Suggested Oil For 2022 Honda Civic Si - 1.5 l turbo

JSIR

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Mobil 1 AFE and Pennzoil Ultra Platinum would be my choices. They both start off at 8.8 KV100, so have the most potential for staying in grade if there's fuel dilution. Castrol Edge EP is at 8.7, so that would be my 3rd choice.

Oil dilution is always a concern for me, I know they made improvements to the engine since I last owned one in 2016 and that car had it really bad. Thanks for the info on this.
 

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You may be right! I don’t know…..but it doesn’t seem unrealistic considering the the new DI engine problems with fuel dilution. Try a 3k run and do a uoa and you’ll know. Maybe it’s the new 0w-16 oil spec GF-6b that is designed for DI engines?
Ummm, yes, it seems completely unrealistic.

An engine that's DI and subjects the oil to fuel dilution is going to reduce the viscosity of what's in the pan, full-stop. If you start with a thinner oil in the pan, the viscosity loss rate of change isn't going to change, so you end up with an even thinner oil, and thus less protection, in the pan over the same interval.

0w-16 has nothing to do with coping with fuel dilution, it's another step in trying to eek that last little bit of fuel economy out through lower viscosity. The reason that 0w-16 and below (0w-12, 0w-8) have their own category isn't because they are better at dealing with anything, but rather they are wholly unsuitable for traditional applications where bearing design, surface coatings...etc aren't made for oils that thin. There are numerous design changes necessary to facilitate the use of these ultra-thin oils.
 

JSIR

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What does changing brands do?

You just get a mixture of viscosities, base oils , and additives, I'd prefer to stick with one brand once I start, just a personal preference more than anything.
 
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We use M1 AFE 0w20 in my gf's 2019. Oil gets changed when the OLM is at 30%. The car sees mainly short trips with infrequent freeway ventures. This comes out to a change about every 6 months. I check the oil often (curiosity after reading threads about dilution here) but have never seen it move up on he dipstick. I'm sending a sample to Blackstone on the next oil change within the next 2 weeks & will post the results for those that understand them better than I. 23k mi on the car
 

OVERKILL

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We use M1 AFE 0w20 in my gf's 2019. Oil gets changed when the OLM is at 30%. The car sees mainly short trips with infrequent freeway ventures. This comes out to a change about every 6 months. I check the oil often (curiosity after reading threads about dilution here) but have never seen it move up on he dipstick. I'm sending a sample to Blackstone on the next oil change within the next 2 weeks & will post the results for those that understand them better than I. 23k mi on the car
If you are interested in fuel content, DO NOT send it to Blackstone, send it to a lab that does GC.
 
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If you are interested in fuel content, DO NOT send it to Blackstone, send it to a lab that does GC.
Will do. Appreciate the tip 😎.

OT, I spent probably 2hrs going through my Google Pics looking for the Ed Curtis cam card. No luck. It's here somewhere though 😂
 

OVERKILL

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Will do. Appreciate the tip 😎.

OT, I spent probably 2hrs going through my Google Pics looking for the Ed Curtis cam card. No luck. It's here somewhere though 😂
I'll have to find my Jay Allen one, it was pretty aggressive, the limit for ped rockers, like .549/554 lift?
 
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Anything from a brand you recognize in the correct grade. Follow the manual and the maintenance minder.

Using 89 octane gas instead of 87 goes a long way to helping the fuel dilution problem, assuming yours even has one. They all don't.
 

JSIR

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Anything from a brand you recognize in the correct grade. Follow the manual and the maintenance minder.

Using 89 octane gas instead of 87 goes a long way to helping the fuel dilution problem, assuming yours even has one. They all don't.

Now that you mention octane, I have been running 89 octane on light highway driving (low to no boost, constant speed) . It is recommended for 91 octane. I have done some scanning of ignition advance and fuel delivery and I see no change in ignition timing between 89 and 91 octane. For some reason I have gotten a bit better fuel economy on 89 octane compared to 91 octane, not a big difference but it definitely didn't get worse.
 
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Now that you mention octane, I have been running 89 octane on light highway driving (low to no boost, constant speed) . It is recommended for 91 octane. I have done some scanning of ignition advance and fuel delivery and I see no change in ignition timing between 89 and 91 octane. For some reason I have gotten a bit better fuel economy on 89 octane compared to 91 octane, not a big difference but it definitely didn't get worse.
Sorry, I see its an Si and not an EX-T. So forget what I said and use the 91 if that's what Honda suggests.
 
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If it was my car, and I could, warranty-wise, I would consider:
Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 (especially for winter),
Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W-30,
Mobil 1 (European Formula) 0W-40,
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40 (probably only for summers)

And probably change roughly every 6mth/8000km (Canada is still severe service?).

Basically, I'd be looking at anything with HTHS min. 3.5.
The L and LX is lower saps, the 0W-40 and 5W-40 are 'full' SAPS. I would prefer more SAPS, but be a bit wary of the higher weight, though would probably try it.
Not sure about the Honda DI, but e.g. Mobil 1 0W-40, Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40 have MB-Approval 229.5, and so can be used in at least one MB DI engine I know of. Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 (which I think is the same as PP Euro 5W-40) is very popular in Europe.

Curious (from others in this thread), what they think of these choices for this engine. Would I be way off my rocker? :)

If 40 weight FS oils are used for MB DI Turbo 1.6s, would that not translate to them being good in Honda DI Turbo 1.5s? Both don't have any exahust after treatment (other than cats), right?
 
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JSIR

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If it was my car, and I could, warranty-wise, I would consider:
Pennzoil Platinum Euro LX 0W-30 (especially for winter),
Pennzoil Platinum Euro L 5W-30,
Mobil 1 (European Formula) 0W-40,
Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40 (probably only for summers)

And probably change roughly every 6mth/8000km (Canada is still severe service?).

Basically, I'd be looking at anything with HTHS min. 3.5.
The L and LX is lower saps, the 0W-40 and 5W-40 are 'full' SAPS. I would prefer more SAPS, but be a bit wary of the higher weight, though would probably try it.
Not sure about the Honda DI, but e.g. Mobil 1 0W-40, Pennzoil Platinum Euro 5W-40 have MB-Approval 229.5, and so can be used in at least one MB DI engine I know of. Shell Helix Ultra 5W-40 (which I think is the same as PP Euro 5W-40) is very popular in Europe.

Curious (from others in this thread), what they think of these choices for this engine. Would I be way off my rocker? :)

If 40 weight FS oils are used for MB DI Turbo 1.6s, would that not translate to them being good in Honda DI Turbo 1.5s? Both don't have any exahust after treatment (other than cats), right?


Thanks for the reply. I don't believe I can run those viscosities on a new car that is under warranty, only 20 weights are listed in my manual.
 

JSIR

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I wasn't aware of the MB spec I will have a look at that, I thought ILSAC 6 and SP were best for DI engine concerns. I haven't seen my oil levels grow on this car so far, I certainly did on my 2016 Civic when I had it.
 

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I wasn't aware of the MB spec I will have a look at that, I thought ILSAC 6 and SP were best for DI engine concerns. I haven't seen my oil levels grow on this car so far, I certainly did on my 2016 Civic when I had it.
LSPI mitigation in North America started with SN Plus, which limited calcium content. There's now a focus also being placed on phosphorous retention in some of the Euro approvals, as ZDDP is an LSPI quencher. The problem of course is that phosphorous has already been limited for catalyst and GPF protection, which wasn't convenient when its value for mitigating LSPI was discovered.

You are right that if you grossly deviate from spec viscosity and you have a warranty issue with Honda, and they test the oil and discover it isn't what it is supposed to be, that they may deny your claim. Under warranty I'd tend to gravitate toward the spec visc, with a good UOA every once in a while (Oil Analyzers, with GC fuel) to see how it is holding up. I'd also stay away from extended drains.

Personally, I'd run M1 EP 0w-20, since it has basically no VII content, so it won't shear. So any viscosity loss will be exclusively due to fuel. You can buy it at Canadian Tire or Partsource, often on sale.
 
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