1998 Expedition 5.4L Spark Plug Torque Setting

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lvt

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I have a Ford Expedition that was purchased new and is just now turning over 100K miles. So, I want to replace the plugs and coils. After much reading and research I feel I can do the job and I am ready to begin; except for one detail. The Ford manuals and most individuals online state that the correct torque for the spark plugs is between 80 and 168 inch pounds (7 – 14 ft/lbs). I just recently purchased a torque wrench to ensure the plugs were torqued properly. Then I come across a couple of online sites that state the torque setting is not enough and has been changed to 24-30 ft/lbs.

Which is correct?
Has this spec been changed from what the Ford manuals indicate?
Does anyone know what torque setting a Ford mechanic uses on routine tune-ups?

Thanks so much!
 
Snug, not more (about 7 ft/lbs with clean threads). There are only 3-4 threads in the head, 24-30 ft/lbs will probably tear them out or at least weaken them so severely it will spit the plug out.
 
I'd use a torque wrench to 7ft pounds then stick a ratchet on there and make sure it feels snug.
 
Originally Posted By: donnyj08
definitely 7-14lbs especially on that year of 5.4l. 24-30lbs is way too much for any type of Aluminum head IMO. I like to use a little anti-seize as well.


Anti-seize is kind of a bad idea IMO. You tend to over torque the plugs. NGK plugs already have a dry coating on them anyway, I'm sure other brands do as well.
 
I've never torqued a plug. Just snug it up with a ratchet. And yes, I apply a little anti sieze.
 
Originally Posted By: bvance554
I've never torqued a plug. Just snug it up with a ratchet. And yes, I apply a little anti sieze.

Me too, I never torqued anything because I don't own one.

I don't have anything likes anti-seize so I didn't use it, but I use a drop ATF.
 
Torque wrench's typically run a little high at the bottom of the scale (even tho it far exceeds the limit). Iv always done the two finger method.

Get them down to the point where they don't tighten freely then put 2 fingers on the ratchet and pull until you feel about the same amount of pressure as the weight of a gallon of milk.
 
I'd buy NGK and read on the box the stated angle.

Set yourself up so you can visualize the MAX angle and take note.

Then do your best to "feel" the washer compress and the plug to seat, minding the MAX angle and don't surpass it.

If you feel a nice positive resistance stop.

I don't think it would hurt afterwards to set a torque wrench to 15 ft lbs and carefully see if it turns anymore before it clicks if you have one laying around.

Just as a double check...
 
Originally Posted By: Falken
I'd buy NGK and read on the box the stated angle.

Set yourself up so you can visualize the MAX angle and take note.

Then do your best to "feel" the washer compress and the plug to seat, minding the MAX angle and don't surpass it.

If you feel a nice positive resistance stop.

I don't think it would hurt afterwards to set a torque wrench to 15 ft lbs and carefully see if it turns anymore before it clicks if you have one laying around.

Just as a double check...





These don't have a washer, they are taper seat, and 6" down inside the head FYI.
 
The biggest cause of flying sparkplug syndrome in the Ford modular motors is improper torque. As stated they have aluminium heads and only a few threads in the head. Under-tightening can lead to loosening of the plug while over-tightening will ruin the threads.

I don't care how calibrated you think your arm is, USE A TORQUE WRENCH on Ford modular heads. 7-15 ft/lbs is the accepted range, while my factory service manual just says 11 (no range given).
 
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