Struggling with 2003 Camry update

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You guys are turning this into a troll thread, and ruining it like the last camry thread, please stop, note I did NOT do any of that

So I think I tore my control arm bushing on the right while working on the right ball joint, there are 2, the "rearward" or round one as well as the "forward" one which is thin.

they're like 40ish each moog at aap, but I just need the rearward one, and I heard you can use a ball joint press to press it in, and a control arm (moog) is 100ish without the ball joint, I asked yesterday, but I can just use the ball joint I currently have.

Is pressing control arm bushings in hard or no? Thanks.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
You guys are turning this into a troll thread, and ruining it like the last camry thread, please stop, note I did NOT do any of that

You've got it all twisted, E20. Patient people waded through your ADD ramblings & nonsensical questions and answered them. Yet you don't acknowledge or appreciate that and instead continue posting migraine-inducing walls-of-texts that lack coherence or organization. In your posts, you often ask the same questions ad nauseum that people answered like five responses (or pages) back. Even the people on the Camry forum are tired of your gimmick.
 
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Engineer20:

Rockauto has complete brand new Moog control arms WITH ball joints, and all the control arm bushings already installed and ready to go for $49 each.

No need to mess around with pressing in bushings and removing them. A lot of the time you need a compressor with an air-chisel to get the old bushings out.

Unbolt, bolt in, good to go
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
So I think I tore my control arm bushing on the right while working on the right ball joint, there are 2, the "rearward" or round one as well as the "forward" one which is thin.

they're like 40ish each moog at aap, but I just need the rearward one, and I heard you can use a ball joint press to press it in, and a control arm (moog) is 100ish without the ball joint, I asked yesterday, but I can just use the ball joint I currently have.

Is pressing control arm bushings in hard or no? Thanks.


As someone who is really trying to help you responsibly (by not getting you killed or other people killed because of your mistakes).

No, you cannot press a control arm bushing in or out without a hydraulic press. Ball joint press will not work. The only hack people have tried without getting themselves killed within a couple of days is (I'm not going to tell you, for your own safety).

I've said many times you shouldn't do bushing yourself, but you still ask, so who's the troll now?
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
Is pressing control arm bushings in hard or no? Thanks.


Very easy if you have a 20T press which you can buy from HF on sale with a coupon.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
watch this
https://youtu.be/aPbL9HTHZg0

this is where i get the "bushing replacement" idea from. what's the worst that can happen if you drive around with a bad bushing or a bad control arm?


I do not want to address the worst case scenario because it will involve the deaths of innocent people. I will tell you the best case. Your car will run off the road. No other car will be affected and you will sustain minor injuries from which you will recover 100% but will be unable to post for 6 months.
 
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Originally Posted By: engineer20
watch this
https://youtu.be/aPbL9HTHZg0

this is where i get the "bushing replacement" idea from. what's the worst that can happen if you drive around with a bad bushing or a bad control arm?


The worse for bad bushing is just bumpy ride, you are unlikely to get into serious trouble if you drive responsibly. You know, the ride quality between new vs old car on not so bumpy road is usually worn out bushing, so it just drives like an old car instead of new. The consequence for a badly installed new bushing on an old control arm could be traffic accidents, serious ones.

That looks like a upper control arm on a double wishbone / A arm type of suspension. The upper arm as you can see is so small and is not load bearing (meaning the weight of the car is not sitting on it), only to change the suspension geometry when it is under different load. It has small bushing and yes you will not get much resistance pushing it in and out with a vice or C clamp.

The whole weight of the car sits on the lower control arm (at least the front of the car which is usually 60% on a front wheel drive), so if you damage the control arm while getting the bushing in and out, it will split in half and your whole front fell on the road, wheel tilted sideway and rolling onto the inner fender. You lose control and either hit something on the side of the road, the opposite traffic, or if you are driving on the highway the car will roll over (maybe a few times too).

Like this:

quarterview.jpg


Are you feeling lucky?
 
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Originally Posted By: artbuc
Originally Posted By: engineer20
Is pressing control arm bushings in hard or no? Thanks.


Very easy if you have a 20T press which you can buy from HF on sale with a coupon.


And the press will cost more than a new control arm with new bushing already installed.

Which means E20 now has to buy 20 more cars with bad bushings to fix and sell to recoup his investment.
 
Thank you Panda for that photo....I had warned E20 A YEAR or more AGO that loose/weak suspension parts would result in this and E20 willfully ignores the risk and as a result endangers us all.

Such willful ignorance should be a warning to all....
 
I asked, about 60 in labor at a shop with the press to remove/press in the new bushing, then I can instasll the control arm myself
isn't getting a used control arm a bad idea, as it could have a bad bushing too or a bushing that's that old could start going bad soon, so you might as well buy a new bushing

why else would one change a control arm beside a bad bushign? what can go wrong with a control arm, and what parts go bad after a car crash/accident/collision? the suspension seems like it'd go bad, but what parts, and what other parts aside from suspensions may get damanged in a car collision (work/damage other than body/cosmetic, or mechanical repairs that commonly take place after a car accident?) Thanks.
 
Yes, junkyard control arm can have bad bushing, and $60 to press in new bushing is still more expensive than buying new aftermarket control arm with bushing already installed (like others already point out). You are not saving a lot of money pressing vs whole arm replacement, but at least it is safer than trying to press it in wrong.

You also need to preload the bushing before tightening the control arm bolts up. This means you don't tighten the bolts until you lower the car back on the wheel. If you tighten the bushing bolts when the car is still on jack stands, your bushings will be stressed more than usual and will not last long.


If you hit something and the control arm bent, you want to replace the whole arm (I've seen it happen). Usually suspension wear and tear in bushing and in accident something "bent", wheel bearing damaged, frame bent, and the usual body panel and bumper damage, etc.

Was your car in an accident? If so and if the frame is bent it may never go straight without professional help (like frame straightening) that cost more than totaling your car.
 
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You want to pay someone to press in bushings when you can spend less money on brand new control arms that already have bushings and ball joints?
 
E20 you've made three posts of continued babble AFTER Nick's post where he helpfully offered a complete solution to the problem.

You did not even attempt some crazy reasoning to dismiss what he offered. All your little troll mind could do was hope that no one saw it.

So, rack off, troll.
 
E20, I understand the desire to DIY. It seems like a hobby to you and my hat is off to ya. I'm more than willing to help you (if I can) except I need a bit more details about the situation.
 
i'm considering having a shop press the bushing in, then install myhself, if the shop did it, it's 2 hrs 160 in labor, but 60 in labor just to press it in, so i save 100 by installing the same control arm with a new bushing. If I already did a ball joint, I heard it's the same procedure, except 2 more bolts that hold the contorl arm in, so I coudl be able to do it, unless they are crazy hard to access or something.
Also, I boiught some CRC white lithium grease at walmart as well as on sale (only 3 dollars, considering normally 5.97) for wd40 white lithium grease, apparently wd40 is the superior one, but I sprayed that on my power windows to see if it'd make it go up faster, apparently not, but the SILICONE lube that I sprayed made it go up faster. As a side effect, though, I noticed the white lithium grease did NOT come off and is still on the window and is durable and has survived a car wash as well as road salt. A guy at autozone mentioend how after the springtime, he'll clean his car up and spray white lithium grease underneath as well as the kind in the tubes. So now my question is, I know people spray rubberized undercoating under their vehicle's undercarriage to rustproof their cars. Woudl spraying white lithium grease (seems more durable) underneath your car's undercarriage be a good rustproofing option, and if so, wha'ts better, rubberized undercoating, or white lithium grease (silicone lube, doesn't seem like it'd work, would be too thin) but the silicone helped to lube my poower window as well as my seatbelt (the sealtbelt would get stuck all the time on the camry).
 
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