Solution: Integrate Oil Cooler into Amsoil BMK pre-oiler/dual filter?

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I know the more external oil lines/accessories the higher the risk for a problem
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Three products continue to intrigue me and I have struggled with an idea to have them all.

With Amsoils Dual Remote & Preoiler pump would kind of oil circuit would you recommend to getting an oil cooler involved? I want it to be a simple yet sturdy set-up. Having a massive fluid line burst or so would cause a bad day to say the least
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I would at least use a thermostat on the oil cooler. Too cool and oil is not good. With the Amsoil dualremote setup I would probably cool after the filters, but others will say cool before the filters. There are those oil coolers/stabilizers that use engine coolant flow too.

If you haven't yet bought the Amsoil preoiler, you might consider a Canton Racing 1 quart Accusump. I have Amsoil preoiler on one vehicle, Accusump on the other. I like the Accusump better - it was less expensive and has maybe 10 times the oil capacity.
 
Many OEMs have a oil coolers integrated with the filter mount for their higher performance engines. No chance of over cooling and very little plumbing involved.

You can also get oil coolers that mount in the lower radiator hose.
 
Laminova manufactures all the OEM versions of the lower rad hose types. They do the Ford Crown Vic and the LS1 PS cooler. When you see an Aeroquip ..it too is a Laminova.

LS1 owners will recognize this

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Note the the longer one suspiciously resembles any of the Aeroquip units that you may see on ebay.

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Here's the contact info Laminova resellers

Mine will be going in the upper rad hose. I don't have any cooling issues ..nor is it a go fast application. My 195-200 outlet temp should do just fine in my case. I want hotter oil in as fast a manner as possible.
 
quote:

Originally posted by porcupine73:
I would at least use a thermostat on the oil cooler. Too cool and oil is not good.

porcupine is absolutely correct, your oil must get hot enough to boil off any acid inducing moisture.

Bill
 
Pretty much, outrun. They will both hang around 100C ..even uncooled. My observations and noted observations of others is that 180-220F (somewhat indexed for ambient temp) would be normal oil temps for many applications in the span of normal operations at full saturation (highway, idle, stop and go/low speed) Naturally, someone who is hammering a hiper engine is going to go out of the normal operational envelope (diesels go way out too) and peak out much higher.

Those who use exchangers should see less variance and gravitate more toward 195-200F oil temps. The size of the exchanger will determine how much they diviate in the transition(s). This assumes that the OEM rad is of adaquate capacity for what it's being hit with ..which it usually is in an unmodified application.
 
and in your opinion what is the mean optimum oil temperature?

I keep digging up 180F for both engine and ATF online.

What are expected oil temperatures at the ring packs? My assumption would be some kind of spike from the combustions which would promptly be "whisked away" by the coolant hanging out in the cylinder jackets?
 
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