Stuck spark plug wire on Taurus Vulcan rear bank

[PandaBear]

One of the spark plug wire seems to be stuck on the rear bank middle cylinder of my Taurus (Vulcan engine). The wire boot can easily rotate, but I just cannot pull it out no matter how hard I try.

Anyone seen this before? I had used some (not a lot) of the dielectric grease that came with the wire (changed 20k miles ago) when I accidentally crimped it with the valve cover when replacing a leaky gasket. The current wire on it is Denso First Time Fit (apparently doesn't fit anymore after the first time).

 

[mechanicx]

It happens all the time and ofentimes the wire and boot only come off after pulling out of the wire terminal leaving it still connected to the plug (easily removed with pliers). Then you have to replace the wire.

 

[dishdude]

The connector probably arced and welded itself to the plug.

 

[tig1]

Take off the air intake. That's what I did on my 2000 Taurus. Easy to get to then.

 

[Trav]

Quote:
The wire boot can easily rotate, but I just cannot pull it out no matter how hard I try.


Spray WD40 on the wire down near the boot. This may assist in puling the boot up the wire leaving the connector on the plug without pulling the wire out of it.
You can then pull the connector off the plug with pliers.

Use WD40 not penetrating oil, some solvents can have negative effects on the wire or boot material. WD is pretty harmless and lubes rubber and silicon compounds well for a short time.

 

[yonyon]

If you're left handed: Look, there are some things that can be ten times harder if you're left- or right-handed. This is one of those. Get someone else to do it.

Otherwise:
With the air box off you can reach the rear plug boots with one hand almost as easily as you can reach the fronts. Spray the wire with the cheap silicone spray lube that's mostly acetone and little proper lube, then slide the boot up away from the connector. Pull the connector off the plug with needlenose pliers. Slide the boot back into place.

 

[Trav]

No offense but I have to disagree with spraying silicone anywhere in the engine compartment. True it will probably have dissipated long before restart but silicone is a known O2 sensor killer even in minuscule amounts and IMHO best avoided especially with the airbox removed.

For this reason i only ever recommend WD40.
Silicone for gaskets are for the most part O2 sensor safe as is die electric grease but most sprays are not.

 

[yonyon]

That's why I'm recommending the el-cheapo stuff with almost no real silicone in it. It's slippery as you can imagine while diluted with the carrier solvent, but once that's gone there isn't enough left to be any real concern. With the cheapest of the cheap stuff you can spray it directly onto a new oxygen sensor (can't imagine why you'd want to except as a test) before installing and not have enough silicone there to be a real problem.

 

[dishdude]

Just yank the wire off and replace it.

 

[The Critic]

Would one of these help?

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52990-Spark-Plug-Pliers/dp/B001PN88NC/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_b

 

[SwampSurvivor]

Those rear plugs on the Vulcan are fun to replace!

Not as bad as the Duratec from what I hear

 

[Bgallagher]

Originally Posted By: The Critic
Would one of these help?

http://www.amazon.com/Lisle-52990-Spark-Plug-Pliers/dp/B001PN88NC/ref=pd_bxgy_auto_text_b


+1 use the proper tool. You might need to put your back into it but it is the right tool to use. Twist and pull. Be sure to replace the plugs when doing the wires and use dieletric grease on the ends and inside (help seal out moisture and prevent wire freeze next time.) When I mean inside I mean just inside the boot, not the entire thing. Dap and smear it with your finger.

 

[JustinH]

Harbor freight sells boot pliars for a couple bucks. Buy two sets, you will probably break or bend one, they are very cheap but work.

 

[PandaBear]

Also found out that rock auto sell single wire. Will try the boot pliers and removal tool as soon as I got the new wire on hand. Thanks.

 

[yonyon]

Originally Posted By: PandaBear
Also found out that rock auto sell single wire. Will try the boot pliers and removal tool as soon as I got the new wire on hand. Thanks.


Once you have the new wire on hand you won't need the pliers. A small folding pocket knife or similar implement will cut the boot right off and then removing the wire is a snap. If you don't have pliers that will easily fit in and grab it, just rock the terminal back and forth until it sort of widens and is very easy to pull off. The wire will be useless at that point unless you happen to have a spare boot, but you'll have a complete spare wire so all is well!

 

[PandaBear]

Ford dealer also let you custom order single wire, at around $15 each, same price as rockauto shipped. I am able to eventually yank the stuck wire out, and found out why it was stuck. It turns out that the plug was loose, not tighten down to the head, and the exhaust gas partially melted the boot to the plug.

Also found out that the Motorcraft wire is EXACTLY the same as the Denso First Time Fit, down to the molding and the first 2 letter of the character on the boot and wire.