Spot the good/bad features of these filters – Cut Open Pictures

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Kanling..I personally have done two training seminars in Thailand. And ones in Malaysia, and China, and Philippines and Viet Nam..

Those who can afford Mercedes, pay what the dealer charges them.

Those that do their own maintenance is a whole different story. Someday have a look at Indonesian filters or filters from India and compare the quality. There are also local manufacturers who "remanufacture" elements. They save some components and rebuild the filter.

There's a whole different world out there than worrying about Purolator, Wix, Champ, etc..

btw..did you see the country of origin on the toyota filter in Thailand?
 
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Originally posted by kanling:
Purolator...The center tube does not extend all the way to the top of the filter element. ½” of filter element at the top of the filter is exposed without additional support beyond the center tube.

Does this mean that the filter element itself is providing the support for the top end cap? I thought both end caps needed to be attached to the metal center tube to provide support against the spring tension. If the element became less rigid during the OCI, could the seal seperating filtered/unfiltered oil become less reliable?
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quote:

Does this mean that the filter element itself is providing the support for the top end cap? I thought both end caps needed to be attached to the metal center tube to provide support against the spring tension. If the element became less rigid during the OCI, could the seal seperating filtered/unfiltered oil become less reliable?

Pretty much, yeah. After I cut out the media I now have two separate pieces, a bottom end cap with a center tube attached and a top end cap.

quote:

Does this mean that the filter element itself is providing the support for the top end cap?

I would say that the top end cap is providing support for the top end of the filter element, but the same thing.
 
I can tell you from experience, that the NAPA filter I use is better for flow, especially at start up. I have a collegue with a Matrix and he uses the OEM filter. His car rattles horrible!! (makes me cringe every time I hear it) for about 2-3 seconds after start up. Mine did some similar noises when I had the original filter on there after purchase of the car. I switched to the longer NAPA 1396 filter for the 2ZZ-GE, and the start up noise is virtually non existant. NAPA for me. Especially in the winter where flow is most important during my -35F start ups.
 
Anyone care to compare these filters with a Mobil One? I have a Toyota Highlander 4 cylinder and am debating whether to use the OEM Toyota or the M1. Thoughts are appreciated! Thanks.
 
Jason,
As kanling and I have discussed - M1-103 is Corolla sized, similar to a Purolator 14476, which is 3/4 of inch shorter than the 14477, spec'ed out for the Camry (Or 2AZ-FE). It makes me feel nervous to run a filter sized for a 1.8L motor in a 2.4L. It could be okay be I decided against it. BTW there is a new Pure One. PL14477. I am going to install one in two weeks with 4 qts of Mobil 1.
 
Hey kanling,
On the NAPA/Wix, did the by-pass module seem well seated against the filter end cap? When under the compression of the coil spring, do you think oil would leaking from the gap between the two?
 
quote:

Originally posted by Jonny Z:
On the NAPA/Wix, did the by-pass module seem well seated against the filter end cap? When under the compression of the coil spring, do you think oil would leaking from the gap between the two?

It is only metal to metal contact where the bypass module fits into the center tube. So that is a good question. There could be some leakage. I guess it would have been better for them to put a rubber gasket at the edge. Maybe that is why they choose to use the coil spring, which exerts much greater downward force than the other filter springs.

But then, the other disk style bypass on the other filters is also metal to metal contact that may leak a little, as well. Of course the available area for leakage is also smaller on the tiny disk.

Great, something else to think about.
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Having dissected a dozen or so filters myself, I personally prefer the Champ Labs design (M1, STP, Bosch Premium, VC, KN, and maybe a couple others). I've owned both I-4 and V-6 Camrys (02 and 03 respectively, the I-4 totalled after a wreck). It has been 18 months since the V-6 went away, so my memory is fading, but IIRC, there are two M1 filter sizes for each engine. Obviously, real docomented filter failures are rare, even from Fram, but I still prefer the ultra sturdy CL filters. Also, I've had great particle counts in my UOA, even using the supposedly too-porous K&N.
 
My question that I don't seem to see anyone ask is: "where's the string?" I thought all Purolator/Purolator based filters had a string in the middle of the element. Neither the AA or P+ in this post have the "telltale string".
 
Here we go. Several views of the insides of the Champion Labs design. Common features amongst the brands: The pleats are deeply and securely cemented into the end caps. The bypass valves contain no fragile plastic parts (like Fram) and operate progressively, unlike the "clickers" (you can easily feel the difference using finger pressure). ADBV materials vary with brand. Centertubes always run full length of element (unlike some Puros) and CT is always rigidly attached to end caps.

How it's done (postmortem version):
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Mobil-1 (Champ Labs) apart:
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The Bosch Prem (also CL) apart. Only discernable differences between it and M1 are filter medium (slight color diff noticeable to eye) and ADBV:
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Champ Lab internals laid out:
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And the baby of the CL family
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This is the element from a "Valuecraft" thimble filter (the standard size for the VQ35). VC is the "bargain" brand at Autozone.
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By the way, the room in the first pic is my military quarters. Even though I got no oil on the carpet, if I had done that at home, I would not be alive to tell about it -- wife takes dim view of engaging in such activity on her carpets. . . Go figure.
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