Supertech FULL SYN or NameBrand dino?

[ARCOgraphite]

Originally Posted By: el_zorro
This is the first post, I have seen that claims that SM was that bad. Wow, 5 cars not lasting 50K miles since SM has been introduced. Thats a lot of hard driving. Good thing I have my stockpile of GC that isnt SM. We havent seen many UOAs that showed add packs gone in SM oils in 2K either.

You are misreading the UOA - the metal element(s) of the EP compound will be present but depleted. UOA are pretty useless for this casual PC use on this forum, more of a curiosity/fun factor.

 

[Ankhmaat]

I just have got an excellent short article from SynLube (and no I am not promoting their products, but I do use them so I am on their NEWSLETTER e-mailing list).

Simply this PAO and Esters condust heat differently and have different heat capacity !

I did not know that, so insteas of super expensive test by IR you can actually in your own kitchen find out HOW MUCH synthetic is in your oil (what ever brand you are adicted to).

Here is the link:
http://synlube.ning.com/notes/index/show?noteKey=MAGIC_%231_%E2%80%93_Lower_Operating_Temperature

ANd here is my idea.

Get plain PAO 6 from company like ExxonMobil
Get plain API SA oil form place like Wal-Mart

Put an electric heater and thermometer into any convenient container (I prefer chemical glass column) and time the heat up from 100F to 300 F.

Then you can do that you you favorite oil, and the FASTER it heats up (less energy it takes to elevate the temperature) the more PETROLEUM is in the blend!

I could se NO difference between petroleum and supposedly "synthetic" Quaker State !

Interesting, but then it is API Group III "synthetic" so this simple test really works !!!

(My idea of course, but I discussed it with the Guy at SynLube).

 

[FastSUV]

Originally Posted By: Ankhmaat
I just have got an excellent short article from SynLube (and no I am not promoting their products, but I do use them so I am on their NEWSLETTER e-mailing list).

Simply this PAO and Esters condust heat differently and have different heat capacity !

I did not know that, so insteas of super expensive test by IR you can actually in your own kitchen find out HOW MUCH synthetic is in your oil (what ever brand you are adicted to).

Here is the link:
http://synlube.ning.com/notes/index/show?noteKey=MAGIC_%231_%E2%80%93_Lower_Operating_Temperature

ANd here is my idea.

Get plain PAO 6 from company like ExxonMobil
Get plain API SA oil form place like Wal-Mart

Put an electric heater and thermometer into any convenient container (I prefer chemical glass column) and time the heat up from 100F to 300 F.

Then you can do that you you favorite oil, and the FASTER it heats up (less energy it takes to elevate the temperature) the more PETROLEUM is in the blend!

I could se NO difference between petroleum and supposedly "synthetic" Quaker State !

Interesting, but then it is API Group III "synthetic" so this simple test really works !!!

(My idea of course, but I discussed it with the Guy at SynLube).


cool thanks for sharing...I am not anal enough to cook my oil but it is great if others do this and report back to all of us!

 

[JustinC25]

Originally Posted By: otis24
Where I live, ST synthetic is $17 for 5qt jug. Pennzoil Platinum is $20 for a 5qt jug. At just 60 cents more per quart, I would opt for the Pennzoil Platinum.
+1

 

[ericthepig]

My first reaction was ST Synth. But it got complicated the more I thought about it. These dinos can now go grp II+. YB etal are just so close to a III as it is - so perhaps I would go with a premier name brand dino to insure the add pack.

 

[ericthepig]

BTW, if you throw boutique blends into this - it's a no brainer - I go with my trusted Schaeffers 7000 (grp II+/grp IV).