Spark plug torque

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Jun 9, 2019
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Rhode Island
Going to be changing out a set of 6 plugs on my brother 2012 Honda Odyssey soon because he has a p0304 code. What is the toque spec? Is it still 13 lb ft or should I do 20 lb ft? I don’t want to have the same issue I had with my wife’s 2013 fit; with having spark plugs loosening up
 
Pretty sure the loosening spark plugs issue is unique to Fits and not common at all on Odysseys. Haven't heard about it at least and we owned one for years. Every spec I found said 13 ft/lbs if you use anti-seize or 18 ft/lbs if installed dry. Honda says use anti-seize, FWIW.
 
I would go 18-20. Really no risk of stripping if you have a good torque wrench. Many Hondas had the loosening plug issue. My s2000 they were shockingly loose when I removed them.
 
Going to be changing out a set of 6 plugs on my brother 2012 Honda Odyssey soon because he has a p0304 code. What is the toque spec? Is it still 13 lb ft or should I do 20 lb ft? I don’t want to have the same issue I had with my wife’s 2013 fit; with having spark plugs loosening up
Put 'em in hand tight. Go 1/4 turn more. That's it. Stop there and go have a cold beer.
 
As per NGK tech dept, you torque the plug the first time to the higher figure of spec spec and if you pull the plug for any reason, you use a degree wheel as if you re torque, you would add too much torque to the plug. I then asked then why not have a 2nd and beyond torque setting that was a lesser "corrected" torque setting. He had no answer for it, except this is how it is done he said. I did not think torquing plugs was a big deal, but with these little small diameter thread plugs it is a real big deal. Over on the Hyundai Kona site a guy put in Bosch spark plugs speced for the car and "he said" he torqed them and it dropped a plug and "chunk" shotpeened is cylinder walls, piston and busted a valve in 1 cylinder. Hyundai said not our plug, go pound sand. Bosch took the plugs back and did a forensic analysis of the plugs and said the plug washers were not full compressed and there for it was not their problem and told the guy to go pound sand. He spent $8,500+ on a new motor out of his pocket. Fully and correct torque is a big deal on these small plugged turbo cars.

RooflessVW might be able to attest for the problem with some VW/Audis dropping plugs. I don't know if it is torque related, but a guy at my work is an Audi guy with a couple tuner Golf R's and a tuner S3 Audi and this said a bunch of people switch out plugs at 20,000 miles or less and the plug of choice now seems to be the NGK racing plug with the 45 deg grounding electrode and some using a groundless electrode plug out of paranoia.
 
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As per NGK tech dept, you torque the plug the first time to the higher figure of spec spec and if you pull the plug for any reason, you use a degree wheel as if you re torque, you would add too much torque to the plug. I then asked then why not have a 2nd and beyond torque setting that was a lesser "corrected" torque setting. He had no answer for it, except this is how it is done he said. I did not think torquing plugs was a big deal, but with these little small diameter thread plugs it is a real big deal. Over on the Hyundai Kona site a guy put in Bosch spark plugs speced for the car and "he said" he torqed them and it dropped a plug and "chunk" shotpeened is cylinder walls, piston and busted a valve in 1 cylinder. Hyundai said not our plug, go pound sand. Bosch took the plugs back and did a forensic analysis of the plugs and said the plug washers were not full compressed and there for it was not their problem and told the guy to go pound sand. He spent $8,500+ on a new motor out of his pocket. Fully and correct torque is a big deal on these small plugged turbo cars.

RooflessVW might be able to attest for the problem with some VW/Audis dropping plugs. I don't know if it is torque related, but a guy at my work is an Audi guy with a couple tuner Golf R's and a tuner S3 Audi and this said a bunch of people switch out plugs at 20,000 miles or less and the plug of choice now seems to be the NGK racing plug with the 45 deg grounding electrode and some using a groundless electrode plug out of paranoia.
This is a 2012 Honda Odyssey, I don’t think it has the same problem.
 
I use a tiny bit of Liqui-Moly anti-sneeze and stop tightening just as I feel the the crush washer flatten.

My stop point matches the torque angle on the NGK box almost exactly. It’s uncanny.

NGK says not to use anti-seeze but @Trav says to use uses it.

So I use it.
 
Unless the anti seize is a high heat type stuff, your better off with out, since the normal stuff is just like putting loctite on the spark plugs.
The heat will dry it out. Anti sneeze also is known to change the heat transfer that all spark plugs have ratings for.
And if your not ocd for clean, all you have to do is have that on your fingers and touch things the wrong way and you will have a ruined coil or wire boot, that will arc over. Best to keep it away from the ignition system, if it is conductive paste.
 
I use a tiny bit of Liqui-Moly anti-sneeze and stop tightening just as I feel the the crush washer flatten.

My stop point matches the torque angle on the NGK box almost exactly. It’s uncanny.

NGK says not to use anti-seeze but @Trav says to use uses it.

So I use it.
I thought NGK (and perhaps others) applied anti seize at the factory??

As a deterrent to users slobbering on vast amounts.
 
I thought NGK (and perhaps others) applied anti seize at the factory??

As a deterrent to users slobbering on vast amounts.
No anti-sneeze on any NGK plugs I’ve bought. They do mention a special coating on the threads. I suppose that with my 20k change I don’t need anti-seize. But I trust @Trav based on his experience.

I am stingy with the anti-seize.
 
I use NGK exclusively and apply a small amount of anti-seize. I use Champion 2612 (graphite) instead of paste.

There might be something to NGK's claim of some coating or plating. The 2612 does bead somewhat when applied.
 
I use NGK exclusively and apply a small amount of anti-seize. I use Champion 2612 (graphite) instead of paste.

There might be something to NGK's claim of some coating or plating. The 2612 does bead somewhat when applied.
I will try a 20k run without the Liqui-Moly anti-seize. Maybe there will not be a difference? 🤷🏻‍♂️
 
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