Let's say you have a car that will consume oil X brand, but not with Y brand. Would it not be better to use X brand, because even if it consumes, you're putting in fresh oil every so often?
Some oil consuption a good thing?
- Thread starter Scuderia
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I see your point and adding oil does replenish additives that get depleted. My preference is to have an engine that uses little to none and use a shorter OCI.
I would prefer to have no oil consumption. the oil that is being consumed likely has more volatility and is not as good of an oil as one that is not consumed.
Originally Posted By: Scuderia
Let's say you have a car that will consume oil X brand, but not with Y brand. Would it not be better to use X brand, because even if it consumes, you're putting in fresh oil every so often?
Yes if you are too lazy to change the oil and/or you want to brag about how long your OCI is. If you use a quart every 1500 miles or so, then you never have to change the oil, just the filter.
Let's say you have a car that will consume oil X brand, but not with Y brand. Would it not be better to use X brand, because even if it consumes, you're putting in fresh oil every so often?
Yes if you are too lazy to change the oil and/or you want to brag about how long your OCI is. If you use a quart every 1500 miles or so, then you never have to change the oil, just the filter.
Originally Posted By: Burt
If you use a quart every 1500 miles or so, then you never have to change the oil, just the filter.
Yikes
If you use a quart every 1500 miles or so, then you never have to change the oil, just the filter.
Yikes
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: Burt
If you use a quart every 1500 miles or so, then you never have to change the oil, just the filter.
Yikes
Think about it. Every 6000 miles, you have added enough oil to completely replace the oil. What is the filter not taking out that does not leave with the lost oil?
Cooling towers evaporate water leaving behind concentrated minerals. They don't dump all the water and replace with 100% fresh, but rather constantly blowdown a portion and replace with some fresh water to maintain a fixed concentration level.
Originally Posted By: Burt
If you use a quart every 1500 miles or so, then you never have to change the oil, just the filter.
Yikes
Think about it. Every 6000 miles, you have added enough oil to completely replace the oil. What is the filter not taking out that does not leave with the lost oil?
Cooling towers evaporate water leaving behind concentrated minerals. They don't dump all the water and replace with 100% fresh, but rather constantly blowdown a portion and replace with some fresh water to maintain a fixed concentration level.
Originally Posted By: hate2work
Originally Posted By: Burt
If you use a quart every 1500 miles or so, then you never have to change the oil, just the filter.
Yikes
There was a used oil analysis posted of about 15K miles on dino where there was considerable consumption. I believe it was a Prizm or Corolla. It lends some support to the theory mentioned here.
Originally Posted By: Burt
If you use a quart every 1500 miles or so, then you never have to change the oil, just the filter.
Yikes
There was a used oil analysis posted of about 15K miles on dino where there was considerable consumption. I believe it was a Prizm or Corolla. It lends some support to the theory mentioned here.
A little oil use seems good and normal to me.
I repeat: a LITTLE
Why?
it shows/ensures the rings/bores/pistons are fully being oiled
Some V8 high performance engine builders shoot for a qt every 1,500-2,000 or so. Even though they can easily use different rings to use less oil.
Many modern small engines don't seem to burn any. I know my ZX2 never uses oil. Seems odd to me.
I repeat: a LITTLE
Why?
it shows/ensures the rings/bores/pistons are fully being oiled
Some V8 high performance engine builders shoot for a qt every 1,500-2,000 or so. Even though they can easily use different rings to use less oil.
Many modern small engines don't seem to burn any. I know my ZX2 never uses oil. Seems odd to me.
Originally Posted By: Scuderia
Let's say you have a car that will consume oil X brand, but not with Y brand. Would it not be better to use X brand, because even if it consumes, you're putting in fresh oil every so often?
Yeah,but thats' not the greatest way to get fresh oil,however top-ups do count toward oil longevity.
Let's say you have a car that will consume oil X brand, but not with Y brand. Would it not be better to use X brand, because even if it consumes, you're putting in fresh oil every so often?
Yeah,but thats' not the greatest way to get fresh oil,however top-ups do count toward oil longevity.
If some is good then more is better, right?
This makes my Saturn at the top of the food chain.
Burt, true you will have added enough oil equal to an oil change but there are contaminants that will collect and never be completely expelled without a drain. Nearing the end of a car's life you could enjoy this luxury, but if its a keeper just suck it up and add your quart every so often and do a complete change around the OCI your manual suggests.
This makes my Saturn at the top of the food chain.
Burt, true you will have added enough oil equal to an oil change but there are contaminants that will collect and never be completely expelled without a drain. Nearing the end of a car's life you could enjoy this luxury, but if its a keeper just suck it up and add your quart every so often and do a complete change around the OCI your manual suggests.
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
If some is good then more is better, right?
Burt, true you will have added enough oil equal to an oil change but there are contaminants that will collect and never be completely expelled without a drain.
Name the contaminants that will collect and not go out the tail pipe?. Which engine oil will have fewer contaminants (on average) and provide more protection over the term: one that goes 10,000 miles without adding any oil or one that adds 6 quarts of fresh oil during that time?
If some is good then more is better, right?
Burt, true you will have added enough oil equal to an oil change but there are contaminants that will collect and never be completely expelled without a drain.
Name the contaminants that will collect and not go out the tail pipe?. Which engine oil will have fewer contaminants (on average) and provide more protection over the term: one that goes 10,000 miles without adding any oil or one that adds 6 quarts of fresh oil during that time?
Burt -
Good point.
Good point.
CAT actually extends the drain interval to account for add oil.
Cummins had a system (prior to particulate traps) called Centinel where oil was removed from the oil sump and mixed in with the fuel at the fuel pump and burned in the engine. It was replaced with oil from a reservoir. The purpose was to extend the oil change interval.
Oil Change Interval? Every 525,000 Miles on Conventional Oil.
Cummins had a system (prior to particulate traps) called Centinel where oil was removed from the oil sump and mixed in with the fuel at the fuel pump and burned in the engine. It was replaced with oil from a reservoir. The purpose was to extend the oil change interval.
Oil Change Interval? Every 525,000 Miles on Conventional Oil.
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Good thought, one that I in particular was thinking about. I had the same thought though.....about not using that drain plug to drain the pan for such a long time....lol. But you're right, that oil is constantly running through a presumably "clean" filter......and since you are constantly adding top off oil, it keeps the additives alive in the crankcase.....sounds "OK" to me
Originally Posted By: Burt
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
If some is good then more is better, right?
Burt, true you will have added enough oil equal to an oil change but there are contaminants that will collect and never be completely expelled without a drain.
Name the contaminants that will collect and not go out the tail pipe?. Which engine oil will have fewer contaminants (on average) and provide more protection over the term: one that goes 10,000 miles without adding any oil or one that adds 6 quarts of fresh oil during that time?
Will this work for you Burt?
The oil turns black because it has a combination of suspended crud in it that is too small for the filter to take out, and other chemicals that are by products of oil and additive breakdown and bypass. You do not want to leave that circulating forever."
Also
"I agree also. The acid levels would also help destroy the engine."
Aren't there byproducts from combustion that cannot be filtered?
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
If some is good then more is better, right?
Burt, true you will have added enough oil equal to an oil change but there are contaminants that will collect and never be completely expelled without a drain.
Name the contaminants that will collect and not go out the tail pipe?. Which engine oil will have fewer contaminants (on average) and provide more protection over the term: one that goes 10,000 miles without adding any oil or one that adds 6 quarts of fresh oil during that time?
Will this work for you Burt?
The oil turns black because it has a combination of suspended crud in it that is too small for the filter to take out, and other chemicals that are by products of oil and additive breakdown and bypass. You do not want to leave that circulating forever."
Also
"I agree also. The acid levels would also help destroy the engine."
Aren't there byproducts from combustion that cannot be filtered?
Originally Posted By: mjoekingz28
The oil turns black because it has a combination of suspended crud in it that is too small for the filter to take out, and other chemicals that are by products of oil and additive breakdown and bypass. You do not want to leave that circulating forever."
Also
"I agree also. The acid levels would also help destroy the engine."
Aren't there byproducts from combustion that cannot be filtered?
The amount of contaminants, acid, etc that are suspended in the oil are also burned with the "lost" oil, eventually there will just be the average high prior to adding and average low after the add... The only way to tell if one is in the danger zone would be a used oil analysis, I'd just change the oil at 12-15Kmi and not even consider time ...
The oil turns black because it has a combination of suspended crud in it that is too small for the filter to take out, and other chemicals that are by products of oil and additive breakdown and bypass. You do not want to leave that circulating forever."
Also
"I agree also. The acid levels would also help destroy the engine."
Aren't there byproducts from combustion that cannot be filtered?
The amount of contaminants, acid, etc that are suspended in the oil are also burned with the "lost" oil, eventually there will just be the average high prior to adding and average low after the add... The only way to tell if one is in the danger zone would be a used oil analysis, I'd just change the oil at 12-15Kmi and not even consider time ...
^I agree somewhat. Yet, I'd still want to change my oil not to 'risk' high TAN levels. If adding fresh oil with solid TBN negates this 'potential' increase in acidic condition inside the engine, well okay but I still don't feel clean.
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