Stripping oil pan paint when using B12 for piston soak?

Owen Lucas

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Planning on doing a piston soak on the 2009 Scion xB oil burner.

Ai advised that B12 (toluene, acetone and methanol) could be too strong for the inner oil pan paint, and send the residue into the oil pump, potentially clogging it. Ai can be wrong though!

Has anyone seen oil pan paint get stripped out before? I have confirmed the OEM pan, which is on the vehicle, comes painted from the factory.

I don't feel like removing the pan for an engine flush. Have any of you seen oil pan paint get stripped out before?

I plan on overfilling to 6 qts with cheap new oil to help buffer the dissolved solvents.


09 xB OEM Oil Pan.webp
 
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I used B12 on the piston soak for my sons Kia Rio. Worked great. I didn't see any issues with paint stripping. I did immediately drain oil and refill. Then changed again after 1,000 miles. New spark plugs too.

I think you're fine. My $.02.
New plugs for sure. I actually have an extra set.

Ai mentioned a few incidents with "paint coming off in sheets" clogging the oil screen.

I'd like to go the DMSO route but apparently that is so strong, it will strip anything including compromising gaskets/seals. A nuclear approach indeed.
 
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New plugs for sure. I actually have an extra set.

Ai mentioned a few incidents with "paint coming off in sheets" clogging the oil screen.

I'd like to go the MDMSO route but apparently that is so strong, it will strip anything including compromising gaskets/seals. A nuclear approach indeed.
I have never heard of that, but B12 is a pretty strong solvent, so I suppose anything is possible. I can tell you it's been a year and I haven't had any issues. Car doesn't burn a drop of oil now. Worked really well.
 
New plugs for sure. I actually have an extra set.

Ai mentioned a few incidents with "paint coming off in sheets" clogging the oil screen.

I'd like to go the MDMSO route but apparently that is so strong, it will strip anything including compromising gaskets/seals. A nuclear approach indeed.
If anything that sounds like someone did a B12 oil pan flush or at least filled the cylinders with B12.
 
That's my plan. Hence overfilling the sump with oil so the concentration of the solvents in the oil is not too strong.
When I do a piston soak I do one application of synthetic hydraulic fluid, 15cc or less and let it sit over a weekend. A long weekend is preferred. Saved 2 diesel engines with carbon seized rings so far so it definitely works.
Definitely zero dangerous of stripping engine paint off the inside of the engine.
 
When I do a piston soak I do one application of synthetic hydraulic fluid, 15cc or less and let it sit over a weekend. A long weekend is preferred. Saved 2 diesel engines with carbon seized rings so far so it definitely works.
Definitely zero dangerous of stripping engine paint off the inside of the engine.
I'll look into it. Sound smuch safer than a strong solvent. Thank you!

I'd do go the DMSO route but I don't want to drop the pan.
 
When I do a piston soak I do one application of synthetic hydraulic fluid, 15cc or less and let it sit over a weekend. A long weekend is preferred. Saved 2 diesel engines with carbon seized rings so far so it definitely works.
Definitely zero dangerous of stripping engine paint off the inside of the engine.
whats the chemical process of using syn hydraulic fluid to break up carbon on the rings?
@kschachn ?
 
whats the chemical process of using syn hydraulic fluid to break up carbon on the rings?
@kschachn ?
Idk. Probably all the detergent.
I figured PAO+ester based fluid was the best thing that I had on hand to do the job without trying to convince someone to spend money on something.
Plus the synthetic hydraulic fluid was already loaded in a squirt can sitting on a nearby shelf ready to rock and roll.
Fuel injector cleaner may have worked just as well or better, but I'd have to get it first, find one of those squirt cans, dump the oil or hydraulic fluid out of it and refill it with injector cleaner and purge out the original oil. Then when I was done using it after about 10 seconds, dump out the injector cleaner and refill it with what was originally in there and purge out the injector cleaner.
I had been using whatever is in the industrial parts washer but it had been out of commission for a while and as of today is once again.
I'm just going to stick with the synthetic hydraulic fluid that's already in the squirt can.
 
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@Owen Lucas don't go DMSO route. Nuclear indeed, very stinky, and seals don't like it. Neither do any plastic timing chain guides. Requires multiple rinse cycles afterwards.

B12 is fine. Old oil will still be in the pan, correct? It will keep B12 in check, mild mix. Now Straight B12 into an empty and dry oil pan? Yes, that may cause an issue. I spilled some B12 on a Honda Valve Cover. It was spray painted red, and B12 took that paint off in a jiffy. Again, once B12 makes it to the pan from the piston rings - it will mix with old oil and won't be a danger to the oil pan paint.
 
What syn hydraulic fluid is ester and pao? sounds interesting
How can the OP use that without a link or brand?
 
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