Spark Plugs Replacement question?

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I am curious, about a few things since I have seen few threads on the forum about spark plugs lasting forever.

1- Can platinum or iridium plugs easily last 200k miles or life of the engine, if it's more than 200k? Is there a possibility that ceramic can break while removing them?

2- Is it a good practice, to occasionally remove these plugs and put anti-seize on them so they don't seize up?

3- In all of these modern ECU cars, would a CEL light come if there's a problem with the spark plug?

4- Is same principle applicable to 4 stroke motorcycles too?

Thanks for the help
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1. 100k miles generally is what manufacture's recommend.Personally, I wouldn't run them 100k anyways and ceramic can break on new plugs if someone is reckless.
2. If you put anti seize on them, you shouldn't need to periodically remove them.
3. Yes, a misfire code can be set, either random or for the specific cylinder.
4. I dunno, I doubt it.
 
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I don't think they last forever.

All electrodes wear. The higher the melting point, the slower the wear. So, iridium, for example, wears more slowly than platinum. But the engine conditions affect wear, too. In a highly boosted engine, even iridium wears out long before the service life of the engine.

They last a long time, but not forever. So, I wouldn't go past 100,000 miles, or fewer if that's what the manufacture recommends. And if you're taking the old ones out, out new ones in. Labor is the same, and plugs aren't that expensive, unless you're replacing all 24 iridium plugs on a twin-turbo V-12 engine.

If you wait for a CEL, you've had degraded performance for a while. In some engines, you can kill the coils if it the gap is too large. The extra voltage required fries the coils wiring or circuit boards.

And plugs are a lot cheaper than coils.

People who wait too long to change the 24 iridium plugs in the V-12 I mentioned (a Mercedes M275) because it costs over $1,000 to have someone do it, often end up needing new coils. Those two coils cost $1,400 each.

Don't run plugs past their service life. You're not saving anything.
 
1- I don't have first hand experience with taking spark plugs to this sort of mileage, but I would like to think that it depends on how quickly the mileage accumulates. For an average person doing about 15k miles a year, I would stick with OEM change intervals.

2- If you decide to pull the plugs and put some antiseize on the threads, there should be no need to do it periodically after that, otherwise what's the point of using antiseize in the first place.

3- Most cars can detect a misfire and that's a good indicator to take a look at the plugs. But to actually determine if the plug is bad, it has to be pulled off and inspected.

4- Personally I think motorcycles cannot be directly compared because they produce much more HP/L than automotive engines and they rev much higher.
 
My original Motorcraft Plugs lasted for 100,00 miles.

The replacement Motorcraft 'Platinum' Plugs went bad after 38,000 miles.
CEL gave 2 Codes
1) Cylinder 4 Misfire
2) Random Cylinder Misfire

I replaced with Autolite 'Iridium'
I'll probably pull them out at 50,000 miles to check gap & condition.
 
Originally Posted By: Astro14
I don't think they last forever.

All electrodes wear. The higher the melting point, the slower the wear. So, iridium, for example, wears more slowly than platinum. But the engine conditions affect wear, too. In a highly boosted engine, even iridium wears out long before the service life of the engine.

They last a long time, but not forever. So, I wouldn't go past 100,000 miles, or fewer if that's what the manufacture recommends. And if you're taking the old ones out, out new ones in. Labor is the same, and plugs aren't that expensive, unless you're replacing all 24 iridium plugs on a twin-turbo V-12 engine.

If you wait for a CEL, you've had degraded performance for a while. In some engines, you can kill the coils if it the gap is too large. The extra voltage required fries the coils wiring or circuit boards.

And plugs are a lot cheaper than coils.

People who wait too long to change the 24 iridium plugs in the V-12 I mentioned (a Mercedes M275) because it costs over $1,000 to have someone do it, often end up needing new coils. Those two coils cost $1,400 each.

Don't run plugs past their service life. You're not saving anything.


That's the kind of advice, I was after. Majority of my vehicles are regular(commuter) non-turbo cars and non-modified too.
 
Originally Posted By: rooflessVW
Stick with OEM plugs.

Stick with OEM recommended intervals.


Thanks, I'll scratch and forget whatever I have read and saw on the forum.

Will stick to this good ole approach!
 
I thought misfires were hard on the catalytic convertor?

these days, with 100k+ miles for change intervals there isn't much of a reason to skip. Not unless if the rest of the car is beat and "not worth fixing".
 
You can glaze the insulator with bad mixture or additives then youll get high misfire count regardless of how sharp the electrodes are or how close to spec the gap is. Unfortunately With MPFI its hard to separate cylinder (power) balance issues relating to fueling or spark or gunked valve heads.

If you take a plug out of a 4V Aluminum head, you should ALWAYS use a new plug gasket to prevent distortion of valve seats due to overtorquing. Properly designed Plugs have zinc or ?? coating in the shell metallurgy to prevent seizing. IDK if Motorcrapft/ Autolite learned anything the past decade about anti-seize plating.
 
I had a 2002 Intrepid that had the original plugs in it when I sold it at 136,000 miles. I did take them out and inspect them at 100,000 miles. Cleaned and gaped them. A little anti-seize. Could not find a reason to replace.
 
My grandparents have a 2010 LaCrosse with the 3.6 HF V6. It has 180K on it and has the original plugs. The dealer told them to run it until you have a check engine light. Supposedly with that engine you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the plugs.
 
As others have mentioned, it's the coils and wires if so equipped) which see additional stress when the gap increases.
 
On anti-seize - my rule of thumb is black threads on plug - use anti-seize. Chrome/silver threads - don't use. I agree with the OEM recommendation above - or NGK as 2nd option.
 
Thanks everyone. For some reason, maybe I am an idiot but I always prefer to use anti-seize. Though majority of my cars use chrome/silver head plugs.

Can Iridium and platinum plugs be gapped? I thought it's only true for Copper ones, isn't?

Definitely got the idea about not keeping them in a motorcycle for too long!
 
Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Thanks everyone. For some reason, maybe I am an idiot but I always prefer to use anti-seize. Though majority of my cars use chrome/silver head plugs.

Can Iridium and platinum plugs be gapped? I thought it's only true for Copper ones, isn't?

Definitely got the idea about not keeping them in a motorcycle for too long!

Regapping is possible if it's done carefully. The platinum or iridium material can take the heat and pressure, but don't do too well when they're scratched. NGK has recommendations to only use a wire gauge that's not pressed hard against the electrode and a maximum adjustment.

Quote:
https://www.ngksparkplugs.com/about-ngk/spark-plug-101/5-things-you-should-know-about-spark-plugs

In the late 1980s, when fine-wire spark plugs first appeared, installers used incorrect gap tools and procedures resulting in bent or broken-off firing electrodes. As a result, many people assumed that one cannot adjust the gap on a precious metal plug. While most NGK spark plugs are pre-gapped, there are instances where the gap requires modification. NGK recommends a wire-style or feeler gage gap tool, which can adjust the gap without prying against the center electrode. NGK also recommends adjusting the gap no more than +/- 0.008” from the preset gap.


The problem with anti-seize is that the torque specs are made with dry threads in mind. It's possible to damage the threads by overtightening and possibly have issues with the plug loosening. Not to mention the stuff getting where it shouldn't. The chrome plating on the threads is great.

I guess one of the issues with long life plugs is that they're often spec'ed because they last long for cars where it's a huge pain to access, like the back of a V engine or a boxer. So you go 10 years or 100k miles without loosening the plugs. I guess it's not so bad in an inline engine. I used to check the platinum plugs on my Integra since it was ridiculously easy to access. When I had someone install plugs on an older Integra, they charged 10 minutes labor. I figured out how easy it was to do myself. When I had someone install plugs on my WRX, they charged 2 hours labor.

And there's that "copper plug" thing again. I remember the first time I was corrected when I thought the electrode was copper. Basically all plugs these days use a copper core, but none use a copper outer electrode. That was also in the NGK answers:

Quote:
“Copper spark plugs” is a term mistakenly used for a standard material spark plug. A standard material spark plug traditionally uses a nickel-alloy outer material fused to a copper core. Almost all spark plugs use a copper core center to conduct the electricity, jump the gap, and promote heat dissipation. However, as an outer electrode material, copper would not be a good choice, as it is soft and has a low melting point (resulting in a plug that would last minutes, not miles). Nearly all NGK spark plugs, including precious metals iridium and platinum, have a copper core. When one talks in terms of nickel alloys, platinum and iridium, one is referring to its durability, or how long a spark plug will last before it needs to be replaced. However, when one talks about copper, he or she is referring to its ability to conduct electricity that is needed to fire across the gap and ignite the air-fuel mixture.
 
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