spark plug torque

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Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
Should I go with NGK or Denso plugs?


Either, all day long. Just make sure NGK is an Original/genuine one!
 
I torque my spark plugs with my ring finger 3 inches away from the socket, halfheartedly. Seems the be the perfect torque for every spark plug.
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Originally Posted By: maverickfhs
Originally Posted By: mobilaltima
Should I go with NGK or Denso plugs?


Either, all day long. Just make sure NGK is an Original/genuine one!

There are fakes of both brands, be careful out there.
 
I squirt a little WD-40 down the plug hole to clean the threads.
I use a little anti-sieze on the plug threads.
Of course, both of these lubricate the threads.
I start the plug by hand with a rubber plug installer; thread 'em all the way down by hand.
If there is any resistance something is wrong!
Chase the threads if necessary...
Torque them to 13 pound/feet.

I may be over-torqued...
But I have never had a problem.
Oh yeah, don't forget the dialectic grease.

NGK or Denso?
Wifey's 2006 TSX came from the factory with 2 of each...
All good either way.
 
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thanks for the info guys. Never thought to use anti seize, but ProDemand looks like an OEM type information website, so i'll go by what it says.
 
I go by the instructions that come with the plugs. I think it's usually seated, then another 90, but would have to double check....
 
The torque depends more on the cylinder head material. Those of us who grew up on iron headed big block high compression need torque wrenches. Don't ask me how I know...
 
I just tighten it by feel and have never had a problem in quite a few vehicles including newer ones with aluminum heads.

Denso plugs are great, as are NGKs.
 
Put a little anti-seize on the coil boots where they go over the plug body, as well. They become very difficult and time-consuming to remove after getting stuck to the plugs.
 
Originally Posted By: KMJ1992
In all seriousness tho use the spec, i work on ford 4.6/5.4 2v at work. You dont wanna screw those up. Too loose and they shoot out, to tight and they can strip.


Yes... on those

All others have been TFAR (That feels about right)
 
Originally Posted By: UberArchetype
Put a little anti-seize on the coil boots where they go over the plug body, as well. They become very difficult and time-consuming to remove after getting stuck to the plugs.

NO!!! you use a dab of di-electric grease or silicon grease or "spark-plug boot greases"; yes they sell that in the store.

anti-seize is the wrong lubricant for that application.
 
Originally Posted By: Vikas
anti-seize is the wrong lubricant for that application.

You can use KY Jelly on it for all I care. Anything is better than having the coil boots stuck.
 
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Originally Posted By: UberArchetype
Originally Posted By: Vikas
anti-seize is the wrong lubricant for that application.

You can use KY Jelly on it for all I care. Anything is better than having the coil boots stuck.

Not really. Doesn't all anti-seize have metallic particles? That would be less than ideal for a spark plug boot.

And KY Jelly will dry out and no longer be effective. Dielectric grease is the proper material for this use.
 
Originally Posted By: UberArchetype
Put a little anti-seize on the coil boots where they go over the plug body, as well. They become very difficult and time-consuming to remove after getting stuck to the plugs.


Do not do this. That can cause a pathway for misfire. Anti-seize is a metallic grease, you want to keep that off the plug porcelain and boots. You need to be careful not to have it all over your hands when handling spark plugs. Just a bit on the threads. Don't over-tighten then when using anti-seize i think its 20% less torgue when you do. I do mine by feel anyway.

Dielectric grease is what you want to use on the boots.
 
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on my old 392 Hemi with the 3/4 reach plug and crush washer. i would stop when the crush washer stopped crushing.
 
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