STP filter "2 oil changes" unknown miles cut open with sludge deposits!!

I didn't know they did that....that's interesting. I drove 2 Dodge Tradesman vans with the 318 when I was teeneager and both were abused by the regular drivers (in that it was in NYC traffic making deliveries and nobody but me checked the oil etc...) One Saturday I had to add 4 quarts of 10w30 ....it was running on about 1 quart all week. The boss sold that one at over 100K and the guy who bought it ran it for years afterwards. I can't remember what happened to the other van but I think it was simlarly sold after I left the place.
At what mileage did those plastic teeth usually fail? You wonder why engineers make such poor design decisions?

PS: Those 4 quarts of 10w30 were 'Wolf's Head....Finest of the Fine since 1879'.
They usually broke before 100k. A truck or van may have had the steel gears. Cars got plastic.... usually.
 
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I didn't know they did that....that's interesting. I drove 2 Dodge Tradesman vans with the 318 when I was teeneager and both were abused by the regular drivers (in that it was in NYC traffic making deliveries and I was the only driver who checked the oil etc...) One Saturday I had to add 4 quarts of 10w30 ....it was running on about 1 quart all week. The boss sold that one at over 100K and the guy who bought it ran it for years afterwards. I can't remember what happened to the other van but I think it was simlarly sold after I left the place.
At what mileage did those plastic teeth usually fail? You wonder why engineers make such poor design decisions?

PS: Those 4 quarts of 10w30 were 'Wolf's Head....Finest of the Fine since 1879'.
Engineers don't want put plastic gears in engines, bean counters do.
Bean counter logic is if they can make the engines a little quieter and cheaper then they just might be able to sell a few more of them and make a little bit more money off each one.
Bean counters don't care if the engine fails at 10 years, infact they're counting on it.
Engineers want to build engines that lasts 20 to 30 years.
 
They usually broke before 100k. A truck or van may have had the steel gears. Cars got plastic.... usually.
Dodge assembly line:
Use whatever parts are available.
Post some photos! I love that gen Dakota. I almost bought a 98 4x4 brand new for $20k but stupidly bought a Chrysler Cirrus instead.
Yeah I can it's kind of beat up but virtually no rust from living in New Mexico and west Texas.
If the engine or transmission took a dump I would probably fix it. As it has the larger rear end and the tougher re46 transmission.
 
Had a 318 in a PowerWagon - added manifold, AFB, and headers …
Drove it 17 years - sold to a rancher - he took the plates off and then worked it on his land …
 
My 2,100 mile oil change was just about perfect.
You can see the dirt on the end cap of the filter. This is after leaving it upside down to drain for a few days.
I refilled it with about 2 quarts of old redline 5w-30 and the remainder of Pennzoil platinum 5w-30 (not pup) and a wix xp51515 oversized rock catcher.
With all that dirt after 2,100mi on that standard sized filter I may need the 10 grams of dirt capacity of the bigger one if I'm going to run it for 4,000mi and 9 months to 1 year.
There were plenty of dirt specks hanging out in the filter pleats too.
Good thing about paper filters is the big chunks of dirt settle to the bottom of the filter when the engine is off.
I believe the regular wix and the XP are both paper.
 

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Until the plastic teeth on the cam gear stripped. When that happened the 318 would bend all its exhaust valves.
Yeah. The 318 in my friend's '70 Dart did that, at a little over 100k miles, as best I can recall. That was a common failure on other brands of V8s back then, too.
 
As of this morning I'm at 3,900 miles of that 4,000 mile oil change.
Yeah my wife bought another house for us, mainly me to fix up so been doing a lot more truck stuff.
I'm thinking pull the old oil filter cut it open on the spot and see how much dirt is in it.
If it's got a lot of carbon and sludge in the filter put on another wix xp51515 over sized rock catcher as that filter will hold 18 grams of rocks not the 10g I previously stated and filler up with Valvoline restore and protect.
If it looks pretty clean in the old filter put pup euro and a fram synthetic endurance on there, like a fe8a.
 
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I tested the oil temperature, it was 102f today when I drove home from work. About 30 miles and immediately pulled the oil plug and stuck a torpedo thermometer in the hot oil stream. The oil was a perfect 210f. So I'm going to stick with an oil that ends in 30.
Then I cut open the xp51515 that was on there. There was some dirt in it but not a scary amount. Probably several grams. I don't see any need for the dumpster like 18 grams of dirt capacity or the rock catcher 28gpm of flow of the xp51515.
So I went with the FE8A oil filter and restore and protect 5w-30.
 
Well it only took 3 oil changes over about 6,000 miles to have the oil not look like very old very dirty oil after a few hundred miles.
First oil change and filter cut open at 169,000 miles, definitely something wrong with that oil, very dirty like Diesel tractor that rolls coal dirty. The filter was destressed, pleats had sludge flecks in them and had sludge in the bottom.
Second oil change at about 2,100 miles oil definitely looked worse than a typical 5,000 to 6,000 mile oil change for me. The filter looked better this time but still had more sludge and dirt than a 6,000 mile oil change.
Third oil change at 4,000 miles the oil was definitely done, nice and dirty looking but not blacked out like Diesel tractor oil, the filter had about the same amount of sludge flecks as the 2,100 mile oil change.
The current oil has about 500 miles on it and it still looks new. Previously it was starting to look ready to change by 500 miles.
 
Probably do another oil change when it gets cold, since this is a confirmed sludge motor. Good thing I went with an oversized filter.
 
My oldest son had a 69 Coroner that had the cam gear fail. Cost only 2 valves on one head. Dear old Dad took that job meaning me. Put a metal one in it to replace it. My b200 van had the metal one from the factory. Very reliable.
 
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