I put in a rebuilt oreilly ultima starter for my 96 sunfire today. I had it tested before I left the store and it passed. Well when I put in the starter, the starter doesn't crank at all. I hear a buzzing sound. I think it has something to do with the starter wires connection. I have five wires to hook to the solenoid. Originally the car had three, but I had an ignition recall done and there is an additional two wires. They are all red and black. anyone have a diagram or photo I can look at?
starter installation help
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Maybe the starter was not the actual problem when you replaced it.
Battery has to be in great shape, and both ends of all wires clean and tight. You can check the resistance or voltage drop of the wires to test them.
Battery has to be in great shape, and both ends of all wires clean and tight. You can check the resistance or voltage drop of the wires to test them.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Maybe the starter was not the actual problem when you replaced it.
Battery has to be in great shape, and both ends of all wires clean and tight. You can check the resistance or voltage drop of the wires to test them.
+1
Also, since a lot of people don't know:
A voltage drop test is where you hook up one lead of a multimeter to the positive battery cable and the other lead to the power wire where it connects to the load (in this case, where it connects to the starter). Any reading of more than a fraction of a volt means unwanted resistance in the circuit. This test comes in handy for corroded wires, etc.
A multimeter reads voltage as the difference between each (+ and -) lead. If you hook one lead to battery + (12V) and one to battery - (0V) it's going to read 12 (12-0=12). If you hook one lead up at battery + (12V) and another lead at a + wire somewhere down the circuit (theoretically 12V as well), it should read 0 (12-12=0). However, if you have some resistance in the circuit and it was dropping the power down to 10V at the load, you would get a meter reading of 2V. (12-10=2). In a vehicle, 2V is huge. It could be the difference between start and no start. Something to think about.
Maybe the starter was not the actual problem when you replaced it.
Battery has to be in great shape, and both ends of all wires clean and tight. You can check the resistance or voltage drop of the wires to test them.
+1
Also, since a lot of people don't know:
A voltage drop test is where you hook up one lead of a multimeter to the positive battery cable and the other lead to the power wire where it connects to the load (in this case, where it connects to the starter). Any reading of more than a fraction of a volt means unwanted resistance in the circuit. This test comes in handy for corroded wires, etc.
A multimeter reads voltage as the difference between each (+ and -) lead. If you hook one lead to battery + (12V) and one to battery - (0V) it's going to read 12 (12-0=12). If you hook one lead up at battery + (12V) and another lead at a + wire somewhere down the circuit (theoretically 12V as well), it should read 0 (12-12=0). However, if you have some resistance in the circuit and it was dropping the power down to 10V at the load, you would get a meter reading of 2V. (12-10=2). In a vehicle, 2V is huge. It could be the difference between start and no start. Something to think about.
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One thing I learned about letting these stores check your starter- Always watch them do it. what you need to watch is the amperage meter on the machine for current draw. I took a starter to Advance Auto one time to have it checked. The guy took it to the back of the store and I heard the starter spinning on the machine. He came back and said the starter was fine. I then went home and replaced a fusible link and an ignition switch and the car still would't start. I then took the starter to an electrical rebuilder's shop and had it tested again- BAD STARTER! Tese testing machines put out a lot more amperage than the typical car battery. Just because they spin the starter doesn't mean it's a good one.
my first starter, the starter was spinning but wasn't turning the crankshaft. I tried the hammer trick, didn't work. all electrical items, headlights, dome lights, radio, windshield wipers turned on with full power. battery was pretty much fully charged after using a battery charger to make sure. big mistake I made was disconnecting all these wires without labeling them. I took photos of the solenoid/starter. anyone give me a tip of what goes where? I think I know where the three big wires go.
this is what I have it set to now
Here's all five red and black wires.
Ignore the purple wire, it doesn't connect to anywhere on the starter. it's the oxygen sensor cable.
this is what I have it set to now
Here's all five red and black wires.
Ignore the purple wire, it doesn't connect to anywhere on the starter. it's the oxygen sensor cable.
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Well, it would appear simple enough that all the BIG EYES go on the BIG LUG ..and the smaller eyes on the smaller lug(s)
REbuilt starter from chain auto parts stores often have a good warranty, and are cheap.
But they often fail. Now or later.
Bosch makes good rebuilt starters and alternators. Bring $.
But they often fail. Now or later.
Bosch makes good rebuilt starters and alternators. Bring $.
I figured out the wiring. After a jumpstart from the vibe, the sunfire is up and running. thanks guys for the tips. the chains must have made a shortcut somewhere. the starter I put on, the starter bracket wouldn't bolt to the engine block either.
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