Strut Tower Rust - Opinions?

[Hadrien]

While I was finishing up replacing the starter on my '96 Infiniti G20 yesterday I noticed a nice big rust bubble on the drivers side strut tower. I don't know how I missed it a month ago doing an oil change but I have been swamped with work and was in a hurry to just get some fresh oil in and a new filter on. (Maxlife 5W30 and PureOne PL14477 for those that must know)

Here are a few pics (thumbnails, click to view full size):

Sorry they are poor quality cell phone pics, it was all I had access too at the moment.







Do you guys think this is something that is repairable for the sub $200 range? I know the rust being on the corner bead is bad, but I don't want to chuck this car to the side of the road just yet. Maybe even something I can do myself with an angle grinder and some POR15?

 

[bepperb]

Maybe even something I can do myself with an angle grinder and some POR15?

Well, I'd start with a wire wheel and see what comes off easily, and after that you'll know what you're dealing with. Yeah, this might be something you can take down to bare metal, and prime/paint and be okay with. But, the rust is probably coming from the underside which can't be seen in your pics.

 

[jcwit]

Man that looks nasty. Now I know why I use Rust Check thet most folks say I don't need because they build them so much better today. Ya right!

 

[oilboy123]

What does it look like on the other side?

 

[Hadrien]

Originally Posted By: oilboy123
What does it look like on the other side?


I have no idea yet, I would have to do some disassembly to even get a peek.

 

[BGK]

The reason you have rust is:

1. Most cars do not have top notch rust protection. Check out the under hood and chassis finish on an American or most Japanese car vs most German cars. There is no comparison. Also note that most German cars are laser welded and American and Japanese vehicles typically use spot welds. What do you think will hold up longer over time?

2. Check out the rust warranty from these different manufacturers; if you live in a rust prone part of the US, don't buy a vehicle that has a lousy rust warranty.

 

[Scdevon]

Slather it with a bit of grease and used (or new) engine oil. It'll wick into all the nooks and crannies of the rust and freeze the rust in suspended animation. Not pretty, but it works.
Make some homemade waxoyl out of some melted paraffin in heated engine oil and brush it liberally on the opposite side of the strut tower since that cancer spot started from the outside in. You need to keep oxygen from coming in contact with the metal. It's not rocket science. Waxoyl works best.

 

[bustednutz]

As a manager of a Collision center I really don't think that the rust is coming from the other side. Thats minor from what I can see. Ever been to Upstate NY? You'll see some serious rust issues there. Get a dremel with a wire wheel. Take it down to bare metal, prime it and spray it with undercoating. You'll be fine.

 

[AcuraTech]

Sometimes I wonder what life is like outside of the rust belt. Must be nice!

Then again, I really don't care to deal with crushing heat and humidity and poisonous biting critters.

 

[Kestas]

Scrape off the loose stuff and get some rustproofing on there as soon as possible before the winter season sets in. After 13 years, you can't expect much from any factory corrosion protection used on the panels.

 

[eljefino]

Looks like something is riveted to the backside? If there's plastic etc up against metal in the inner side of that strut tower it's trapping sand and grit and rotting from inside out.

 

[Hadrien]

Yeah it is supposed to be really nice here this weekend. I think I am going to take the battery and intake off again and see how deep the rust hole goes. I am truly hoping it is something I can "repair" myself. I love the car and am not truly ready to give it up yet even though its value is in the "beater" class now due to this rust and it's age.

 

[mechtech2]

Take care of the problem as soon as you can.
An amateur will dab at it - a pro will dive in and get all the bad stuff away, then attempt his repairs. Choose the latter or you will be doing this over again.

 

[oilboy123]

Epoxy is another option. It will seal air out very well. My Brother in law uses it for all kinds of things in relation to his Remote under water vehicles he manufactures in San Diego. I worked there for 2.5 years.
I never knew it was such a versatile product. After working with his company I have a new found respect for epoxy applications. He has vehicles that go to 1500 meters that are smaller than a suitcase. We used epoxy to seal in many different ways with the sub assemblies that go into the vehicles.