I often find that Honda cars from this era have problems with the distributor itself, not the cap and rotor.
Strange issue with '95 Integra LS - Stalling, etc.
- Thread starter ThirdeYe
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Originally Posted By: artificialist
I often find that Honda cars from this era have problems with the distributor itself, not the cap and rotor.
I thought that, too. I replaced the original distributor (entire assembly) as a preventative measure when I got the car, back in 2007. I'm not sure if it would've gone bad by this point or not... but I suppose it is possible.
I often find that Honda cars from this era have problems with the distributor itself, not the cap and rotor.
I thought that, too. I replaced the original distributor (entire assembly) as a preventative measure when I got the car, back in 2007. I'm not sure if it would've gone bad by this point or not... but I suppose it is possible.
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
Do you think it's possible that a faulty ABS system could cause it to start weird? I don't know how, but I do wonder if it's causing an odd issue, being that it's connected directly to my battery.
You have an obvious problem staring at you in the face: Your battery and its wires. Fix that FIRST. Electricity travels on the surface of conductors. If there is heavy corrosion, you will get high resistance. Replace the cracked battery (the cause of the corrosion), and replace the terminal and any wiring that is corroded.
When you operate the starter, does the engine seem to crank over at a normal speed? Or does it seem to crank at a speed slower than that of other cars?
Turn on the dome light. Now crank and watch the dome light. When you crank, does the dome light dim to nothing?
You need to FEEL THREE CLICKS from the Main Relay. The third click is impossible to hear on account of the starter kicking in at that same instant. Put your fingers on the Relay and SLOWLY run the key through its cycle from 0 to III. You should FEEL the third click.
When the engine does start and run, does it idle at 750rpm in Drive (or in neutral for a manual)? Has the base idle been checked correctly?
Do you think it's possible that a faulty ABS system could cause it to start weird? I don't know how, but I do wonder if it's causing an odd issue, being that it's connected directly to my battery.
You have an obvious problem staring at you in the face: Your battery and its wires. Fix that FIRST. Electricity travels on the surface of conductors. If there is heavy corrosion, you will get high resistance. Replace the cracked battery (the cause of the corrosion), and replace the terminal and any wiring that is corroded.
When you operate the starter, does the engine seem to crank over at a normal speed? Or does it seem to crank at a speed slower than that of other cars?
Turn on the dome light. Now crank and watch the dome light. When you crank, does the dome light dim to nothing?
You need to FEEL THREE CLICKS from the Main Relay. The third click is impossible to hear on account of the starter kicking in at that same instant. Put your fingers on the Relay and SLOWLY run the key through its cycle from 0 to III. You should FEEL the third click.
When the engine does start and run, does it idle at 750rpm in Drive (or in neutral for a manual)? Has the base idle been checked correctly?
^This x2.
Note: My low idle issue has improved since my oil change and just before changing I did a top-end soak with Amsoil Power Foam. Hoping cleaning the TB helped my symptoms.
So, I don't see why also cleaning the throttle body well once a year isn't a bad idea before an oil change, etc.
Note: My low idle issue has improved since my oil change and just before changing I did a top-end soak with Amsoil Power Foam. Hoping cleaning the TB helped my symptoms.
So, I don't see why also cleaning the throttle body well once a year isn't a bad idea before an oil change, etc.
I can't speak directly to Honda engine management, but on our fleet trucks cleaning the MAF often helps strange drivability issues like these.
We do it every time we service the air filters which are all on filterminders.
We do it every time we service the air filters which are all on filterminders.
Tegger -- I will try feeling the click. I always thought I heard it, but it may be something else after I hear the pump prime. The power locks conveniently lock themselves at the exact same time, which may mask the noise.
I had corrosion issues on my battery cables with my old battery, so I replaced it about a year ago, and now I'm getting corrosion only on the metal connector of the ABS for some odd reason. No other corrosion on the new battery that I can see.
When warmed up, it idles at around 700-750 rpms. It seems like I used to remember it idling at around 800 rpms when warmed up after I got the timing belt replaced at the Acura dealership back in 2007.
It does seem to crank at a normal speed.
I'll take a look at the dome light when I start it next.
SteveSRT8 - I do not believe this car has a MAF. I think it has a MAP, however?
JGW - I replaced the fuel filter about 60,000 miles ago, so it may be due again. I believe that is the recommended mileage interval for changing it.
I had corrosion issues on my battery cables with my old battery, so I replaced it about a year ago, and now I'm getting corrosion only on the metal connector of the ABS for some odd reason. No other corrosion on the new battery that I can see.
When warmed up, it idles at around 700-750 rpms. It seems like I used to remember it idling at around 800 rpms when warmed up after I got the timing belt replaced at the Acura dealership back in 2007.
It does seem to crank at a normal speed.
I'll take a look at the dome light when I start it next.
SteveSRT8 - I do not believe this car has a MAF. I think it has a MAP, however?
JGW - I replaced the fuel filter about 60,000 miles ago, so it may be due again. I believe that is the recommended mileage interval for changing it.
Do you have coil-on-plug design?
That contact area can be intermittent and tough to trace.
The other thought I had was an ETC sensor telling the computer the engine is warm when it may not be.
That contact area can be intermittent and tough to trace.
The other thought I had was an ETC sensor telling the computer the engine is warm when it may not be.
Originally Posted By: ThirdeYe
I do not believe this car has a MAF. I think it has a MAP, however?
You have a MAP only. Only a couple or three Honda models ever had a MAF, none of them as old as yours.
You also do not have coil-over-plug; you have a conventional distributor.
I do not believe this car has a MAF. I think it has a MAP, however?
You have a MAP only. Only a couple or three Honda models ever had a MAF, none of them as old as yours.
You also do not have coil-over-plug; you have a conventional distributor.
Do you think it's feasible that out-of-spec valve lash specifications could cause an issue like this? I haven't had them adjusted in a few years.
The strangeness of it is that it only seems to give me this issue after the car is warmed up, and more prevalent in warm weather.
The strangeness of it is that it only seems to give me this issue after the car is warmed up, and more prevalent in warm weather.
^My experience is similar currently with my '92 hatch. If I brake really hard, emergency stop, the car will sometimes stall. I believe this may be due to excessive vacuum? However, my vehicle has a constant vacuum control solenoid. The other Civics of this era were not equipped. Still, it makes me wonder how long the original solenoid can last or if I've got a vacuum leak somewhere with the symptoms being so classic. Surging power, easy to stall. etc.
If you do change the fuel filter, do you have a way to get pressure readings before hand? I plan on changing mine again soon.
IIRC, Honda recommends once every 30,000 miles for the fuel filter? If not it is 60,000.
I doubt the valve lash adjustment would cause this. It wouldn't hurt to check as basic tune-up.
When warm does sound fuel related, however. At least, for Honda's at times. Fuel pump/relay issues.
And Tegger was right on about needing to feel the relay during the startup attempt(the 3rd click). The prime click once key first goes forward, the click after it cuts off the prime, and the 3rd at engine startup.
I've wondered in my own case, whether or not an ICM may be at fault since I've had strange RPM readings before and since the RPMs are to the tach from the ICM signal(the igniter). My coil looked fine, however. Ever so slight red tint to the inside of the distributor area when I remove the cap, worst tends to be signs of a worn out bearing on the distributor itself.
If you do change the fuel filter, do you have a way to get pressure readings before hand? I plan on changing mine again soon.
IIRC, Honda recommends once every 30,000 miles for the fuel filter? If not it is 60,000.
I doubt the valve lash adjustment would cause this. It wouldn't hurt to check as basic tune-up.
When warm does sound fuel related, however. At least, for Honda's at times. Fuel pump/relay issues.
And Tegger was right on about needing to feel the relay during the startup attempt(the 3rd click). The prime click once key first goes forward, the click after it cuts off the prime, and the 3rd at engine startup.
I've wondered in my own case, whether or not an ICM may be at fault since I've had strange RPM readings before and since the RPMs are to the tach from the ICM signal(the igniter). My coil looked fine, however. Ever so slight red tint to the inside of the distributor area when I remove the cap, worst tends to be signs of a worn out bearing on the distributor itself.
Just an update to the thread -- I had the car stall again and I also had another shifting issue. I started my car up after it sat all day in near freezing temperatures, and I put it into drive and it hesitated, as if it didn't want to actually shift into gear for a good 3 seconds or so. It just coasted, until it finally engaged. I didn't notice any fluxuations in the RPMs, it acted as if it was just idling and rolling in neutral.
I'm really at my wits end with it, and I'll probably have a mechanic take a look at it when I have time to do it. Things have been hectic with me starting my new job a little over a week ago. I definitely don't want to get stranded going to or from it.
Edit: I started the car with the dome light on, and it did dim when starting the car up (as I was engaging the starter). It brightened up again when it began running.
I'm really at my wits end with it, and I'll probably have a mechanic take a look at it when I have time to do it. Things have been hectic with me starting my new job a little over a week ago. I definitely don't want to get stranded going to or from it.
Edit: I started the car with the dome light on, and it did dim when starting the car up (as I was engaging the starter). It brightened up again when it began running.
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I took the car in and they couldn't replicate the problem. They did a few routine maintenance things, such as a fuel filter and adjusting the timing, and using a fuel injector cleaner. It hasn't done it since, but it may just be a placebo effect.
Ever since I've owned my car (almost 6 years now), it has only burned a negligible amount of oil. Maybe 1/4 of a quart in 5k miles. This recent oil change was no different, and it was down maybe 1/4 of a quart in 4k miles. In the past few hundred miles, though, when this stalling issue has been going on, I've burned an entire quart of oil. It's never done that before, and I'm stumped. I've never had to add oil to this car during an OCI. I'm wondering if my PCV valve is plugged, perhaps? I changed it about 60-70k ago, so it's probably due again.
Ever since I've owned my car (almost 6 years now), it has only burned a negligible amount of oil. Maybe 1/4 of a quart in 5k miles. This recent oil change was no different, and it was down maybe 1/4 of a quart in 4k miles. In the past few hundred miles, though, when this stalling issue has been going on, I've burned an entire quart of oil. It's never done that before, and I'm stumped. I've never had to add oil to this car during an OCI. I'm wondering if my PCV valve is plugged, perhaps? I changed it about 60-70k ago, so it's probably due again.
PCV valve or PCV system period. Maybe just the valve slowing down? Not likely going from no consumption to a lot with a failed PCV system, but the valve worth checking.
Update to this thread:
I replaced the PCV valve with an OEM one from the dealership. It didn't really seem to make much of a difference. Occasionally after starting the car after it's warmed up and putting it in reverse, it would chug and act like it was going to stall. It seemed better in cold temperatures and didn't really do it much except that initial stint in reverse. Yesterday it was unseasonably warm (55 degrees), and my car was having major difficulties starting. It took a good 5-10 seconds of cranking to get it started the first time after sitting for 8+ hours. It would fire, then crank, fire, crank, then start. Drove it for a while (30 minutes or so), seemed fine. Went through a drive-thru and noticed my car kept misfiring. At first I thought someone behind me bumped into me, but they were far enough behind. I turned the car off while parking at the dentist's office, and got back in and started it up. Put it in reverse, and it was chugging pretty hard. Put it into drive and got maybe 10 feet before it bogged down and stalled. I was able to start it up again without an issue. I drove about 10 minutes, and it bogged out on me again and stalled out at an intersection. Luckily I had enough momentum to pull over to the right-most lane. At that point, it took a good 30 seconds to get it started again. It would crank, fire and sputter, crank, then I eventually got it started by pushing the gas pedal and starting it at the same time.
I've read that these symptoms can be related to the igniter or the ignition coil. However, the symptoms I've read weren't exact.
So far what I've tried:
Fuel Filter
Throttle body cleaning
Fuel injector cleaner
Oil change
Checked distributor cap/rotor, looked fine
Cleaned battery terminals
Replaced PCV valve
Checked air filter, looked fine
Tried using a different key, still had the same issue
Wobbling the key in the ignition while running doesn't make it stall.
Main fuel relay replaced about 4-5 years ago.
Spark plugs replaced 1.5 years ago
Wires replaced 6 years ago or so
I replaced the PCV valve with an OEM one from the dealership. It didn't really seem to make much of a difference. Occasionally after starting the car after it's warmed up and putting it in reverse, it would chug and act like it was going to stall. It seemed better in cold temperatures and didn't really do it much except that initial stint in reverse. Yesterday it was unseasonably warm (55 degrees), and my car was having major difficulties starting. It took a good 5-10 seconds of cranking to get it started the first time after sitting for 8+ hours. It would fire, then crank, fire, crank, then start. Drove it for a while (30 minutes or so), seemed fine. Went through a drive-thru and noticed my car kept misfiring. At first I thought someone behind me bumped into me, but they were far enough behind. I turned the car off while parking at the dentist's office, and got back in and started it up. Put it in reverse, and it was chugging pretty hard. Put it into drive and got maybe 10 feet before it bogged down and stalled. I was able to start it up again without an issue. I drove about 10 minutes, and it bogged out on me again and stalled out at an intersection. Luckily I had enough momentum to pull over to the right-most lane. At that point, it took a good 30 seconds to get it started again. It would crank, fire and sputter, crank, then I eventually got it started by pushing the gas pedal and starting it at the same time.
I've read that these symptoms can be related to the igniter or the ignition coil. However, the symptoms I've read weren't exact.
So far what I've tried:
Fuel Filter
Throttle body cleaning
Fuel injector cleaner
Oil change
Checked distributor cap/rotor, looked fine
Cleaned battery terminals
Replaced PCV valve
Checked air filter, looked fine
Tried using a different key, still had the same issue
Wobbling the key in the ignition while running doesn't make it stall.
Main fuel relay replaced about 4-5 years ago.
Spark plugs replaced 1.5 years ago
Wires replaced 6 years ago or so
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On the Honda CR-V forum I'm on, stalling when cold is strongly associated with valves being out of adjustment. Does that have the B20 engine? Apparently on that engine they tend to get tighter, not looser, and valves start burning. Big $$$ fixes if they are too tight and start burning.
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Mine has a B18, a variant of the B20 which is pretty similar except with a larger bore. I was under the impression that the valves on these got more loose rather than too tight? But that does seem feasible, as I know the clearances change when warmer/colder. It's been a few years since I've had them adjusted.
this really sounds to me like fuel-air. like the fuel system is not holding pressure, or the mixture isn't right. especially the hard start.
a lean mix will cause rough, chugging idle. Low pressure will make it stubborn to start. It will also pop and spit and misfire at higher rpms if it's under load.
a rich mix will start easily unless it's waaay too much and flooding, but will have this invisible rpm wall that you can't get over.
It sounds to me like a pressure regulator is getting flaky. IDK if that's a returnless or a closed loop fuel delivery, so I can't surmise where the regulator is located. Closed-loop or return-type fuel will have a vacuum-biased regulator on the return end of the fuel rail, and it will modulate rail pressure by vacuum. Vacuum leaks or a tired regulator can do this.
m
a lean mix will cause rough, chugging idle. Low pressure will make it stubborn to start. It will also pop and spit and misfire at higher rpms if it's under load.
a rich mix will start easily unless it's waaay too much and flooding, but will have this invisible rpm wall that you can't get over.
It sounds to me like a pressure regulator is getting flaky. IDK if that's a returnless or a closed loop fuel delivery, so I can't surmise where the regulator is located. Closed-loop or return-type fuel will have a vacuum-biased regulator on the return end of the fuel rail, and it will modulate rail pressure by vacuum. Vacuum leaks or a tired regulator can do this.
m
Check the resistance of the coil, sometimes they don't "close" when warm up. Also clean the MAP if you haven't, that made my idle go from stuttering to smooth.
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