Good info. Thanks!
Small SUV needed; advice?
- Thread starter rstcso
- Start date
I don't understand what highway miles have to do with it. Our Rav4 Hybrid does at least 15% better than its gas-only counterpart in highway MPG. The EPA sticker says they're very close, but I've found that its easier to eek out better MPG with a hybrid than with a gas-only. This adds up. And the hybrid is better for acceleration, passing, and has a better automatic transmission, too. I can barely hear the gas engine cutting in and out as I drive the freeways.
Update - The daughter's driven the CR-V several days with no issues yet.
The shop replaced the VTEC solenoid. The symptom was somewhat intermittent, or I should say the car had to be driven 5-10 miles to know for sure it was fixed. I don't know what the other two "repairs" were prior to this. The car may have had other problems.
Our daughter's been using the same indy shop for many years and he's always treated her good. To my knowledge, this is the first time she's ever gone back multiple times because it wasn't repaired correctly. When I picked up the car last week, I asked the owner if he'd driven it for an extended period and he honestly said "No time!". I think he caters to a community that typically can't afford to take something to a dealer, and only fixes the bare minimum which is necessary to keep a car on the road relatively safely. He charged $95.
The shop replaced the VTEC solenoid. The symptom was somewhat intermittent, or I should say the car had to be driven 5-10 miles to know for sure it was fixed. I don't know what the other two "repairs" were prior to this. The car may have had other problems.
Our daughter's been using the same indy shop for many years and he's always treated her good. To my knowledge, this is the first time she's ever gone back multiple times because it wasn't repaired correctly. When I picked up the car last week, I asked the owner if he'd driven it for an extended period and he honestly said "No time!". I think he caters to a community that typically can't afford to take something to a dealer, and only fixes the bare minimum which is necessary to keep a car on the road relatively safely. He charged $95.
- Joined
- Oct 25, 2021
- Messages
- 2,233
Such as? And from where?
Maybe the CR-V still has life left in it and we don't need to buy her a car immediately. She loves her car and is reticent about replacing it at this time, even if we're paying for it. Our granddaughter is 14 and this was planned to be her car when she turned 16.
I'd love to get opinions on whether keeping the CR-V and spending money on new shocks/struts, which it desperately needs, makes sense to you. Or should we cut the loses and buy a new car? My understanding is the engine is a K24.
I priced KYB Strut-Plus for all four corners on Amazon and it will cost ~$750 for the parts including tax. I can replace them myself, maybe even having her or the granddaughter helping.
Thank you again for all who have contributed. Your opinions and collective wisdom are greatly appreciated.
I suspect that the CR-V was throwing a P2646 trouble code. This happens when the VTEC solenoid gasket screen gets clogged, restricting oil flow to the VTEC actuators. When this happens, the K24 engine won't rev above 3000 RPMs and will buck violently. Since the OEM VTEC solenoid assembly is ~$250 and aftermarket ones around $80, I suspect the mechanic only changed the $7 gasket/screen. $95 is a fair price for the part and 1/2 hour of labor. The video below shows repairing the problem on an Accord with the K24 engine.
@Nukeman7 You described exactly what was happening!
The owner showed me the new assembly on the car (left, backside of the engine when facing it) and offered the old one to me, handing it to me to inspect. I'm confident he replaced it.
She regularly takes her car to quick lube type places for oil changes, but who knows if it's actual being done.
This video was extremely helpful. After watching it, I need to start changing oil for her, teach her how to do it, and at a minimum, recognize when what she paid for was done or not. Would Amsoil SS 5w-30 be a good choice? I have a case of it already. Or stick to the 5w-20?
OP may not like this, but another option is the new Chevy Trax.
Yes, it’s a small turbo, BUT, I think on the 1.3L and 1.2L turbo engines, GM has got it right - there don’t seem to be any serious problems creeping up. Yes, early 1.4 turbos had problems, but I think GM learned from that, and their new small turbos are good.
Also, they have a conventional 6-speed automatic, seem to be fairly roomy, and are very inexpensive.
Yes, it’s a small turbo, BUT, I think on the 1.3L and 1.2L turbo engines, GM has got it right - there don’t seem to be any serious problems creeping up. Yes, early 1.4 turbos had problems, but I think GM learned from that, and their new small turbos are good.
Also, they have a conventional 6-speed automatic, seem to be fairly roomy, and are very inexpensive.
If the VTEC solenoid was actually replaced for only $95, you got away with highway robbery!
No telling what type of oil they did (or did not) use. If she continues to use quick lube places, I recommend the Valvoline Instant Oil Change centers. They appear to have stricter standards and better trained employees. If cost is a factor (and time is not), many WalMart automotive service centers do a decent job as they have zero incentive for up-selling services.
For a 2009 CR-V nearing 200,000 miles, the Amsoil SS would be overkill. YMMV, but I prefer to use 5W-30 Quaker State Full Synthetic in my Hondas. It's cost effective and the K24 runs quietly on it.
we had a 2009 CRV that was passed around the family until finally sold to our mechanic at 299,000 miles.
Any repairs on that CRV will be routine to any competent mechanic. (like failed A/C relay, suspension stuff, etc)
If some left field problem hits your CRV, you are really unlucky or the mechanic's diagnosis is wrong (IMO).
I say keep the CRV if she loves it so much....unless you want more airbags (CX5/CX50 is safer than an older CRV.)
Any repairs on that CRV will be routine to any competent mechanic. (like failed A/C relay, suspension stuff, etc)
If some left field problem hits your CRV, you are really unlucky or the mechanic's diagnosis is wrong (IMO).
I say keep the CRV if she loves it so much....unless you want more airbags (CX5/CX50 is safer than an older CRV.)
this may be relevant...Honda's supplier used soft metal for the lock cylinders during that era. If the key fob battery dies, replace it ASAP (1616 size i think).
Use the key to unlock the door too much, and the pins inside the cylinder lock will wear away and you won't be able to unlock the door with a key
Use the key to unlock the door too much, and the pins inside the cylinder lock will wear away and you won't be able to unlock the door with a key
Didn't know it was common but the drivers door on my son's crv has had the key issue in the driver's door since we got it.
if you need to "fidget" the key to make it turn/unlock, the cylinder is dying.
the cheapest stop-gap measure is to pull the lock out. (see youtube or driveaccord dot net).
upside: DIY or cheap at the mechanic;
downside: any flat metal object the size of a key can unlock the door
stopgap 2: for a cheap spare key, you can DIY program the remote keyfob in accessory mode using a blank, uncut key with fob from ebay and the fob learn procedure (see youtube or honda sites)
The issue is metal wear on both the key and the tumbler wafers in the lock cylinder. You can remove the cylinder from the door and get a locksmith to install new lock plate wafers or go watch the YouTube videos and do it yourself with this HON66 kit from Amazon. With the cylinder removed, you can read the Honda key code which is printed on the cylinder body. However, don't try this at home without fully understanding the procedure and associated risks.
Keep the car and spend the $1000 to fix struts especially if she has attachment . A replacement SUV costs 30x-35x .
edyvw
$50 site donor 2025
He does not get the basics wrong when it comes to Toyota/Lexus maintenance. He has very informative videos, although being succinct is not his strong suit. But hey, he is there to make money.
However, in an attempt to make more money, he ventures into things he does not understand. He is a mechanic, and his take on oils, for example, or fluids is just that mechanic thing, similar to "I ran oil between fingers, it is fine."
Then he went to review other cars, and his lack of understanding and knowledge became apparent. After all, he is certified Toyota tech, not IDK, Ineos. I get it, he needs new content to keep the business going. 99% of YouTube viewers won't pay attention to that. Here, yes, people will pay attention to it.
Thanks for the insight. I haven't even bothered to pull the lock out to see the issue. I just use the remote or passenger door lock
