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- Dec 30, 2022
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- 39
Wow, never knew that.
I've been on here just about as long as you have and I've never seen anyone state that, much less "many" poeple.There are many people here who state that wear additives are not needed if the oil is thick enough, only when the oil is too thin and then boundary issues come into play. MOFT is the only thing that counts. The author says that ring wear is nil at steady states. Yet it is mostly boundary lubrication. Motor oil is a complex thing.
There is always wear. No film thickness vs. wear graph ever shows zero wear.There you go...In this very thread. That was you right? The MOFT is Very High when the engine is cold, much higher than when the engine oil is 220 or 240F. Yet there is much higher wear when the engine/oil is cold. There should be no wear as the MOFT is so high, but the wear is high anyway.
There should be no wear, even without any additives according to the “high MOFT” crowd. I believe they imply that if you have a proper MOFT there should be little to no wear. People state that cold engine wear is a result of parts not fitting correctly until the engine is hot. But MOFT is MOFT so when it is plenty high how can there be wear.
There is more to it than this simple explanation that will supposedly prevent engine wear. It is much more complicated. You will not prevent start up wear by putting a 60 grade oil in your engine.
The link to the original paper is on the original post #1. The conclusions written on my original post are from the paper, not from me. It would be of benefit for all to read, I believe. Though we may all still interpret their conclusions differently.
Ali
Cavitation is a good topic and also why I think thinner oils are better under high stress. I believe that better, easier flow minimizes cavitation.
Check your fly, Ali. Your cognitive dissonance is hanging out.And yet in the paper I site they cooled the oil down from a hot engine, thickening the oil, and the wear rate went up.
Ali
They cooled the entire engine back to room temperature and the wear rates returned to the initial cold start rates. This demonstrated that the wear rate correlated to temperature. This study showed that cold wear rates were not related to viscosity.When a hot, loaded running engine, is artificially cooled by gradually lowering the coolant and engine oil temperature from the steady state operating temperature to room temperature the wear rates gradually go up at the same rate. They end up being 10x higher at room temperature.
This bit of information comes not from data from the Ford paper you are taking about. It was from a study referenced by the authors. That study used non fully formulated oils. A ZDDP only tribofilm was formed, detergents were added to the oil which removed the film and rebuilt a new tribofilm. It has no relevance to changing fully formulated motor oils.Each time you change the oil, the fresh oil washes away the microscopic tribofilm that was built up by the previous oil's antiwear additives, and that tribofilm has to build up again.
The scope of the study was to see how long a motor oil could form an effective anti-wear film. Uncontrolled variables preclude using the data from this study from drawing conclusions about wear from fresh oil. One of the major variables that was not controlled in this experiment was the fact that the fresh oil was always run on new parts. The used oil was always run on broken in parts. There is no way to determine how much break-in wear contributed to the wear seen using new oil.Basically in the study they mentioned that indeed wear is higher right after an oil change with new oil, and then gradually goes down and stabilizes, iirc they said on average it takes around 800 miles ( or was it km?? ) until that tribofilm is back to what it was before the oil change.
As I understand it MOFT comes into play at the bearings but not at the valvetrain. So the question is what is the source of the minuscule but measurable increase in wear on a "cold" engine?I've been on here just about as long as you have and I've never seen anyone state that, much less "many" poeple.
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“One would not expect there to be a significant difference in wear when cold due to grade. All grades are very thick even at room temperature and have a high MOFT to protect the components.”
Post #2 by kschachn, From Upper Midwest, Joined Dec 26, 2005
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There you go...In this very thread. That was you right? The MOFT is Very High when the engine is cold, much higher than when the engine oil is 220 or 240F. Yet there is much higher wear when the engine/oil is cold. There should be no wear as the MOFT is so high, but the wear is high anyway.
There should be no wear, even without any additives according to the “high MOFT” crowd. I believe they imply that if you have a proper MOFT there should be little to no wear. People state that cold engine wear is a result of parts not fitting correctly until the engine is hot. But MOFT is MOFT so when it is plenty high how can there be wear.
There is more to it than this simple explanation that will supposedly prevent engine wear. It is much more complicated. You will not prevent start up wear by putting a 60 grade oil in your engine.
ali
As I understand it MOFT comes into play at the bearings but not at the valvetrain. So the question is what is the source of the minuscule but measurable increase in wear on a "cold" engine?
Well I made a 9 year real world study (still going on).The scope of the study was to see how long a motor oil could form an effective anti-wear film.
You’ve got some stones!! How often do you have to add oil, what type and how much?? ThanksWell I made a 9 year real world study (still going on).
I haven't changed the oil and filter on my 2002 Explorer (daily driver) for over 100000 miles now.
And yes, I have to top it off from time to time, but not much.
Still running just fine - no engine issues whatsoever.
To be fair - I have to say it doesn't see much more than 2800 rpm most of the time.
Do I get wear? Of course.
More than with regular oil changes? I'm not sure.
I bought the car with about 100000 miles on it - now it has 236000ish - still the original V6.
No high oil consumption, normal mileage, no unusual noises or noticeable power loss so far.
And yes - that goes against everything I thought I knew about oil and engines.
Now reading Ali's first post with that study - especially that:
"Lubricants that were aged with 16,000 normally driven miles were compared to fresh lubricants and had similar rates of wear."
made me think.
Frank
Between half a quart to a quart every 6 months - and usually it's the cheapest no-name 10W-40 dino-oil I can find in my local supermarket.You’ve got some stones!! How often do you have to add oil, what type and how much?? Thanks
For some reason there are cars that limit RPM until the engine oil gets up to temperature. There must be a reason for this.
Your two quoted comments are related, the bolded part in the 2nd one is one reason RPM is limited until the oil gets above a target temperature. Plus they want the engine clearances to setttle down from warm-up before allowing redline use.I like high RPM and when engines are cool they go into bypass too soon. I have more on that one -but for another day...
I don't recall anyone making that claim (the bold part). It's been mentioned many times that MOFT (the "film thickness"), a function of viscosity and relative speed of the moving parts, is the main thing that keeps moving parts sepatate, and that the AF/AW package (the "film strength") is the second line of wear mitigation that takes over when the MOFT fails and parts start rubbing on each other. Machinery Lubrication website article explaining this has been linked many times in these kind of threads. There is always some rubbing going on between parts in boundry and mixed lubrication, so the oil film strength (the AF/AW additives) is obviously always important too.There are many people here who state that wear additives are not needed if the oil is thick enough, only when the oil is too thin and then boundary issues come into play. MOFT is the only thing that counts. The author says that ring wear is nil at steady states. Yet it is mostly boundary lubrication. Motor oil is a complex thing.
Ali
Theory is that the new oil strips off most of the AF/AW tribofilm (the "film strength") of the previous oil run off of the engine surfaces. If the tribofilm is weakened, then incteased wear occurs until the tribofilm is built back up from the new oil.Wow, fresh oil hurts an engine.
Never heard that one before
Pretty rare that journal bearings exhibit enough cavitation to damage the bearings - ie, mechanically pitting of the bearing surfaces. I've never seen that happen. Has anyone here seen cavitated journal bearings on any engines they have tore down?Adhesive, abrasive, surface fatigue, corrosive. Gotta say it all… MOFT does not cover it all. Surface fatigue includes cavitation behind the MOFT point of a bearing.
The materials and surface hardening factor is also part of the wear equation in a valve train. Use bad materials and/or don't harden them correctly and wear will be a problem.The combination of cold temperature and higher viscosity from that cold temperature means anti-wear additive response / reactivity is significantly reduced. The valvetrain relies on anti-wear additives, not MOFT, to limit wear.