Briggs & Stratton do not differentiate between their flat heads and their OHVs in their oil recommendations. Their number one recommendation for all of their motors is synthetic 5W30, followed by straight 30 weight above 40 degrees. Their 3rd choice is dino multigrade, which they caution my cause some consumption, especially above 80 degrees.
So... Guess I should have stuck with SAE 30?
- Thread starter glum
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From my B&S owner's manual:
Clearly, I should have stuck to SAE 30.
Clearly, I should have stuck to SAE 30.
Originally Posted By: glum
From my B&S owner's manual:
Clearly, I should have stuck to SAE 30.
How old is this information? Check the B&S website and see that it gives the info as I stated above. I might add that I have never, in the last 50+ years, used straight 30 Weight in any of my OPE. I have always used the same oil that I used in my cars.
In any case, straight 30W will certainly do no harm, as long as its not too cold.
From my B&S owner's manual:
Clearly, I should have stuck to SAE 30.
How old is this information? Check the B&S website and see that it gives the info as I stated above. I might add that I have never, in the last 50+ years, used straight 30 Weight in any of my OPE. I have always used the same oil that I used in my cars.
In any case, straight 30W will certainly do no harm, as long as its not too cold.
Well the doc is copyrighted 1998. Like I've said, I bought this lawn mower in 1999. I downloaded the doc from the B&S site the other day because I didn't feel like getting it in the garage. It's the same info as I have in my printed copy.
In response...Saw the same thing with synthetic oil bought at a motorcycle shop for a crotch rocket. Two motorcycle mechanics have told me to never risk putting synthetic oil into a motorcycle crankcase that is used to regular oil. I'll have to tell them they're wrong.
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My toro rider with a 9 hp briggs had a similar problem with consumption. It's about 18 years old, and my grandfather bought it new. He then passed it on to my dad, then he passed it on to me.
I changed out the oil to Pennzoil 5w30 dino, and about 5 hours of run time after, I had to add 12oz of oil.
I got it from my dad, and I believe the last fill it had was Valvoline WB 5w30 off the tap at his dealership.
That seemed to last longer, though I don't know why.
They are both the same viscosity, and from what I've seen in voa's, Pennzoil has a better ad pack.
I don't get it. I topped off with some generic Amalie (parts plus branded) 10w40.
I think I'm going to Rotella, or Delo 15w40 next oil change.
I changed out the oil to Pennzoil 5w30 dino, and about 5 hours of run time after, I had to add 12oz of oil.
I got it from my dad, and I believe the last fill it had was Valvoline WB 5w30 off the tap at his dealership.
That seemed to last longer, though I don't know why.
They are both the same viscosity, and from what I've seen in voa's, Pennzoil has a better ad pack.
I don't get it. I topped off with some generic Amalie (parts plus branded) 10w40.
I think I'm going to Rotella, or Delo 15w40 next oil change.
After checking out the diffrent brands of 30wt, the price was to high to me for a staight 30wt oil. Super tech was the best deal at 2.40 a quart. It had a gasoline rating only of SM. What I ended up with was a 2 gallon container of Walmart fleet oil 30wt good for diesel and gasoline engines. It had a gasoline rating of SJ if I remember correctly.I guess time will tell if this is a good oil for air cool engines. Not all walmart carries it. It is listed on their website.
Originally Posted By: greystone
I did the same thing with a perfectly reliable briggs. Thru some Mobil 1 in it and slowly lost compression the rest of the summer until it would no longer start.
Had no problems on SAE 30 the 4 years previous.
I've used M1 oils in my Honda with very good results. 22 years and running great.
I did the same thing with a perfectly reliable briggs. Thru some Mobil 1 in it and slowly lost compression the rest of the summer until it would no longer start.
Had no problems on SAE 30 the 4 years previous.
I've used M1 oils in my Honda with very good results. 22 years and running great.
I bought some SynPower 20W-50 and put it in, hoping it helps with consumption, because I'm tired of inhaling all this oil when I mow. If the bloody thing dies tomorrow, oh well.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Originally Posted By: greystone
I did the same thing with a perfectly reliable briggs. Thru some Mobil 1 in it and slowly lost compression the rest of the summer until it would no longer start.
Had no problems on SAE 30 the 4 years previous.
I've used M1 oils in my Honda with very good results. 22 years and running great.
Yes, we know. M-1 works great for you in anything.......................................
Originally Posted By: greystone
I did the same thing with a perfectly reliable briggs. Thru some Mobil 1 in it and slowly lost compression the rest of the summer until it would no longer start.
Had no problems on SAE 30 the 4 years previous.
I've used M1 oils in my Honda with very good results. 22 years and running great.
Yes, we know. M-1 works great for you in anything.......................................
On the flip side---A person should use what the manufacturer recommends. I have been using Chevron Dello 400 30W in my 31 year old WH since new. No problems.
Some time back, I purchased a Gravely G16 with 234 hours run time. The owner stated that he used 30W Mobil 1 full synthetic. I searched everywhere and could not find this oil. Contrary to the owners manual, I decided to use 5W30 Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. After app. 8 hours of operation, I noticed that there was a small amount of oil going into the air cleaner housing, from the crankcase breather tube. I cleaned this oil up and after my next mowing it had returned.
I drained the oil and replaced it with Chevron 30W and after two mowings there is no oil escaping from the breather tube
Some time back, I purchased a Gravely G16 with 234 hours run time. The owner stated that he used 30W Mobil 1 full synthetic. I searched everywhere and could not find this oil. Contrary to the owners manual, I decided to use 5W30 Mobil 1 full synthetic oil. After app. 8 hours of operation, I noticed that there was a small amount of oil going into the air cleaner housing, from the crankcase breather tube. I cleaned this oil up and after my next mowing it had returned.
I drained the oil and replaced it with Chevron 30W and after two mowings there is no oil escaping from the breather tube
My 81 has the same 5w20 winter and 30w summer recommendation as the picture posted on the last page. It used 30w for over 25 years and now runs full synthetic 10w30. It feels like it's gained some hp but it could be in my head. It's been doing the job of a 24hp lawn tractor lately since it has an electrical problem. Very deep grass for a 3hp engine.
I used 5-50 Castrol synthetic in all our 4 cycle power equipment for over 20 years until I could not find it anymore and I started reading BITOG in 2005. Now I use 5-40 Rotella synthetic in most everything. My oldest mower is a John Deere 14 HP Kawasaki one cyl. lawn tractor and after over 20 years is still running strong. It does not smoke or burn any oil. About two years ago I bought a used John Deere garden tractor with a 2 cyl. 15 HP Kawasaki of about the same year of my other John Deere. I don't know what it has been run on but I switched it over to 5-40 Rettella and it does not smoke or burn oil.
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