small motors and a turbo = short life?

I don't think that replacing the turbo is necessarily all that hard, it what having the turbo does to the rest of the engine that is going to be an issue.
If the engine is built for a turbo, it shouldn't be a problem...
 
The only way to completely eliminate lag is by using a boost system that keeps the primary turbo on boost all the time. This is exactly what Mazda's Skyactive system does...
Sounds like our Tiguan, horrible high rpm power but snappy from light to light. They detuned it for a reason and the tractorish sound based on the modified engine cycle is oddly soothing.

 
Most of these turbo engines make full boost and torque at less than 1500rpm. Turbo lag died in the 90s.
Turbo lag on the 2014 2L Escape I just sold was cured with a free flowing cat-back exhaust system.
With turbo'd engines, it's important to keep the intake pressure higher than the exhaust pressure.

Last May I bought a 3.6L Acadia instead of a slightly cheaper 2L turbo for all of the same reasons posted.
Plus I didn't want a 0W20 engine. The power is ok, but the suspension sucks.
I like the new 4 cylinder 2.7L GM "truck" engine, but better it didn't have the elaborate cam positioning, cylinder deactivating
and stop-start "technology".
 
Sounds like our Tiguan, horrible high rpm power but snappy from light to light. They detuned it for a reason and the tractorish sound based on the modified engine cycle is oddly soothing.

We have the CX-9, but it seems to have excellent power everywhere. Its bottom end pulls hard enough that it doesn't need to rev much...but it certainly will if you want it to...
 
The 0-60 on a CRV is about 8 seconds pretty much the same as all the other similarly priced midsize SUVs. It is what it is.
The 1.5 turbo I drove could be timed with a sun dial...my CX-9 would tow it quicker than it can go on its own...
 
We have the CX-9, but it seems to have excellent power everywhere. Its bottom end pulls hard enough that it doesn't need to rev much...but it certainly will if you want it to...
The power is there with an ECU tweak but I imagine it was reduced for emissions more than anything. I mean getting 30MPG on the highway in an SUV isn't bad.
 
How long are most of the cheaply made engines suppose to last? Turbo's would be fine if it and all the rest was built correctly and from the correct materials. With all the various manufactures engine problems we've seen, that has to tell you something, about the state of engineering and manufacturing of ICE. Maybe its to help make EV look better? Don't know.
 
I ran a mildly tuned Mazdaspeed 3 from 2007 to 2015 for a total of 158k miles. UOA indicated that an OCI of 7.5k miles on M1 was, if anything, conservative. I only sold it because I wanted a RWD track toy. For me 150k-200k miles is the maximum distance I enjoy owning a car(my Club Sport and Wrangler excepted). Couple that with the fact that I’ve owned 6 turbo cars since 1993, and it should be obvious that I don’t suffer from forced induction phobia.
fun car, i did an engine swap in one. the 2.3 which is very similar to a ford duratech doesn't like being lugged. look up zoom zoom boom. the one I had the pleasure of working on was a ricer boy's and was definitely thrased hard. put a new engine and big turbo in it. that was last year. car had 150,000 miles on it when I had it. we told him to drive it gently and it would last longer. im guessing you didn't constantly go WOT off of idle with your Mazdaspeed. im pretty sure maintenance is mostly what kills turbo 4bangers, along with running them hard before they're warm or short tripping them.
 
Got over 170K miles on my 2004 WRX (with the 2.0), and I haven’t treated the engine particularly well. It needs some suspension work, but the original engine and turbo haven’t had any issues. If there were I think I’d have seen a trouble code by now. I was kind of worried about turbo longevity when I got it. But I was told that turbo rebuilds were fairly cheap and that the water cooling helped immensely. I didn’t always wait for a cooldown period, as I was told a thermal siphon would draw heat from the bearing housing to prevent coking.
 
Nice have you had any repair bills?
A few, but nothing major. Most expensive repair was the exhaust system (the cat alone was $600). Next expensive was probably replacing the hydraulic lines between the tranny and radiator (those had to come from Toyota, and just the lines with the fittings were $400+). The rest has been relatively inexpensive stuff like a radiator (aftermarket), alternator, wheel bearings, 1 window regulator, valve cover gasket, and having a sealant put in the A/C system and recharged. It still has original tranny, water pump, all engine internals, springs and struts, and CV joints...and everything still works on the car...I'm just gonna keep driving it until it dies...
 
Motor oil has advanced by leaps & bounds since the old turbo days, as have inter cooling, cooldown timers, etc. I wouldn’t automatically discount a turbo engine’s longevity! Now, a CVT and GDI, those are a different story…
What manufacturer is making a turbo engine without GDI these days?
 
I don't care what anybody says, you add a turbo....more complexity and more likely to break down. Now you add the engine being smaller displacement AND turbo'd.....more stress on the mechanicals. Nope, won't last as long. Throw all thje modern engine oils at it you want.....won't make the motor go 295K miles.
Ya this honda has maybe 5k left if it's lucky

Honestly turbos today aren't the crappy 80's turbo systems.

300k is no problem on a maintained small engine turbo vehicle.
 
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