Subaru on M1 - Do I need to change?

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The problem is that the bypass psi is specific to the media in the filter. Without knowing all of the design specs you can't make any conclusions. So the so called internet engineers focus on the bypass psi but without a test bench its worthless.
But hey, they focus on this number and impose it on all filters.

If you can't trust all of the aftermarket filter manufacturers to spec the right filter for your car, like the Subie then you have more issues than just oil filters. As we have seen flow vs delta p charts for the likely much more restrictive P1 and even it shouldn't have any bypass issues unless you are revving at cold temp. Which under this conditions most filters would be in bypass. Millions of Subies live long lives with any speced filter.
 
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
havent heard of any issues with using the incorrect filter either.

Not to be a buzzkill but that magical subaru coolant additive does not work. The head gaskets fail when they fail. Most just leak oil for years and years, while some fail and cause overheating. You dont really haven any control over this..its just luck of the draw.


I don't think you can say that. Its almost a guarantee that once they leak they are eventuallyonna' fail but no one can say that the "conditioner" doesn't allow it to go further.

Also no one can say that the conditioner doesn't prevent the gasket from leaking at an earlier time.

I always used the conditioner on my 08 and at 123K it actually started dripping coolant. A pre 2004 is guaranteed to leak sooner than later.
 
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This is the only proof i have that i wont personally use it in my vehicles.
 
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72

This is the only proof i have that i wont personally use it in my vehicles.

Why not? Its understood that its stop leak. Subaru recommends it. Gm vehicles have been using a similar product for decades.

As mentioned I used it for 125k miles and when the engine heads were removed, the internal surfaces were spotless.
 
Subaru recommended it as part of their campaign to avoid replacing head gaskets. It was a band aid meant to last through the warranty.

The consensus is that it has helped owners reach the 100K mark give or take without having to replace head gaskets. passing the buck onto the owner later down the road.

The new subaru problem is oil consumption..which they have a class action lawsuit. The new band aid? 0W20 synthetic REQUIRED

http://www.subaruofkeene.com/synthetic-oil.htm


I am not a subaru hater by any means..i love mine..but i did pay for my own head gaskets.. and it was a known flaw in my engine that should have been recalled and fixed on their dime. Did i use the conditioner? yes. Did it work? obviously not.

I was almost going to buy a 2013 subaru forester last year until i found out about the oil burning issue. If i did i would own a 2001 forester that was a head gasket victim, a 2003 Forester that will be a head gasket victim and is currently a piston slap victim (another design flaw). and an oil burner that is being bandaided with 0W20.

I know ive hijacked this guys thread..i apologize.
 
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72

The consensus is that it has helped owners reach the 100K mark
The new subaru problem is oil consumption..which they have a class action lawsuit. The new band aid? 0W20 synthetic REQUIRED m

Did i use the conditioner? yes. Did it work? obviously not.

I was almost going to buy a 2013 subaru forester last year until i found out about the oil burning issue. and an oil burner that is being bandaided with 0W20.



Again the consensus is that the Conditioner extends life of the HG. It probably extended mine and yours. Is it a bandaid? Yes.

As far as the 0W-20 oil requirement..that's not a bandaid. Why would you say that. There will never be a successful class action on the ring coating issue in the 2013. Its been addressed, fixed and owners have been for the most part been taken care of. Those that aren't allowed their engine oil go to the point that the engine was destroyed.

I don't think this is a hyjack. We are talking about Subarus and oil.
 
Originally Posted By: krismoriah72
Subaru recommended it as part of their campaign to avoid replacing head gaskets. It was a band aid meant to last through the warranty.

The consensus is that it has helped owners reach the 100K mark give or take without having to replace head gaskets. passing the buck onto the owner later down the road.

The new subaru problem is oil consumption..which they have a class action lawsuit. The new band aid? 0W20 synthetic REQUIRED

http://www.subaruofkeene.com/synthetic-oil.htm


I am not a subaru hater by any means..i love mine..but i did pay for my own head gaskets.. and it was a known flaw in my engine that should have been recalled and fixed on their dime. Did i use the conditioner? yes. Did it work? obviously not.

I was almost going to buy a 2013 subaru forester last year until i found out about the oil burning issue. If i did i would own a 2001 forester that was a head gasket victim, a 2003 Forester that will be a head gasket victim and is currently a piston slap victim (another design flaw). and an oil burner that is being bandaided with 0W20.

I know ive hijacked this guys thread..i apologize.


Ok, not addressing a "hater" but we need to be more accurate.

The "oil burning" issues is a unicorn (semi-technical term). Rare but widely believed. Last I heard, it was a PROPOSED class-action. First folks suing claim they PAID thousands of dollars of repairs for vehicles still under warranty... that there should be a red-flag. Most were a ring issue and was repaired (Subaru covered). Other claims are likely a combination of extended OCI, lower weights, and adding a oil-level monitor. Since 95% of folks likely don't check their oil, the monitor lead to folks who used to put-around without a clue what actual consumption would be... because this issue arose when the oil life monitor was added. Even known Toyota oil-burners have legendary reliability. Still, the reported oil burn/usage is infrequent but even Subaru has classified 1200mi per quart as being potentially normal.. My 2014 burn almost no significant oil for every 6000OCI (I have a more severe driving service routine). Yes, they "require" synthetic because 0w20 is the only available at that interval it is the only flavor. Actually, 0w20 might be a related factor to the increase oil consumption... so the 0w20 is NOT a band-aid to oil burning. In theory, (if you want to ignore the warranty) you can use 5w30 as it is spec-ed for the same engines in Europe. I would not do it in a vehicle under warranty, but when my warranty is up, it would not matter. 0w20 is more about squeezing a few extra MPG from the vehicles... not a CAFE issue since most Subies are "light duty trucks" thus not needing to hit as high of targets but rather for advertizing compared to their rivals. Hitting that 30 and 32 mpg mark for Outback and Foresters is good for the sale dept.

Subaru HG were not reported to be failing under the warranty. It was commonly between the 90-130K range (although many 200-300k+ examples can be found) and each year-range was slightly different. The 1996-1999 HG issue is different from the 00-03/4. Actually Subaru changed the design to address the HG issue only to have a 3rd party supplier drop the ball on the HG By 2004, the HG failure rate was significantly lower, but by then the critical eye was cast. The Phase I issues are a result of boring the 2.2 to a 2.5 and the manufacturing tolerance was slim. The phase I had about a 1 IN 7 chance to develop in a suspect vehicle. The Phase II rates were higher but the symptoms were easier to spot and you could limp them indefinitely. The Phase II were an flaw within the 3rd party-supplier composite material. Sure, Subaru added the Holtz stuff but it can work small leaks.

Piston Slap: That is Genuine Subaru Accessory... at least during the GM era. Nothing says flat-4 without the diesel sound coming from the engine. It does not damage the vehicle and there is a fix available if you want to fix the vehicle. Nothing to worry about.

If you want to complain about "known flaws", speak with my about Honda Transmissions, Toyota Pre-Cat failures, or the entire vehicle if it is a Chrysler. A HG issue for 100K vehicles sticks but it is cheaper than the Honda transmission or the new 1ZZ-FED engine/rebuild. That is $3K+


Now that is what thread-jacking is all about.
 
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Unicorn: (oil consumption)
http://www.edmunds.com/subaru/forester/2014/consumer-reviews/review-286803830262366208/

http://forums.consumerreports.org/discussions/Maintenance_and_Repair/_/_/carsmaintenance/4074.1

Subarus answer? Page 459 of the 2015 Subaru Forester Manual" you should check your oil at least every 2nd fuel fill-up and change your engine oil more frequently. If your oil consumption rate is greater than 1 quart every 1,200 miles or 1 liter every 2,000 kilometers, contact your SUBARU dealer who may perform a test under controlled conditions."


Proposed class action lawsuit: (confirmed and filed)
http://www.chimicles.com/subaru-oil-consumption-class-action-lawsuit

I dont have a dog in this fight, but i did almost purchase a 2014 forester and have delayed my purchase indefinately due to the above issues.

To keep the highjack alive.. Bought my mother a 1998 Honda Accord V6 in 1999 to later find out that the automatic transmissions are flawed. She made it to 140000 and we sold it slipping in every gear. Replaced that accord with a 2006 Toyota Camry last year with the 2AZ-FE and found out that the head bolts strip and cause overheating..sold that one too. Cars ive had that are flawed? 1998 Camry with the 1MZ V6..sludger. 2003 Toyota Corolla 1ZZ-FE diagnosed with oil burning due to defective pistons.

So i am not a 'hater' of subarus, hondas, or toyotas...just aware and cautious of each ones design flaws that get passed on to the used car market and somehow i end up with them.

Cars in my stable now:
2001 Forester- head gaskets sealed.. 400K miles coming up..may be bulletproof.
2012 Honda Fit- Seems to be bulletproof except for battery and tire issues.
2008 Toyota Camry- Dodged the head bolt issue but seems that its going to be an oil burner. there is a possible class action lawsuit for this motor also..http://www.carcomplaints.com/news/2014/attorneys-investigate-complaints-toyota-excessive-oil-consumption.shtml
2003 Subaru Forester- head gaskets leaking oil onto exhaust but not major yet, Piston slap has gotten excessive. Currently for sale.
 
Originally Posted By: FutureDoc
[quote=krismoriah72
Now that is what thread-jacking is all about.


That was awesome. But as Al said above, as long as were talking Subu and oil, we're on topic!

I looked up Genuine Subaru parts online and a made in USA genuine Subaru oil filter lists for $6.59. No chance of bypass issues or fitment issues there. Is their efficiency up there with P1, TG or Ultra? I don't know, didn't find much about them.

I know this car is entering the needed maintenance age, but so much cheaper than a new car. I did the rear brakes, front and rear diff fluids this past fall. As suggested, will do rad DF, plugs, wires, TB clean and cabin air filter. I'm pretty sure Mom got transmission "service" at the 60K service, just a drain/fill I believe. Assuming no major issues crop up, like HG or wheel bearings or CV, the car should last until Mom can't drive any more.

Other than regular maintenance, this car has needed one AC repair (Evaporator?) and 2 batteries in twelve years. Other than oil, it's gotten a set of front and rear pads, two sets of tires, and the occasional set of wiper blades. It's got a couple parking lot dings, and a couple paint spots on the hood from stone chips, but underneath, when I did the brakes, it looks almost like a new car. Fasteners on and off with relative ease, not rusted in place. And this is the heart of the rust belt!
 
krismoriah72, similar car history. Former Honda Fit owner as well. 1ZZ-FED in the MR2 and the EJ25 Phase I engine... which some would claim that it is the "worst" subaru engine of all time. Still a darn good engine but a step-down from the impossible to kill 2.2s by Subaru standards.
I wish you better luck with vehicles. Seems like you have had a string of them. If it is a good design but a bad part, then hopefully it can be addressed (like the HG issue) but some folks dump it on the next person or ignore it and cause bigger issues.

In any case, Subaru had been fixed ring issues under warranty and subaru has a track record of supporting their product even past the legal requirement... but they don't cut blank checks. If Subaru is not covering something, then I guess it was the owners "fault" (loosely... they must be being dodgy) not doing something... SoA is not the "go pound sand" type of corporate reputation. The trick is that this ring issue is relatively "rare" compared to the model run and not symptomatic like the Phase II HG issue. Not all FB engines are developing issues and by co-worker in the office next door had his '13 for 96K (long commute) without issues before trading it in.

Still, Phase II HG do not leak oil... they leak coolant externally. Your Forester is not the "Subaru" HG failure for the Phase II engine commpnly reported. Leaking/blowing oil into the exhaust is a different issue normally.

Subaru's answer is the correct answer... check you oil. If it is excessive, then have the dealer (or a mechanic) check it.

A design flaw, check out a Chrysler. (Former Chrysler family... and I have 7 in my fleet). That is an issue when the same part fails 2-4 times in 60K miles. Sure, I have some that are 150K plus but they are frankenbolts. If I have to replace another EGR or thermostat housing... or random electrical component. Shesh.

...banter, banter, banter, banter, banter...

Ok Melman... The Subaru have lower efficiencies 96% at 20 microns the last I looked (which might have been a while. Can't go wrong with them. I personally like WIX because they are based/made about 2 hours from where I live (used to support Purolator for a similar reason before the tears). Well you are not to the mile-marker yet, but you might want to start thinking timing belt if it has not been done. It is 105k or 105 months (8 years, 9 month). Heck, the belt could be "fine" but the tensioners might be the item to address. Might as well swap it out. You did well with the diff fluid. That is something folks forget about. New oil there can make a noticeable different (i think) for the Subies.
 
FutureDoc, yeah sorry i just got frustrated with car shopping recently..had to replace my mothers honda accord and wifes lexus..and wifes forester...seemed like every car we liked had some kind of issue (oil burning, and head bolts stripping etc)..

Melman, here is a good read for your questions about oil filters for the sube https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1410171

On your question about the trans fluid- there should be a spin on filter, on the side of the trans- those are often neglected. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2807032. I use the wix/napa 51365 and Maxlife Dex/Merc

I will add that I currently use the wix/napa 57712/7712 filter..but my forester and another forester that i had saw 300K miles on Frams or whatever was cheapest.

You said earlier that you were going to youtube the PCV valve..its on the plenum and has to be removed with a socket, i will tell you that its not wise to fool with it unless you are prepared to get the hose that attaches.. they usually become very brittle with age, and break when you go to check them...but YMMV
I am attaching a pic of the PCV and the Trans filter.

pcv1.jpg



15283d1261443974-2005-ob-oil-filter-imag0021.jpg
 
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2807032.[/URL] I use the wix/napa 51365 and Maxlife Dex/Merc

Unless its changed you shouldn't use an aftermarket auto-transmission filter. They filter 100% of the oil on each pass. The OEM filter filters only 10% or so each pass and most of the oil passes through a strainer. There is anecdotal evidence that aftermarket filters over time cause problems with the auto transmission.

The OEM will reduce downstream pressures bc of the higher delta P.
 
I second the Transmission filter. It is $36 from Subaru but worth it. We should be thankful to Subaru for making it that easy. I also recommend the Valvoline Maxlife AT fluid. Castrol made it a bit wonky... and did not feel right. VML and it was happy.
 
Trans filter- the spin on filter is not to be changed unless damaged, or transmission fails per the manual.

Some of us do change the filters to the Napa/Wix
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/89-o...-oil-fluid.html

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/2807032/1

I went with the wix/napa
http://www.wixfilters.com/Lookup/PartDetails.aspx?Part=51365

Prior to 1999 the 4EAT didnt have a filter, and around 2006 they started using block off plates, 2007 had no filter at all.

I wont go into the internal filter..
 
Subaru's have for a long time been pretty DIY maintenance friendly but just like other manufacturers they make it more and more difficult. As an example making the transmission filter nonservicable in recent years. It's too bad.
 
Originally Posted By: Nate1979
Subaru's have for a long time been pretty DIY maintenance friendly but just like other manufacturers they make it more and more difficult. As an example making the transmission filter nonservicable in recent years. It's too bad.


Tell someone who changes the spark-plugs that Subaru is DIY friendly
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Ok, they are fairly decent.

As for the transmission service, it is because it is a CVT.
You can service the CVT, you just have to be a bit more careful but it is not completely impossible. You don't really have to worry about the CVT "filter" as much. They consider the transmission a "lifetime" item (but changing the fluid is not a bad concept). No changes needed with "normal" operation according to SoA. Actually, if you look at the manual, "severe" service for the CVT is every 24,900 miles. However, the CVT "fluid" does not act like the old 4EAT. I would hope there are not wearing parts to filter out.

Here is a recap on the OB forums
http://www.subaruoutback.org/forums/99-d...uid-change.html
 
Thanks for all the great info. You guys have really gone above and beyond for me and I appreciate it.

The Timing belt is almost certainly original. Is this a DIY friendly job? Is it one of those "mazewell" jobs? You know, as long as you're in there you mazewell do the tensioner, and the idlers, and the water pump, etc.

The transmission fluid is nice and pink, and with Mom's light use, is that filter better left alone, or is it something to get after before problems surface? How much fluid would drain out of the filter housing? Is that the transmission drain in that picture? That would make a transmission service really easy. I know, it would only be a partial drain and fill, but more than most get.

Is that PCV picture looking at the right side of the engine with the TB just to the left? Might leave that alone for the hose reasons. I do have some fuel injection line laying around, wonder if that would fit. Had a fuel leak last winter. Replaced a bit of fuel hose for $10 from AAP, not the $125 estimate from the local garage who was too busy to get at it.
 
Originally Posted By: Melman
Thanks for all the great info. You guys have really gone above and beyond for me and I appreciate it.

The Timing belt is almost certainly original. Is this a DIY friendly job? Is it one of those "mazewell" jobs? You know, as long as you're in there you mazewell do the tensioner, and the idlers, and the water pump, etc.

The transmission fluid is nice and pink, and with Mom's light use, is that filter better left alone, or is it something to get after before problems surface? How much fluid would drain out of the filter housing? Is that the transmission drain in that picture? That would make a transmission service really easy. I know, it would only be a partial drain and fill, but more than most get.

Is that PCV picture looking at the right side of the engine with the TB just to the left? Might leave that alone for the hose reasons. I do have some fuel injection line laying around, wonder if that would fit. Had a fuel leak last winter. Replaced a bit of fuel hose for $10 from AAP, not the $125 estimate from the local garage who was too busy to get at it.


DIY Timing belt: Depends. I say so but the DIY "talent" demanded since the "error" penalty is high. So it is not DIY friendly if you are LOFT (lack of ****ing talent) DIY projects. Yes, it is a 'mazewell" ... more like a "gottadoit".

Yeah, the transmission drain is easy. Oil change simple. I actually have a Fumoto Valve on mine
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so if you want to do several D/F with Xquart precision, it is easier. I think the 4EAT is 9.8qt of fluid capacity but you can only drain about half or a little more than half at a time. I say the transmission filter could go either way. The "claim" it is a nearly lifetime filter but because it is so easy to swap, I say a new filter rarely hurts.

Good spot with the fuel line. Did it happen around the fuel filter? That is where I had an issue.
 
Timing belt job= mazewell/wishediddunnit

to do the job correctly its timing belt/water pump/tensioners/idler pulleys/oil seal/cam seal replacement time.

Is it a DIY friendly job? sure with the right tools and patience. Online support is high, plenty of pics etc. A shop manual would be handy for someone that has never done it before. Its one of those questions you have to ask yourslf, would I rather do it myself or pay a shop? Here is a good thread about what it costs to have your TB done at a shop: http://www.subaruforester.org/vbulletin/f88/timing-belt-service-cost-labor-hrs-102206/

The filter in question on the transmission should probably be left alone in your case. Looking back i probably should have left mine alone, its just a metal screen and a very small filter for catching large debris.

Transmission fluid looks pink? Should be dark red. Yes that plug is the drain for the transmission. DexIII was what came in the vehicle, but its not as good as the new formulas..

http://www.valvoline.com/products/brands/maxlife/automatic-transmission-fluid/37

The above is Honda Z-1, Toyota T-IV, and allison compatible.. more than enough for your stout 4EAT transmission.

PCV hose/fuel injection line- no i dont think that will work. Its a specially formed hose. You can make one yourself with the right heater hose and elbows...but probably much cheaper to just get one at your dealer. The last one i broke..the dealer didnt have one in stock..but they had several blown engines laying around and the parts guy was nice enough to go get one off and give it to me. YMMV
 
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