STP Ceramic oil treatment

Vladiator, why are you running STP 15W40 Diesel motor oil in a CR-V?
Because that is what I had on hand at the moment, and that was the first oil change after the piston soak. Figured that if any contaminants or deposits got loosened up during the piston soak, and made its way past the rings, then I would rather have diesel oil in the crankcase. This is because diesel oil has more detergents and dispersants in it, meaning it can clean better and hold more soot in suspension, as compared to regular gasoline oil. Plus my climate and vehicle usage allow the 15W40 grade.
 
I was planning to, but due to certain non-vehicular events had to do an oil change asap and didn't have a lab sample bottle with me to collect the oil. I'm gonna say snake oil.
I'm just curious what it would show - the Ceratec shows moly/boron.
 
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So there's 2 different versions of this stuff, one being the 15k version in a can from places like AutoZone and then you have the 10k version in a plastic bottle from places like Walmart. I've used both in my 3.5L F150 (currently at 120,000) and with the 15K version, I went from 14.7 MPG average to 15.0 MPG (my mpg calculator never changes except in the summer/winter fuel changes from 14.8 MPG in the summer to 14.7 MPG in the winter.. Even when I have added different fuel additives, there's no change. I'd consider myself pretty consistent on driving style and routes.) With the next oil change, I went with the 10k version and it had gone to 14.8 MPG. I have recently changed my oil again using the 15k version, and it is now at 14.9 MPG so we'll see what happens. (All MPG changes are gradual and take a while to result in the new number).
I have also tried the 10k version with my wife's CRV which has had no change in MPG. Haven't tried the 15k version with it yet.
 
That stuff is such an chemical engineering marvel it has been licensed for use in liquid forms that actually soak into the metal, highly magnetized formulas that are so strong the particles bury themselves into the surfaces so strongly it takes a surface grinder or boring machine to remove them.
It took Dr Hogantightschmdt decades to develop so the particles don't stick together and end up as a clump on the bottom of the pan.
Lately it has found its way in pots and pans as a super hard coating that you can use metal utensils on. This is how it works..

At the first turn of the key the pellets are crushed by compression and release the particles, the first few particles cling to and rebuild the valve faces the few that escape down the exhaust prevent it from rusting for 30K miles.

The rest of the particles fly to the cylinder wall and rings by ultra strong neodidlium magnetic attraction and begin rebuilding the cylinder walls (do not use on over bored engines as it will rebuild the cylinders to the original size).
No you have fully rebuilt cylinder and rings, just like brand new. Now to add the magic.

Put the rest of the particles in the oil, they are suspended in a carrier oil.
They mix in with oil and run around the system plating everything in their path, the oil pump gets rebuilt, the crank gets plated and the magnetic attraction is so great the particles will embed into the soft lead bearing surfaces. In 10 minutes the engine is rebuilt and you saved thousands.

New products are synthetic sawdust for diffs and transfer case and self stiffening tar paper for floor repairs.

"Dr Hogantightschmdt" Hahahahahaha!!!
He's the cousin of Burgermeister Meisterburger.
 
The last paragraph says all one needs to know about after market additives and snake oil.
 
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LOL IIRC that garbage was in the JC Whitney Catalogue in the 1970's?
when my dad died back in 2009 he had a whole box full of old JC Whitney catalogs, looking back I wish I would have kept 1 or 2 but ended up tossing the whole box.He probably had 15 of them at least.
 
when my dad died back in 2009 he had a whole box full of old JC Whitney catalogs, looking back I wish I would have kept 1 or 2 but ended up tossing the whole box.He probably had 15 of them at least.
I have a few along with a lot of HOTROD magazines from the late 60's to the early 70's.
 
The last paragraph says all one needs to know about after market additives and snake oil.
Good thing Liquimoly Ceratec has TUV testing and certification and clearly because they make both the oil and additive they work together without issue.
 
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Good thing Liquimoly Ceratec has TUV testing and certification and clearly because they make both the oil and additive they work together without issue.
Ok, if you say so, I don't know if its a good thing or not, never heard of TUV testing or Ceratech. I have never used extra additives in oil or fuel and will take a hard pass on this one as well. But to each their own .
 
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