Suck and fill for brake fluid???

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Hey guys, hope you all had a good Sunday. I am planning on doing a fair amount of regular maintenance to my Accord when it hits 130K. Planning on an oil change (TGMO), and ATF drain and fill, power steering suck and fill via reservoir, radiator drain and fill, engine and cabin air filter replacement, MAF sensor cleaning, and brake fluid suck and fill. My question is, is this an effective way to slowly replace the brake fluid? Will a turkey baster and new brake fluid do the trick over a couple of suck and fills? Also, will having the brake fluid reservoir open while doing this cause any excess moisture to enter the system? How many suck and fills should I do? I know nothing about brakes, but I do know the dealer charges too much for a brake service. Thanks in advance!
 
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Get a helper and bleed them properly. Yes, you should suck all the fluid you can out of the reservoir, but unlike a PS system, the fluid doesn't circulate. Just a bit through convection. Being in FL I bet your brake bleeders aren't even rusted. It'll be easy. Btw, Honda bleeding is "backwards". Start at the LF caliper and work clockwise.
 
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Nope, it's not a replacement for bleeding at the wheels, and won't introduce excessive moisture. People may come on here and tell you it's just as good as bleeding them at the wheels, but it isn't.
 
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Get a helper and bleed properly. LF->RF->RR->LR for Hondas. Use the Honda DOT3 fluid from the dealer - 2 bottles should do it if you're careful and are using a helper. I did a few different Hondas recently with aftermarket DOT4 fluid and the pedal feel did not turn out the way I expected.
 
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I suspect that brake systems' most tired and hygroscopic-contaminated fluid is contained within the calipers (and wheel cylinders, on those applications). Changing the fluid at the reservoir, even repeatedly, will have no appreciable effect on the opposite end of the circuit imho.
 
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I used to do the turkey blaster method a long time ago. I tried the bleed method and it was easy and fairly quick so I never went back to the turkey blaster, although I do use it on the power steering fluid
 

gregk24

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Im not interested in doing it myself. I know you all have confidence in doing it but I dont want to worry about doing something wrong. Maybe Ill do all the other things DIY and save the brake fluid exchange for the dealer.
 

JHZR2

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Turkey baster is ok if all you're trying to do is remove and refill the reservoir for something like a brake pad change, where some will pass through the pipes and you don't want to draw old dirty fluid with particles from the reservoir. It is not a suitable way to bleed, since it doesn't actually allow for a bleed to occur. Moisture will migrate down, as will dirt, naturally, so all you're really doing is removing junk on the surface. If you want to Dom t then od fashioned way without a pressure bleeder, just replace all the reservoir fluid with fresh, then have a helper push the pedal while you open the bleeders. Do it right in terms of pedal and bleeders.
 
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If it's got ABS, I let the Dealer do it. Those systems are finicky, and parts not cheap. He charges me $40, and I can use a 25% off coupon to make it $30... Machine in their shop pulls old fluid out through bleeders..
 
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I was charged $69.99 at the dealer for the brake fluid change. Also skip your cabin filter change, according to you post history you did that in May.
 
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Originally Posted By: JHZR2
It is not a suitable way to bleed, since it doesn't actually allow for a bleed to occur. Moisture will migrate down, as will dirt, naturally, so all you're really doing is removing junk on the surface. If you want to Dom t then od fashioned way without a pressure bleeder, just replace all the reservoir fluid with fresh, then have a helper push the pedal while you open the bleeders. Do it right in terms of pedal and bleeders.
He can gravity bleed the system - it's pretty much beginner proof. But it'll probably take at least 30 minutes per corner...
 
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This keeps coming up, and the answer is always the same. The only good thing about it is it's incredibly cheap and easy, and thwarts one mode of moisture entry through the vented cap. None of us were born spinning wrenches.
 
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Before ABS there was some value in doing a suck & replace but, not now with the pump and associated plumbing. Just do a system flush. JMO.. ED
 
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Originally Posted By: Chris142
Brake fluid does not circulate like PS or trans does. All you would be doing is putting new fluid in the reservoir.
Then why does the new fluid eventually turn dark like that which was removed?
 

gregk24

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Originally Posted By: silverrat
I was charged $69.99 at the dealer for the brake fluid change. Also skip your cabin filter change, according to you post history you did that in May.
I did, I put in a Fram Fresh Breeze. I have not been all that happy with it, as it has restricted air flow. You can tell there is a difference, its pretty apparent.
 
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Originally Posted By: Chris142
Brake fluid does not circulate like PS or trans does. All you would be doing is putting new fluid in the reservoir.
Actually it does but very slowly. I turkey baster my master cyl every engine oil change. I bought a used Ranger truck in the early 2000s and the fluid was very dark. I started TB the fluid, and at first it was clear, but after a couple of weeks it would turn dark again. After several times the fluid finally cleared up. I also TB my PS pump every engine oil change. Works well for me.
 
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Originally Posted By: tc1446
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Brake fluid does not circulate like PS or trans does. All you would be doing is putting new fluid in the reservoir.
Then why does the new fluid eventually turn dark like that which was removed?
I guarantee you that the new fluid will never reach the calipers or wheel cylinders
 

gregk24

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Ok, well how often should the fluid be changed anyway? It was last done about 2.5 years ago.
 
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Originally Posted By: gregk24
....I did, I put in a Fram Fresh Breeze. I have not been all that happy with it, as it has restricted air flow. You can tell there is a difference, its pretty apparent.
Off topic. If you haven't yet imo you should post your anecdote regarding the Fresh Breeze CAF on the CAF board. I have read of similar restriction anecdotes in several internet postings and why I use standard CAF's, currently a Puro BreatheEasy using an AAP code. As for the topic, agree that with brake fluid turkey baster method is of limited use. If not confident in complete bleed diy you should have an experienced tech/professional do it. I believe Honda's recommended bleed interval is every ~30k miles. That said, there is an Ericthecarguy yt vid on the subject that seems to suggest that is all some dealers/shops do, and it may be ok. Not agreeing or promoting just mentioning it as information.
 
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