fast on the street with a sport car?
"Springs as soft as possible, Sway bars as hard as possible" rule of thump.


Think this book would be a bestseller in the US, too.... :unsure:
 
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You want go fast on the street with a sport car?
"Springs as soft as possible, Sway bars as hard as possible" rule of thump.


Think this book would be a bestseller in the US, too.... :unsure:

I kinda agree, but the end goal needs to be to get the car balanced while turning and under power. That might mean a softer (than the hardest) sway bar at one end.
 

Pew

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Your problem is improperly valved dampers (shocks). I know that may sound strange given that bilstein spec'd them out for your car, but they simply might not suit your preferred feel. The only real solution to your problem without compromising cornering is different dampers. In fact, stiffer springs and matched dampers might actually eliminate the feeling you're getting when you go over bumps because body movement will be better controlled in general.

I would say this too. Are you 100% sure the bilstein shocks are valved for your OEM springs? I have only seen in very rare cases where disconnecting the sway bar helps, mainly in old Honda CRX's with slicks on the track.
 
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I kinda agree, but the end goal needs to be to get the car balanced while turning and under power. That might mean a softer (than the hardest) sway bar at one end.
Yes, you are right. But that is the finetuing. You allways have a soft (thin) and stiff (thick) sway bar on cars that have two swaybars. Surprisingly, the rear sway bar affects the front of the car and vice versa.
 
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Did you try it with the front sway bar alone? That would be next. I suspect the front is a 2-3 times stiffer than the rear and responsible for most of the sway in bumps but it might be reasonable with it connected. Is your truck a diesel? Maybe there's a softer sway bar from the lighter gas version?
Slightly stiffer front springs without a sway bar may work to limit a bit of body roll but it would be pretty much proportional to how much worse the sway in bumps gets. If you have the gas version, maybe try the diesel front springs alone.

A real junkyard hack maybe to cut a slot length wise done the middle of the stock sway bar, between the bushings on the chassis, allowing it to twist more? Probably it will just crack at the end of the slot...
 

NICAT

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Did you try it with the front sway bar alone? That would be next. I suspect the front is a 2-3 times stiffer than the rear and responsible for most of the sway in bumps but it might be reasonable with it connected. Is your truck a diesel? Maybe there's a softer sway bar from the lighter gas version?
Slightly stiffer front springs without a sway bar may work to limit a bit of body roll but it would be pretty much proportional to how much worse the sway in bumps gets. If you have the gas version, maybe try the diesel front springs alone.

A real junkyard hack maybe to cut a slot length wise done the middle of the stock sway bar, between the bushings on the chassis, allowing it to twist more? Probably it will just crack at the end of the slot...

There is thinner sway bar in eariler models , but it is i think just 31mm vs 34mm diameter, would it make a lot difference ? Is it just 10% difference i the stiffness or any other equation?
PS: Some Calculation here : https://www.driveaccord.net/threads/some-math-for-sway-bars-thickness-vs-stiffness.550468/
Regards.
 
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