Small engine maintenance information

Joined
Jan 23, 2019
Messages
145
Location
MA
Hi Guys,

For the first time in my life I need to know how to maintain a "small engine" (lawn mower, snowblower, generator, etc.) I'm familiar with auto engine maintenance items.

Is their anything different with small engines? I tend to keep things until it's not practical to source spare parts, so I'm generally interested and capable of doing all normal maintenance items. What information should I consume to become familiar with small engine maintenance?

Thanks,

-kehyler
 
If it's in order then congratulations on a new home (if push mower). I've learned that with these little engines they're overly simple in operation and yet overly abused with lacking maintenance.

They live in the dirt so keep the air cleaner clean (if a washable and oiled foam) or replaced annually if a paper filter. Check the oil before each use!! Some use oil and some don't so you don't want to find out the hard way if yours is a oil burner. They only hold about 20 ounces of oil so there's not a lot to lose.

Keep the fuel fresh. Don't fill it once and then let that batch of fuel stay with the mower for life. Just make it a point to use fresh fuel and drain the tank occasionally to get the grass clippings and bugs out. Did I mention to always use fresh fuel?

Keep your blade sharp. I sharpen my push mower blade like I sharpen my chainsaw chain... OFTEN! You should tip the mower up and remove the blade a couple of times a season and put a nice, sharp edge on the blade. Clean the accumulated grass clipping out from under the mower while you have it up on blocks. That grass holds moisture and over time it WILL cause the deck to rust through. Just go under there a few times a season and clean it out.

And change the oil periodically. I won't say annually but at least every few years you should drain it and refill with a fresh 20 ounces. I personally stick to SAE 30 oil but newer engines can recommend something different. Even when they do recommend something different I still use SAE 30. It's what Fred Flintstone used in his push mower and his is still mowing someplace in Bedrock.

If you have a Briggs & Stratton engine then record these numbers on a cassette and put it on indefinite playback while you sleep so you can subliminally and osmosisly absorb and commit to memory the information: (1) Engine Model number (2) Engine Type (3) Engine code. You'll find this information incredibly handy when you order parts or want to look up some technical fact about your little engine. You might find that they want the head removed every 100 hours to scrub out the carbon build-up or some other crazy idea. It just makes for fun reading PLUS it might help you sleep better at night (if your wife snores).

OK, enough silliness. Let us know what you buy and we'll know more about what to talk about.
 
Well, I guess some details might help. I've got a Honda GX270 OHV in a tracked snowblower, a Kawasaki® FX691V 22 hp and
two Hydro-Gear ZT-3400s in a stand on lawn mower.

Anything specific?
 
Well, I guess some details might help. I've got a Honda GX270 OHV in a tracked snowblower, a Kawasaki® FX691V 22 hp and
two Hydro-Gear ZT-3400s in a stand on lawn mower.

Anything specific?
My push mower got fresh oil every season, a blade every other, plug and filter when it was absolutely necessary. Would blow it off with blower after each use. Scraped mower deck every couple of mows.

Snow blower fresh oil, greased transmission gears and all linkages. Pulled shear pins squirted white lithium in the pin holes. I would pull the wheels and keep a light coating of grease on the axles. Spark plug when neccessary. One thing when you grease axles and gears make sure none gets on the friction disc, I always would give a wipe down with a clean rag and gasoline. Most importantly have fresh gas prepped with stabil.
 
Well, I guess some details might help. I've got a Honda GX270 OHV in a tracked snowblower, a Kawasaki® FX691V 22 hp and
two Hydro-Gear ZT-3400s in a stand on lawn mower.

Anything specific?
My stander has 3400s and I’ve found M1 15w50 gives the best feel. I change the fluid and filter when they start to get noisy. The GX and the Kawasaki should both be dead reliable with basic maintenance.
 
If it's in order then congratulations on a new home ...
Thank you! Been an eye opener.

...
Keep your blade sharp. I sharpen my push mower blade like I sharpen my chainsaw chain... OFTEN! You should tip the mower up and remove the blade a couple of times a season and put a nice, sharp edge on the blade. Clean the accumulated grass clipping out from under the mower while you have it up on blocks. That grass holds moisture and over time it WILL cause the deck to rust through. Just go under there a few times a season and clean it out.
...

Well, I do have a chainsaw and a 48'' deck on my stand on lawnmower. I know how to sharpen neither! Mind if I ask how you do it?
 
Dremel chainsaw sharpener attachment and an American Sharpener brand lawn mower blade sharpener. Though the last item is overkill, it's possible to freehand with an angle grinder.

Would recommend the angle grinder or bench grinder. Lesser options won't have the grunt to get through a badly dulled lawn mower blade.
 
For my chainsaw chain I use a 7/32 file and just keep a sharp edge on the biting side of the cutter. I do this throughout the cutting season and since chains are so cheap I just buy a new one annually. I don't fool with filing down the depth gauge.

For my mower blades I use a bench grinder to keep the cutting edge straight and sharp. I have one of those cheapy balance cones to use to keep the balance at least partially equal.
 
Dremel chainsaw sharpener attachment and an American Sharpener brand lawn mower blade sharpener. Though the last item is overkill, it's possible to freehand with an angle grinder.

Would recommend the angle grinder or bench grinder. Lesser options won't have the grunt to get through a badly dulled lawn mower blade.

These?

https://www.dremel.com/gn/en/p/dremel-chainsaw-sharpening-attachment-1453-v227

American Sharpener brand lawn mower blade sharpener

I do have an angle grinder. To sharpen a lawn mower blade, use some kind of sandpaper wheel on the angle grinder?
 
For my chainsaw chain I use a 7/32 file and just keep a sharp edge on the biting side of the cutter. I do this throughout the cutting season and since chains are so cheap I just buy a new one annually. I don't fool with filing down the depth gauge.
...
Like, do you just use the file in and out of each link to keep edge pretty sharp? Sorry for the basic question, I've never sharpened one before...

...
For my mower blades I use a bench grinder to keep the cutting edge straight and sharp. I have one of those cheapy balance cones to use to keep the balance at least partially equal.

Well, keeping the blades in balance is new to me. Any words or product advice?
 
All of this equipment if available from Lowe's or Home Depot.
file.jpeg
balancer.jpg
 
These?

https://www.dremel.com/gn/en/p/dremel-chainsaw-sharpening-attachment-1453-v227

American Sharpener brand lawn mower blade sharpener

I do have an angle grinder. To sharpen a lawn mower blade, use some kind of sandpaper wheel on the angle grinder?
Exactly. Dremel makes a set with a mower blade jig as well as the chainsaw attachment but I find it underpowered for 3 blade sharpening.

Get a sandpaper flap disc for the grinder. Far better sharpening performance than a grinding wheel. The American sharpener is overkill but you feel like a pro when you use it. I sharpen my blades once or twice a season so it seems some use.

I use a simple triangular device for balancing but it is minimally useful. Would only indicate the worst out of balance condition.
 
Like, do you just use the file in and out of each link to keep edge pretty sharp? Sorry for the basic question, I've never sharpened one before...



Well, keeping the blades in balance is new to me. Any words or product advice?
Balancing really isn't a huge deal. If you start with new blades and are careful to sharpen evenly not a big issue. When a chunk comes out of one side and you grind it down ... That's when issues can start.
 
Like, do you just use the file in and out of each link to keep edge pretty sharp? Sorry for the basic question, I've never sharpened one before...



Well, keeping the blades in balance is new to me. Any words or product advice?
Read up on chainsaw sharpening. Only file one way to prevent damaging the file.

Unless you want to become an woodsman, filing by hand can mess up a chain of you don't know what you're doing. A jig of one type of another is helpful.

Problem is, a chain can be d damaged instantly by hitting a rock, and that's super common as you're learning. A file won't return significantly dull chains back to service. That's where the dremel is awesome.

When you get a new chain on the saw, remember how well it cuts. It should always cut that well ... If it doesnt, sharpen early and often. At least each tank of gas. Forcing a dull chain through wood causes many issues. Most inexperienced operators get used to running a dull chain.
 
Still using my John Deere Js25 from 2008.

I change the oil once a year (Home depot house brand SAE30 oil), and probably air filter twice a year. Purchased an oem Deere blade on ebay for 20 bucks the other day. Thing runs like new , self propelled, works great.

Does not burn a drop of oil. Every couple years i replace the spark plug with a champion if it needs it or not.

Towards the end of the season I put some tru fuel in it, and it sits in storage with tru fuel.

Mowing season it gets shell 87 gas. Nothing special.
 
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