For 5 minutes of my time and an existing bottle of Plastx, that's an improvement
So we're all buying Toyotas now 🤔
- Thread starter michaelluscher
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For 5 minutes of my time and an existing bottle of Plastx, that's an improvement
Well that's all much better
When you can start to see the jeweled pattern of the reflectors, instead of a milky cataract style haze, that's an improvement
Even the reverse light is now clearer and brighter
Wow, an actual modicum of a beam pattern and cutoff line
Would you be willing to spend money on upgrading the exterior lighting to LED?
Well, the CHMSL is LED, so two 7443 LEDs for the brake light is a reasonable safety upgrade for $10 or so
But maybe I'm biased, I've been rear ended 3 times
The turns require a flasher change, and the H9 mod has satisfied my low beam complaints
It's a definite maybe
Well, it's burning oil
And I'm amazed it ran as well as it did
3x (maybe factory
) SK20R11s, and one PK20TT (far right)The odd one out plug also had the only non Toyota/Denso coil
So it must've had a dead miss at one point, and one coil/plug was changed (far right, cylinder 4)
Left to right is cylinders 1-4
The one ostensibly newer plug
Oh good heavens
So yeah, needs 4 plugs at a minimum
It's getting NGK G Power single platinums, because at $2.50 each they represent the best value
I'm not spending $10+ for the dual iridiums at this point in it's life
I'll consider one new Denso coil, because aftermarket coils suck
The piston soak has begun
2 cans (minus some spillage) were averaged across all 4 holes
Let's take note of the dipstick level to see if it rises as liquid makes it past the pistons/rings
I started it this afternoon
Should I let it sit all week till next Saturday?
Maybe I'll open another can and top it off throughout the week
My plan is to suck out whatever remains, then drip in a little engine oil so the pistons aren't moving in the bores dry
Then crank it a bit to spread oil along the rings/walls
Install new plugs and watch the smoke show
Anything wrong with this plan?
I'm assuming an oil change should be done before the first start to remove solvent contamination?
I'll probably leave the filter, it's only got 0.8 miles on it
Great work so far Michael!
Apparently there was a bad batch of coils, and Toyota had a LSC for it
Next time I'm at the parts counter, I'll have them run the VIN
I'm curious what if any work this thing had under warranty
Edit: mine are the factory originals
90919-T2005, now superceded to
90919-A2006, now discontinued and replaced by
90919-C2006, currently service part # for '08-'15 xB
Denso doesn't cross reference updated part numbers
But they are the OEM, and I'm inclined to use them when they are the OEM
So I'll wind up with a 673-1308
...wonder what was up with that bad batch of coils
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I'd spin crank by hand while it sits with B12. Top off with more B12 as needed. That way through piston ring movement B12 can seep deeper in the ring groves and actually break some stuff loose. After all is done - top off with a little oil and spin over by hand a couple times to introduce oil film to cylinder walls and piston rings. Only after that crank it with the starter (after cylinders are free of fluid obviously.)
I did this once in 2019 to my Camry, with B12 Chemtool, CRC GDI IVD aerosol, and good old fashioned throttle cleaner
I'll never forget the acrid disgusting gritty stained everything it touched crap it coughed out the cylinders
I need to buy another boroscope, my last one unalived itself after looking into a gas tank
I tried to clean, wire brush, and regap these
The ground electrode simply disintegrated
I sprayed some aerosol Kroil into each cylinder
I'd love to bar it over by hand, but I can't reach the crank pulley
I'll have to jack it up and pull the wheel sometime this week
I'll periodically hit it with B12 and Kroil throughout the week
The dipstick level has risen, so at least 1 cylinder is flowing
That's good news I suppose
Maybe after it's all cleaned out and oiled, I'll rent the compression tester and see how it scores
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- Dec 28, 2014
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I read somewhere on here about someone putting air pressure into the cylinder while doing a soak, and forcing the fluid past the rings. Sounded interesting. Guy modified a spark plug and fitted an air hose into it, put the pressure through it and cranked the engine upwards slowly by hand. Said it worked. Who knows?
Update, new boroscope on order
I finally got a bright pen light to look into the bores
All cylinders except 2 were dryish
Just oily carbon instead of flooded with B12
So it either seeped past the rings, or evaporated?
It's barely cracked 40° here so that's helping
I barred the engine over a little bit by hand
The dipstick now looks like this
Small particles of carbon?
I hit it a little harder with the can of Kroil, barred it over some more
Maybe tomorrow I'll alternate to B12 Chemtool
Now I have visual confirmation that the entire piston in all 4 cylinders is covered with liquid
When the boroscope comes, we'll be able to get a better look inside
I swung by the Toyota dealer, my VC gasket and throttle body gasket are on backorder, as was several of my other parts
He's hoping by Saturday they'll all be in
He did sell me 4qts of WS for $9.xx each, and another F1 oil filter for $4.xx
They're so good to me
Plates are due any day now
If nothing else, this has been a fascinating science experiment
I finally got a bright pen light to look into the bores
All cylinders except 2 were dryish
Just oily carbon instead of flooded with B12
So it either seeped past the rings, or evaporated?
It's barely cracked 40° here so that's helping
I barred the engine over a little bit by hand
The dipstick now looks like this
Small particles of carbon?
I hit it a little harder with the can of Kroil, barred it over some more
Maybe tomorrow I'll alternate to B12 Chemtool
Now I have visual confirmation that the entire piston in all 4 cylinders is covered with liquid
When the boroscope comes, we'll be able to get a better look inside
I swung by the Toyota dealer, my VC gasket and throttle body gasket are on backorder, as was several of my other parts
He's hoping by Saturday they'll all be in
He did sell me 4qts of WS for $9.xx each, and another F1 oil filter for $4.xx
They're so good to me
Plates are due any day now
If nothing else, this has been a fascinating science experiment
Well, I overfilled a little bit
Spinning it over by hand sent some flying out
Another half a can of Kroil and two cans of B12 were distributed across all 4 cylinders
Tomorrow I'll vacuum it all out, and take some good pictures with the boroscope
New plugs should arrive, oil and filter change
Then cross your fingers
it still runs after all thisThose are some of the worst plugs I've seen. Those usually still look great at 100k, guess after 250k its really time to change them.. hahaView attachment 90673
I tried to clean, wire brush, and regap these
The ground electrode simply disintegrated
I sprayed some aerosol Kroil into each cylinder
I'd love to bar it over by hand, but I can't reach the crank pulley
I'll have to jack it up and pull the wheel sometime this week
I'll periodically hit it with B12 and Kroil throughout the week
The dipstick level has risen, so at least 1 cylinder is flowing
That's good news I suppose
Maybe after it's all cleaned out and oiled, I'll rent the compression tester and see how it scores
L easy out
Now I gotta take the tailgate trim off again, drill holes in the inner sheet metal, and attack this problem from the inside
FedEx man brought RockAuto goodies, except the front passenger wiper is too chunky and it annoying taps the plastic cowl when they park
Because why should the little things work out
Cylinder 1 (yes I know the photo isn't very good)
Cylinder 2 (this is the one that consistently holds the most fluid)
cylinder 3 (valve shot, and fairly dry)
cylinder 4 (best one yet IMO)
This was after a little under 24 hours of being brimmed with Kroil and B12 Chemtool
So it's a fairly safe conclusion that cylinders 1, 3, and 4 are all flowing liquid through the rings fairly freely
Cylinder 2 seems like it's holding onto a little more
I barred it over, hit them all again with Kroil, some Seafoam top end foaming aerosol that I found in the shed, and 1 last can of B12
Once they all drain down again, that's it, I'm saving can 6 of 6 for the gas tank
I'll do an oil, filter change, suck out the cylinders, add a little splash of engine oil, crank it over on the starter to move oil around/build pressure
Screw in the new plugs and hope/pray this thing still runs after all this
Some of the pictures in person show faint hints of cross hatching on the cylinder walls, which I find hard to believe @ 281k
Someone stop me if I'm doing something wrong
4qts of HPL Engine cleaner are on the way