Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I disagree with most of this. GDI engines may have first come to the public eye in racing at the LeMans 24-Hour, but that is not where its development started. Mitsubishi introduced wall-guided GDI engines into the Japanese market in the late '80's and early '90's, but they were not terribly successful due to problems with excess soot from the combustion process.
Mitsu may have been the first with automotive GDI engines, but the first GDI engine I'm aware of in mass production was the Daimler engine in the Messerschmitt Bf 109 WWII fighter plane. http://www.battleofbritain1940.net/0013.html
At any rate, the deposit issues seem to break down into two categories, combustion chamber and intake valve. A high temperature detergent like Shell's V-Power or Redline SI-1 will likely help with the former, but regular solvent based intake cleaning is likely the only thing which will help the latter.
You can get a reasonable idea of problem and how solvable it is by following BG Products' Ford Taurus SHO (GDI) on their blog: http://www.bgfueltest.com/
BG is the OEM supplier of intake cleaning solutions to VW/Audi among others. Wynn's is another OEM supplier, both have a reusable injection tool which uses shop air to inject cleaner into the intake of a car. These products and tools are marketed primarily to professional mechanics, but I've seen them for sale to the DIY mechanic on the internet, ebay is of course always a good source.
On the more DIY side, I've used a variety of induction cleaners on my MPFI cars in the past with good results. My particular problem child was a 1998 Mercury Mystique (RIP) with the 2.5l Duratec V6. This engine is unique in that the fuel injectors act on only 6 of the 12 intake valves with the variable length manifold feeding the other intake valves from separate, shorter runners. Because of this, the Duratec V6 sees intake valve deposits similar to a DI engine due to the lack of detergent/fuel flowing over the secondary intake valves. The Contour Enthusiast Group (contour.org) had lots of threads on intake cleaning, but the database is getting unreliable due to age and lack of interest. The consensus there is solvent cleaners work reasonably well, but only if you don't let the deposits get too thick. Many Contour/Mystique owners (myself included) did the cleaning once a year (15k miles for me). A thread showing the problem:
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?2993-Cleaning-UIM-LIM-dirty-pictures-enclosed
Amsoil Power Foam, Berryman's B12, GM Top Engine Cleaner (now discontinued in aerosol), Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (rebadged Wynn's) and the 3M DIY intake cleaner kit have all worked well for me. The 3M kit is my favorite (though expensive) because of it's convenient self-spraying can and hose which routes the cleaner to a central location in front of the throttle body. Seafoam also makes an aerosol can with a long tube for routing to the throttle body, but I find the harsher solvent cleaners to be more effective than Seafoam. The other cleaners mentioned above require finding a convenient vacuum line.
3M video tutorial on their kit (DVD comes with the kit):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6G0zb4QcIs&feature=relmfu
MFR Links
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/apf.aspx
http://www.bgprod.com/products/fuelair.html
http://www.wynnsusa.com/fuel.aspx
I hope that helps!
I disagree with most of this. GDI engines may have first come to the public eye in racing at the LeMans 24-Hour, but that is not where its development started. Mitsubishi introduced wall-guided GDI engines into the Japanese market in the late '80's and early '90's, but they were not terribly successful due to problems with excess soot from the combustion process.
Mitsu may have been the first with automotive GDI engines, but the first GDI engine I'm aware of in mass production was the Daimler engine in the Messerschmitt Bf 109 WWII fighter plane. http://www.battleofbritain1940.net/0013.html
At any rate, the deposit issues seem to break down into two categories, combustion chamber and intake valve. A high temperature detergent like Shell's V-Power or Redline SI-1 will likely help with the former, but regular solvent based intake cleaning is likely the only thing which will help the latter.
You can get a reasonable idea of problem and how solvable it is by following BG Products' Ford Taurus SHO (GDI) on their blog: http://www.bgfueltest.com/
BG is the OEM supplier of intake cleaning solutions to VW/Audi among others. Wynn's is another OEM supplier, both have a reusable injection tool which uses shop air to inject cleaner into the intake of a car. These products and tools are marketed primarily to professional mechanics, but I've seen them for sale to the DIY mechanic on the internet, ebay is of course always a good source.
On the more DIY side, I've used a variety of induction cleaners on my MPFI cars in the past with good results. My particular problem child was a 1998 Mercury Mystique (RIP) with the 2.5l Duratec V6. This engine is unique in that the fuel injectors act on only 6 of the 12 intake valves with the variable length manifold feeding the other intake valves from separate, shorter runners. Because of this, the Duratec V6 sees intake valve deposits similar to a DI engine due to the lack of detergent/fuel flowing over the secondary intake valves. The Contour Enthusiast Group (contour.org) had lots of threads on intake cleaning, but the database is getting unreliable due to age and lack of interest. The consensus there is solvent cleaners work reasonably well, but only if you don't let the deposits get too thick. Many Contour/Mystique owners (myself included) did the cleaning once a year (15k miles for me). A thread showing the problem:
http://www.contour.org/ceg-vb/showthread.php?2993-Cleaning-UIM-LIM-dirty-pictures-enclosed
Amsoil Power Foam, Berryman's B12, GM Top Engine Cleaner (now discontinued in aerosol), Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner (rebadged Wynn's) and the 3M DIY intake cleaner kit have all worked well for me. The 3M kit is my favorite (though expensive) because of it's convenient self-spraying can and hose which routes the cleaner to a central location in front of the throttle body. Seafoam also makes an aerosol can with a long tube for routing to the throttle body, but I find the harsher solvent cleaners to be more effective than Seafoam. The other cleaners mentioned above require finding a convenient vacuum line.
3M video tutorial on their kit (DVD comes with the kit):
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q6G0zb4QcIs&feature=relmfu
MFR Links
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/apf.aspx
http://www.bgprod.com/products/fuelair.html
http://www.wynnsusa.com/fuel.aspx
I hope that helps!
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