and oh yeah I had 2 Stihl chainsaws also, with no problems
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Snowblower bites the dust/ Oil ratios for 2 cycles
- Thread starter Tdbo
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Originally Posted By: Barkleymut
I owned a commercial landscaping company for over 8 years. In that time I used only Amsoil at 80:1.
During that time I owned:
5 weedeaters (echo, shindaiwa)
1 hedgetrimmer (echo)
3 backpack blowers (echo, stihl, shindaiwa)
1 Lawnboy 2 stroke
Never once did any of them break down. Not once, used multiple times per day during growing season. I still have a BP blower and weedeater, both over 10 years old, still using Amsoil at 80:1. Argue all you want about 50:1, 32:1, 100:1 all I hear is "my dealer told me to use 50:1 because that is what is on his shelf"
The Amsoil 2 cycle oil by comparison has a heavier viscosity versus other 2 cycle oil. Could this be of some value. Reason what type of synthetic base stock does Amsoil 2 cycle oil use as they do promote as less emissions and wear protection.
I owned a commercial landscaping company for over 8 years. In that time I used only Amsoil at 80:1.
During that time I owned:
5 weedeaters (echo, shindaiwa)
1 hedgetrimmer (echo)
3 backpack blowers (echo, stihl, shindaiwa)
1 Lawnboy 2 stroke
Never once did any of them break down. Not once, used multiple times per day during growing season. I still have a BP blower and weedeater, both over 10 years old, still using Amsoil at 80:1. Argue all you want about 50:1, 32:1, 100:1 all I hear is "my dealer told me to use 50:1 because that is what is on his shelf"
The Amsoil 2 cycle oil by comparison has a heavier viscosity versus other 2 cycle oil. Could this be of some value. Reason what type of synthetic base stock does Amsoil 2 cycle oil use as they do promote as less emissions and wear protection.
Originally Posted By: boraticus
I have tons of two cycle equipment and I also bought a new Toro 221QE a few weeks ago.
DO NOT run your equipment at 100:1. That's simply bad advice for an air cooled engine. I don't care what kind of oil is used.
This is true. You will generally make more HP and engine will last longer at 32:1 range. Always stick with what the engine mfg requires. An oil supplier has no idea what each engine OEM developed their engines around. In my opionon, the 100:1 stuff some oil suppliers list is just marketing [censored] to make you think their oil is so great it will run at 100:1. It may work, but its not the best. Junk oil may work at 100:1 too.
I have tons of two cycle equipment and I also bought a new Toro 221QE a few weeks ago.
DO NOT run your equipment at 100:1. That's simply bad advice for an air cooled engine. I don't care what kind of oil is used.
This is true. You will generally make more HP and engine will last longer at 32:1 range. Always stick with what the engine mfg requires. An oil supplier has no idea what each engine OEM developed their engines around. In my opionon, the 100:1 stuff some oil suppliers list is just marketing [censored] to make you think their oil is so great it will run at 100:1. It may work, but its not the best. Junk oil may work at 100:1 too.
Originally Posted By: Cujet
Tests conclusively show that 32 to 1 provides all the protection you will need. That's 4 ounces per gallon.
I've posted test info in the past, but I can't keep writing the same thing all the time.
50 to 1 wears slightly more rapidly under high load conditions.
100 to 1 wears quickly.
16 to 1 produces more power.
Kart engines require 16 to 1 or 20 to 1 due to high stresses.
Oil type is less important than many think for general use.
Bottom line: 32 to 1 works.
Agree 100%. Additionally, IMO, synthetics may give better protection under some circumstances, but many absorb moisture, and don't protect as well from rust while the unit isn't being used.
Tests conclusively show that 32 to 1 provides all the protection you will need. That's 4 ounces per gallon.
I've posted test info in the past, but I can't keep writing the same thing all the time.
50 to 1 wears slightly more rapidly under high load conditions.
100 to 1 wears quickly.
16 to 1 produces more power.
Kart engines require 16 to 1 or 20 to 1 due to high stresses.
Oil type is less important than many think for general use.
Bottom line: 32 to 1 works.
Agree 100%. Additionally, IMO, synthetics may give better protection under some circumstances, but many absorb moisture, and don't protect as well from rust while the unit isn't being used.
Originally Posted By: occity79
Probably get royally flamed for this, I'm using 20:1 ratio (5 %), and using a good synthetic, I get low smoke once the engine is hot, and no carbon residues, nice and oily inside the engine.
20:1 is over the top with anything newer than 40 of 50 years old. Modern oils used in relatively modern engines can get the job done quite handily at 30 to 40:1 and even at 50:1.
I have an air cooled two cycle enduro race bike that requires 20:1. At 9000 rpm, it smokes more than my father on a Saturday night!! Even when warmed up.
My brother in law and I used to ride down a very tight, twisty, hilly 12 mile trail through thick bush. He had a 1980 Kawasaki 250 KDX and I had a 1980 Suzuki PE. Both run on 20:1 pre-mix. Being in second place was very unpleasant. The smoke those things gave off at high rpms was enough to make you do something crazy to take the lead or fall way back.
Probably get royally flamed for this, I'm using 20:1 ratio (5 %), and using a good synthetic, I get low smoke once the engine is hot, and no carbon residues, nice and oily inside the engine.
20:1 is over the top with anything newer than 40 of 50 years old. Modern oils used in relatively modern engines can get the job done quite handily at 30 to 40:1 and even at 50:1.
I have an air cooled two cycle enduro race bike that requires 20:1. At 9000 rpm, it smokes more than my father on a Saturday night!! Even when warmed up.
My brother in law and I used to ride down a very tight, twisty, hilly 12 mile trail through thick bush. He had a 1980 Kawasaki 250 KDX and I had a 1980 Suzuki PE. Both run on 20:1 pre-mix. Being in second place was very unpleasant. The smoke those things gave off at high rpms was enough to make you do something crazy to take the lead or fall way back.
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