Spot the good/bad features of these filters – Cut Open Pictures

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Here are four filters used for the current version Camry. Some filter manufacturers (even some “performance” brands) specify one tiny filter part # for both the Corolla and Camry. I went out in search of mfrs that had a different (larger) size spec’d for the Camry. They had to be low/moderate cost filters easily available in my area. These are the ones that I found.

Purolator L14477
Advance Auto Parts Totalgrip AA4386
NAPA Gold 1396 (Equivalent to Wix 51396)
Toyota 90915-YZZA1

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Below are pictures, descriptions, measurements. I deliberately didn’t put any opinions in this initial post. I’m anxious to hear what everybody has to say. I may include my opinions along with yours- I have a few choice negative things to say about each. Unfortunately, of course, the big questions about filtering efficiency and flow resistance are unknown from this experiment.

General Comments

Purolator
The Purolator is a straightforward filter design with metal end caps and a flat spring bypass valve at the closed end of the filter. Pleats were evenly spaced except for a couple of wide ones where the element was crimped together with a metal strip. A little bit of epoxy was smeared around on one of the end caps. The box quotes “multi-fiber” media and 96% multi-pass efficiency.

AAP
It is well known that these filters are made by Purolator. Aside from the color and sandpaper-like coating of the can all components are identical to the Purolator. The only difference inside was the filter media itself. The color of the media was more yellowish than the Purolator and it was thinner and felt more compressed. The AAP Totalgrip had two more pleats than the Purolator. The pleats were evenly spaced except for a couple of wide ones where the element was crimped together with a metal strip. The box quotes 94% multi-pass efficiency.

NAPA

The NAPA filter has the bypass at the base of the filter. A coil spring is used between the can and the filter element to force the element tight against the base. The force that the coil spring exerted was significantly higher than with the stamped springs in the other filters. Because of the space taken by the bypass valve and the coil spring, the filter element is shorter than the other filters. Metal end caps are used. The NAPA pleats were fairly evenly spaced, but there were five pleats that were overly wide. The ends of the element were crimped with a metal strip against the center tube.

Toyota
The Toyota filter uses a unique pleat design. The media is folded over into six groups with pleating going all the way to the edge of the can. The element is really packed tightly into the can; it took a good tug to pull the element out. End caps are cardboard but very sturdily attached to filter media. The end caps have small notches to allow oil to enter the pleat groups.

(Toyota Pleat Design shown here:)
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MEDIA Characteristics
Element Dimensions:
Purolator: 2.5” high x 2” diameter
AAP: Identical to Purolator
NAPA: 2” high x 2.25” diameter
Toyota: 2.5” high x 2-7/16” diameter

Pleats:
Purolator: 50 pleats; 7/16” pleat depth
AAP: 52 pleats; 7/16” pleat depth
NAPA: 50 pleats; 6/16” pleat depth
Toyota: 6 blocks of 10 pleats; approx 6/16” avg. pleat depth

Media area measured with removed from filter and stretched out (media cut as close to epoxy at end caps as possible, so width measurements slightly shorter than element height measured above)

Purolator: 104.6 sq. in. (46-1/2”x2-1/4”)
AAP: 108.6 sq. in. (48-1/4”x2-1/4”)
NAPA: 75.3 sq. in. (43”x1-3/4”)
Toyota: 135.4 sq. in. (57”x2-3/8”)

Media Thickness (very difficult to measure accurately, so just to describe)

Purolator: About 1/32”, slightly fuzzier than others
AAP: About 25% thinner than Purolator and feels somewhat more compressed
NAPA: About same thickness as Purolator,
Toyota: About 50% thicker than Purolator, with a slightly fuzzier feel than any of the others except the Purolator

Anti Drainback Valve Characteristics

Purolator and AAP are identical, only the NAPA is silicone. I put all of the ADBs in the freezer overnight at about 5 degrees F and found that the NAPA ADB did maintain its flexibility very well. The others did have a noticeable stiffness. They kind of lost some of their springiness and were slightly slower to return to their original shape than at room temperature.

The NAPA ADB has some ridges embossed on its upper surface, these are to provide a gap so that oil can flow through the bypass valve if necessary.

(Purolator/AAP ADB:)
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(NAPA ADB:)
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(Toyota ADB:)

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Bypass

Purolator: The bypass uses a metal disk attached by a flat spring to the metal end cap at the closed end of the filter. Excess pressure will force the metal disk downward and allow oil to flow into the center tube. Purolator specifies the bypass pressure to be 14-18 PSI on this filter. Pushing down on the disk required a great deal more force than on the other designs and the opening created by doing so was very narrow.

AAP: Identical design to Purolator, I have no factory specs on the bypass pressure. Force required to push down on the valve by hand seemed identical to Purolator.

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NAPA: The bypass valve is a separate module at the base of the filter. A ring of holes facing downward toward the inlet holes is backed by a rubber gasket in front of a metal disk. The disk is held down by a coil spring. If the pressure limit is exceeded, the disk is forced up, allowing oil to flow through directly to the outlet hole. With this design oil does not have to wash over the dirty side of the media to exit the filter like for the other designs where the bypass is on the closed end of the filter. Bypass pressure is specified as 8-11 PSI and the bypass was considerably easier to open by hand than with the Purolator/AAP. The opening area is also much larger than for the Purolator/AAP.

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Toyota: Toyota uses exactly the same style of bypass as the Purolator/AAP. Due to the cardboard end-caps, a metal cap piece in the filter contains the bypass valve. Toyota specifies the bypass pressure as 14.3 PSI. Pushing in the bypass by hand required much less force than the Purolator/AAP, but it was still difficult to get the disk pushed down far enough for other than a very narrow opening.

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[ September 08, 2005, 08:35 PM: Message edited by: kanling ]
 
Center Tubes

Purolator: Uses a metal center tube with 169 holes, each about 3/32” dia. The center tube does not extend all the way to the top of the filter element. ½” of filter element at the top of the filter is exposed without additional support beyond the center tube.
AAP: Identical to Purolator

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NAPA: Spiral construction metal center tube, much more rigid than Purolator/AAP or Toyota. 52 holes, each about 5/32” diameter.

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Toyota: Metal center tube with 153 holes, each approx 3/32” diameter.

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Flow Area Characteristics – Attempts to show the various flow restriction points as the oil flows through the filter (aside from the media itself)

Percentages are based on the outlet area (Outlet stud size is ¾” dia or 0.44 sq. in. area), “Edge gap” is the space between the can edge and the element end caps that the oil must flow through to get to the filter media)

Purolator
Inlet hole area: 0.22 sq in (50%) (8 holes, 3/16” dia)
Edge gap area: 0.48 sq in (109%) (approx 3/32” gap)
Center tube hole area: 3.03 sq in (689%) (includes hole area and exposed area beyond center tube)

AAP: Identical to Purolator

NAPA:
Inlet hole area: 0.39 sq in (89%) (8 holes, 0.25” dia) (area may actually be a little more because holes are very slightly oval)
Edge gap area: 0.48 sq in (109%) (approx 3/32” gap)
Center tube hole area: 1.0 sq in (227%)

Toyota:
Inlet hole area: 0.22 sq in (50%) (8 holes, 3/16” dia)
Edge gap area: very small, filter element packed tightly into can – probably equivalent to end cap notch area (assume about 15%)
End cap notches: 0.07 sq in (16%) (6 notches, 3/8” long by 1/36” avg width)
Center tube hole area: 1.1 sq in (241%)

Outer Can Characteristics

All of the cans were between 0.030 and 0.040 inches in thickness.

Base Gaskets:
Purolator: Rectangular profile held by six crimps
AAP: Identical to Purolator

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NAPA: Rectangular profile held by eight crimps, a bit thicker than Purolator

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Toyota: Rounded gasket held by 12 tabs. Seems like a stretchier and softer rubber than on the other filters. There is a clear grease between the gasket and the filter base.

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Finally, two leftover pictures:

Springs in Purolator/AAP:
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Spring in Toyota:

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Let the comments begin!
 
The Toyota filter is by far the best filter on the list so to say . Nothing else compares, the area of element is incredable, the build quality is the best ,with napa or wix good quality but not so special. purolater filters are excellent .The 10.00 Frams work good and M1 filters are also on the top of the list .
 
Good job. Wish i knew how to post pictures like that..

But...err...you've got the tension springs upside down in the cans and the Toyota one in the pic.

The "raised" middle part goes against the element. The outside "edges" of the tension spring go in first and rest against the bottom of the can Middle bit up.

The middle bit helps orient the filter element when assembled.

But otherwise....
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BTW..the holes in the middle of the tension springs are not because of skimping on metal and making them cheaper..
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...it is to allow the relief valve to operate. A solid tension spring would prevent this for the three filters pictured with relief valves in the bottom of the element.

Those with the relief valve at the "engine end" of the filter can use a solid tension spring or coiled spring like the NAPA one.
 
The only filter I'd be wary of on your list is the Advance Auto filter. From your description, it might have cheaper, lower cost filter media.

The Denso/Toyota filter would be my first choice, the Purolator or WIX second, and the AA OK, but last on your list.


Ken
 
Wow. Very nice job all around. Excellent descriptions & photography. Thanks for all the time you put in on this.
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I think the Purolator Premium Plus looks like a good value. Considering that I have 3+ years-worth of filters, that's good to know. (stop the madness Pep Boys.. no more sales + rebates.)
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This is truly excellent. You obviously spent a lot of time thinking through what you wanted to do, and your descriptions are clear and meaningful. You've provided extremely useful information!

Superb job!
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I have to agree - the Toyota filter is really impressive.
 
Looking at the way that the Toyota filter is constructed, you might have to effectively remove about 30 sq in of media from it's total since the circunference is pressed against the can. Near the top and bottom where it attaches to the endcaps, you'll get som flow but I'm sure it very quicly conforms to the can between these caps. It may also lose a bit of effective area against the center tube since it lays flat against the tube. It puts the available media in line with the others in this test. Much of the media also lays flat against the holes in the center tube. Without a test my only concern would be flow due to how tightly it's packed and placed without an actual advantage in media size but I also suspect the thicker media itself is very good at cleaning without excessive restriction.
 
I agree Goodvibes. The Toyota has a lot of thick media, but most of the center tube holes are covered by media pressed flat up against it. Only the holes lining up with the "channels" in the media are wide open. In regular designs, there is usually a little bit of room for flow around each hole. So, I question whether a lot of the Toyota media sees much flow at all. Its useful area might be a lot less.

My other issue with the Toyota filter is how tightly the element is packed into the can. It took a good tug to pull it out. Look at the tiny notches the oil has to flow through from the inlet to get to the element- seems like a very significant restriction. There is no significant gap between the can and the element like in the other filters for oil flow.

I guess this restriction is acceptable, though, in a Toyota engine since the filter is made by Toyota. It must do the job. Still, extra restriction is not a good thing... especially in cold weather... why wouldn't they leave a little space?
 
Then there's the NAPA Gold. I love the bypass design compared to the others. It has the capability for a wide opening, it seals against a gasket, and it bypasses prior to the filter element so that the oil doesn't wash over top of the dirty media. From my freezer test, I'm a little more convinced that silicone ADBs are useful in winter in some applications, too.

You just have to give up 25% or more filtering area to get those features. Ouch!
 
And as long as I'm commenting, the Purolator/AAP filters seem fine enough. But what's with the extra tight bypass valve? Why do these require so much extra pressure than the others?

I have only anecdotal evidence, but I believe that the bypass must open on a cold winter morning startup. I'm wondering if the bypass on the Purolator/AAP design is going to open far enough on a cold day to prevent a dry start.
 
Kanling..

Don't be fooled by the Toyota design..

The flow is though the media..even the flat outer bit. Even with "pleated" media, the oil goes through it, not past it.( Well relief valve aside).

It makes no difference if the media is a flat sheet wrapped around the center tube. ( There is a European design, and Wix Europe uses it if memory serves, where the media is wrapped. It is also corrugated.)

The media itself is not restrictive with any of the designs you've pictured.

I would guess the notches in your pictures of the Toyota design are there because of the pleating process. And the endcap mimicks the element for orientation purposes.
 
Excellent analysis.

I did my own filter autopsies awhile back and the one things that bugs me about Wix is their lack of filtration media. However I don't know if that's really an issue to be concerned about or not without knowing detailed info on a effectiveness of the media they use compared to the others.

I'm leaning towards Pure One's as my favorite filter. They seem to have it all, (ie silicone ADB, lots of media, well constructed, easy to find, and inexpensive).
 
Gotta love the NAPA ADBV!

I'd love to see life flow studies, Especially on the Toyota filter. But moochers can't be choosers - so thanks for the info and excellent post!
 
I'm impressed with the AA filter. Looks like you can get a solid filter for 5k oci for 2.48 everyday price. Anyone feel the same?
 
I am 100% for the NAPA for the threaded end bypass, the larger bypass opening, the larger inlet. Would be nice if the NAPA had more filter area, but maybe a longer one could be substituted. I really don't like the Toyota pleating arrangement, nor the cardboard endcaps.

Great photos!


My new signature:
quote:

NEVER use 5W-30 or 5W-20 oil because it is closer to a grinding compound than a lubricant. --Louis LaPointe

 
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