I have a roof rack on top of my 89 Civic Wagon that I want to remove. It has 2 mounting rails, one on each side of the roof. Each side has 3 big (#3 or #4) Phillips head screws holding the rail to the roof. They seem very hard but look aluminum in color. I have been able to loosen 5 of the 6 screws, but the last one won't budge. I have sprayed a lot of thread loosener on it with no results. I was thinking, since the stuck screw is in the middle position of the rail, if I removed the 2 end screws, I wonder if I could turn the whole rail assembly counter-clockwise, and sort of unscrew it like that, sort of like a propeller? Does this sound feasible? Does anybody have any suggestions? (I don't care if I do a little damage to the roof, the car isn't worth anything to speak of it, I can't hurt its value. But I don't want to damage the rack).
Stuck Screw
- Thread starter Cogito
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Without seeing it, sounds like a screw extractor would be the way to go, if you can find another screw like the ones thats in there.
Buy, borrow,beg, or steal an impact driver. The kind you set in the proper direction, then hit firmly with a hammer. They've been mentioned here in several different threads to solve several stuck fastener problems. 99% chance one will solve your problem without ruining fastener, rack, or roof.
Bob
Bob
A couple of suggestions.
The first is to use a Phillips bit socket and use a ratchet. Doing it this way allows one hand to apply only downward force on the head of the ratchet while the other hand can do the turning. Much better than one hand applying both pressure and turning force.
The other suggestion is to tighten the screw a little bit first, then start to loosen it. Tightening the screw a little helps break is free, then it's much easier to work out.
The first is to use a Phillips bit socket and use a ratchet. Doing it this way allows one hand to apply only downward force on the head of the ratchet while the other hand can do the turning. Much better than one hand applying both pressure and turning force.
The other suggestion is to tighten the screw a little bit first, then start to loosen it. Tightening the screw a little helps break is free, then it's much easier to work out.
It might work, but you'll probably just tear up your paint. If the screw sticks up at all, you could try clamping on some vice grips.
I don't care about the paint, I don't want to damage the rack though. Can't use vice grips, it's a flathead screw that tapers down from the top and the top is flush with the top of the rail, so there's no way to grab. I was thinking about attacking from the bottom of the roof, inside the car. If I could expose it, maybe a good whack with a chisel might shear it off? Of course the inside of the car won't look to good afterwards....
DON'T DO THAT!
What you'll end up doing is snapping the screw in half if you do it that way.
Try tapping the screw head lightly with a punch and hammer; an 8 ounce should do it. Tap on it lightly and see if that doesn't break it free. What probably happened is either the screw corroded itself to the roof rack or to the roof of the car. Tapping on the screw might break the corrosive bond.
an impact driver would be my #1 choice. otherwise use a speed handle with the proper sized bit. you can put alot of downward pressure at the same time you are applying alot of torque with a speed handle.
This is very true; I consider that to be my "nuclear option."
Kestas
Staff member
I vote for imapct driver. That's what it's made for. It's gotten me out of jams a number of times.
Before changing the Phillips screws to hex heads on the Japanese bikes that I drove for many years an impact driver was the only thing that kept me from pulling the fuel line, turning the petcock, throwing a match, and jumping up and down in glee laughing like a madman while watching it burn.
Hex/Torx head screws are so much easier to deal with, so one wonders why they used so many Phillips heads on the bikes for so many years.
If you bugger it up you'll need to either slot it if you can, maybe with a Dremel, or use an easy out.
Hex/Torx head screws are so much easier to deal with, so one wonders why they used so many Phillips heads on the bikes for so many years.
If you bugger it up you'll need to either slot it if you can, maybe with a Dremel, or use an easy out.
OT: but is that the 4x4 civic wagon? Those were great little cars. Wish I can find one in good shape.
Yeah, I bought it new 18 years ago for $12K. It was one of the first SUVs, before they came up with the acronym. It's been great. Still runs fine (125K miles). The original shocks are still fine, can you believe that? I need a clutch job but after 18 years, I can't complain. I'll probably get rid of it in a few months just because I can afford something newer now. But maybe that's dumb.
Thats a good car, If you have the room at your house I would keep it. Basic liability insurance cant be much. Good winter car.
I have same situation with my 95 Jeep, its old, but I enjoy driving it. It isn't a daily driver ( I call it semi-retired). I have the money for a dozen new Jeeps, but I dont want them. I like mine. Some cars are easier to let go than others. I would give up my 04 Civic before I gave up my Jeep, maybe that's dumb as well...
I have same situation with my 95 Jeep, its old, but I enjoy driving it. It isn't a daily driver ( I call it semi-retired). I have the money for a dozen new Jeeps, but I dont want them. I like mine. Some cars are easier to let go than others. I would give up my 04 Civic before I gave up my Jeep, maybe that's dumb as well...
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