Starter Help

[tnt31]

1994 Chevy C1500 2wd 350 277K miles. I have had the truck since about 175K and the starter in it is the one it had when I got the truck.

Today when I started it up the starter kept turning over the motor. Even when I turned the ignition switch the starter was still turning the motor even though it quit running. I had to disconnect the ground wire on the battery to get it to stop. Thought it was a fluke so connected the ground wire and attempted to start it and the same thing.

I took off the starter and took it to Advance and Autozone. Both tested it and both said it was good. This lead me to think it was the ignition switch (I was hoping not as do not look forward to taking on the steering column). However I hooked my meter to the wire for the 12v to the solenoid from the ignition switch and when the key is switched I get 12v (actually 12.51) and when you let off the switch the voltage goes away.

Could this still be the starter (or solenoid) and it is just not something that the machines test for? The cheap rebuilt starter for this truck is just $30 bucks so not to expensive just to try but....

I also thought about just adding a remote switch in the cab to the solenoid instead of using the wire from the ignition switch or possibly both (remote switch and rebuilt starter) to remedy both of the issues I think could cause these symptoms.

Any help appreciated.

Thanks

 

[The_Jeff]

yeah it could be a weak return spring in the solenoid and/or the contacts are welding themselves shut with the current of the starter actually turning the engine over. Without all that current the contacts aren't welding themselves.

Maybe.

What's $30, half a tank of gas? Do it before it chews up your flywheel.

 

[LargeCarManX2]

It's the starter!

 

[jsnyder49090]

its the solenoid replace it or the starter

 

[yonyon]

You might need to shim it out a little. If there's not enough clearance between the starter drive and the ring, you can get a jam up. It'll take maybe 10 minutes to give it a try. Shims are cheap-as-free. Failing that, time for a fresh starter.

 

[JimPghPA]

Put a new solonoid on it including a new return spring. That is the problem.

And while you are at it put a new bendix on it, clean the groves between sections on the commutator and put new brushes on it. Clean the main shaft and the holes it goes into and put a little grease on the main shaft and in the two holes the shaft goes into. Use very little grease, do not over do it.

Remanufacturer starters are done by the lowest cost very unskilled labors in third world countries and in general are not worth the time it takes to go to the parts store to get it, let alone the time to put it in, find out it is not reliable, pull it out, go back to the part store and get another and put that in.

You are way ahead of the game if you rebuild it yourself.

 

[Donald]

If there is a local rebuild shop I would take it there.

 

[mechtech2]

Solenoid - may require getting the whole starter.
Maybe a stuck relay, though.

This is not a shim problem - the symptoms don't fit at all.

 

[expat]

Solenoid!
Take the opportunity to rebuild the starter if you have a work bench.
If not, perhaps there is a local, reputable, rebuild shop?
or
Get a new starter.
Or
Last resort: Get a cheap, Chinese/East Indian, re-built starter.

 

[J281v8]

I'd stick with what Donald and expat said. Try a rebuild or a good shop. But you never know. The price of a new one that works the first time might save you some headaches. Just got burnt on a reman alternator.

 

[rk1407]

I agree about the poor quality of the remanufactured starters. I just looked on RockAuto.com and you can buy a NEW starter (ACDelco) for about $100.

If time is an issue this probably won't work but just wanted to give you another idea.

 

[tnt31]

Locally I can get a new Remy for $80 or the next level up reman is $45 (I have had good luck with three reman alternators from them) so will probably do one of those instead of the cheapest of the remans.

Any thoughts on setting up a remote starter or is it 99.9% likely the ignition switch is not the issue? I am assuming (can be dangerous) I can run a switch such as the below from the battery hot on the starter thru the switch to the the 12v connection on the solenoid fir the ignition switch. I would guess I will still have to turn the ignition switch as if I am starting and hit the remote button at the same time to get it to crank.
http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-13868-85935.aspx

 

[JimPghPA]

Just take the small wire off of the starter and then with that wire off see if the starter still want to crank when you put the connection to the battery back on. If it still want to crank without the small wire connected to the starter it is not the ignition switch. If it does not want to crank, you could put a new wire on the small wire connection of the starter and touch the other end to the positive of the battery for a few seconds and see if it again stays on when you remove that small wire from the positive of the battery.

 

[JimPghPA]

BTW, be sure that the vehicle is a manual transmission in first gear, the front is up on jack stands, and the back wheels are on the ground with the parking brake off, and you are standing in front of the vehicle, when you mess with that starter to see if it will crank. NOT.